I have cut out a cardbroad baffle for your consideration. It was taped in place and trial fitted and seems to clear going on and off. The black spray painted spot on the bottom is the pickup location. I plan to cross break the baffle as shown to help with oil return. Then tack weld it in all around the edges. The oil pan is already at the bottom of the K-member so I decided not to add to the bottom of the pan, as I feel I just don't really need it.
Does anyone see an fundumetal design flaws here?


http://tinyurl.com/3yulgk

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Looks pretty goood. But it also needs a drain hole at the back, not a big one so that the oil can not just get out of it, but one that will let the oil from the pan drain down into the covered section.


Looking at the picture this would be at the left side, inline with the ruler, at the back of the cardboard.


Jess

I agree with Jess. Looks pretty good and needs some smallish drainback holes. I did not weld the baffle in all the way to the sump edges, and punched a few 3/8" holes in various places. I would also make the baffle on the driver side (top of your pic) start higher up where the stock pan joins the sump, and slope downward to aid drainback. I did not baffle as much toward the rear as you did, also so drainback is better. Too much coverage will be especially bad with a stock capacity pan.

When you are done, make sure when you tilt the pan at 45 deg to the ground (back down, front up, simulating acceleration), that the pickup would still be covered with oil, assuming the oil will be just below the baffle level. Personally, I would lower the sump 3/4" and widen a bit, but that is not absolutely necessary for drag use.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

So what your saying is move the driverside edge up to the GREEN line, which would require a break line in RED. Drill a 3/8to1/2" hole at the rear of the baffle. BLUE DOT. The PINK lines would be the new layout.

The blue hole. I would think that if oil drains down this hole it would shoot out on accel.
How much oil are we pumping here? Do you think it pumps 3 quarts in 15 seconds?
http://tinyurl.com/yt28or

Or maybe install somesort of a hinged door under the rear back 1/4. The door would hang down and on accel it would slam shut, with help from G-forces and the oil tring to get out.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

There are different baffle designs depending on useage. That design looks OK if you are going road racing. One drawback to it is it creates a lager shelf to hold oil close to the crank creating windage. You could get by with just a 1.5-2" wide strip in the rear and a 1-1.5" the front. This will allow oil to drain into the sump faster and away from the spinning crank. Not only does windage create HP loss thru drag, it airates the oil making it less efficent. If you want it to be a bit better, weld in a section of diamond cut scapper screen between the two baffles with just a hole in it big enough to get the PU in.
Hinged baffles would not work in you pan, the sump just isn't big enough for one. They are usually on large sump pans or pans that have a sump for the entire length of the pan (the ideal pan).
I'm with the others on making it deeper. Helps keep oil away from the crank. Go 2", this will allow 2 more qts and also lower the oil 1/2" further from the 'blender', or add just 1 extra qt to lower the oil 1 1/4". If you deepen it, bolt the pan to a spare block when welding to help keep the warping to a minimum. Then weld a skid plate to the bottom of you K member.

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Slant Cecil

What is diamond cut scapper screen?

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

It's like expanded metal. Here's some from Moroso.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku
It's hard to tell how fine the mesh is in their illustration. To cover part of a sump, I would want to be sure it's not going to restrict oil drainback.

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Slant Cecil

Looks better, esp on the top side. I agree with Charlie that that big of a shelf in the back is not needed. If these are angled down some, I don't think the baffles will hold oil near the crank, though. As Charlie said, depth allows you to keep the oil further down away from the crank.

I drilled/punched 3 X 3/8" holes about 1-2" in front of the rear end of the rear baffle, equally spaced across the baffle. Not right at the back like you have drawn, although a little space between the baffle and sump edge is probably good. Oil will not empty out of there immediately since it is viscous.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Bren, could you possibly draw a 1" grid pattern on that template? And/or possibly scan it in final form? That way, it could serve as a template for others.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

I misplaced the template. I think I left it at the weld shop.

I changed the design completely, kind of.
http://tinyurl.com/yveq2h A little surface rust has started in one day.
http://tinyurl.com/2cwddj another view

One thing to remember is to grind out or knock off all welding splatter.

It is already installed, so no changes will be made, but you suggestions are wecome as it may help others.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Bren,

Looks nice, and should solve your problem. I hope you made sure the pickup was positioned a little toward the rear and it was just touching the bottom of the pan. Let us know how it tests out!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988