Slant Six Forum :: best caliper location front or rear

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best caliper location front or rear https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27290	Page 1 of 1

Author:	oklahoma joe [ Tue Feb 19, 2008 4:09 pm ]
Post subject:	best caliper location front or rear
I have a 1964 A body (barracuda) that I am going to be converting to disk brakes as I rebuild the car. I have assembled all the necisary parts from 73 -76 sources. I have been reading the different info on the net about this conversion and have decided to go with the b body spindles, 73- 76 upper control arms, and the slider type calipers. (mostly due to cost) I have been using the info. on the big block dart website that departs from the other information about the ability to use the taller spindles from the b bodies instead of the shorter a bodies. On the big block dart site it states that the b body spindles can be switched side to side to place the calipers at the front or the rear of the splindle. What I would like to know is were is the best location for the calipers front or rear? I am planning to use a aftermarket sway bar that attaches to the shock bolt on the lower control arm. I am also interested in how the flexible brake lines should run to prevent rubbing and would front or rear be best for routing the hoses? and has anybody out there put the B body spindles on a A body? Thanks Joe [/img]

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Tue Feb 19, 2008 5:19 pm ]
Post subject:
Performance is the same no matter where the calipers are mounted, so pick the mount position that makes everything work easiest with respect to fit, non-interference with other undercar components, and ease of bleeding.

Author:	slantvaliant [ Tue Feb 19, 2008 6:18 pm ]
Post subject:
I used '74 Duster knuckles and 10.87" disks, swapped to put the Volare slider calipers to the rear on my '64 Valiant. (How many different cars can I get involved in this?) A swaybar was and is in the plan, and I hoped to avoid interference. Having read a couple of articles on the knuckle issue, and having seen the numbers, I wouldn't be afraid of BFMJ's on an A-body. I just used the UCA's and knuckles from the same car. It took some thinking, trying, and tinkering to get the hoses (Volare, again) where they wouldn't rub. The hose bracket is different, requiring some filing/grinding to work. Pay attention to how you clock it - it can make a lot of difference. I'm still not completely satisifed with my brakes, but they are much better than the 9X2 drums the car came with.

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