I'll vouch for the washer method!

http://s62.photobucket.com/albums/h93/H ... emoval.jpg

Works slick! Pressed it right out.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

That's what I'll be doing as well. With any luck, I'll be able to get my hands on an extra pair of LCAs so I can clean, beef up, powdercoat and rebuild them and then just swap the old ones out for new "new" ones on my car. Kinda help to minimise the necessary lift time, y'know...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Good Plan! My car will have a solid week up on stands for this evolution.

Every bushing & Ball Joint is new now. All the interuptions, like going to work, sleeping, and eating cut into serious car time!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

No Doubt

Yeah I'm planning to do my suspension in phases (new leaf springs in one session, new LCAs in the next, then new torsion bars, new shocks in the next, and installing the new polygraphite busshings as I go), and then attack the brakes all at once, which I should be able to do in my driveway (which will give me an excuse to buy some jackstands). I have to pay by the hour for lift time at the auto shop on base. Even though it's a nice frame lift, it still gets pricey.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Out of curiosity, what sort of $$$ do they charge per hour?

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IIRC it's $4.50 per hour for a lift stall (there's either drive-on or a frame lift) and $3.50 or $4.00 for a flat stall. Not bad, but if you've got alot of time in the air, it adds up quick.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

You'd definitely want to plan your work so that you could drive it in, do the work and drive it out. You wouldn't want to get half way through and have to make a parts run.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I saw the pic; but what is the "washer method"?

You washer and wire brusher first.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

No doubt. Back when I used to live on base I could just walk home, leave it there overnight, then walk back when they open up in the morning. It wasn't even a 100 yard stroll

Luckily, they don't charge you if your vehicle is there overnight. Only for the time it's there while they're open. And one of the guys who works there lets me use his car is I have ot make a NAPA run in the middle of a job. Thinking about it makes me really wish I was home so I could start working on my Duster some more...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

if you are needing some lca's to swap I have some we could work something out. They came from mostly 62-66 abody's no sway bar tabs-- but spares-- it would be very cheap-- you pay shipping & send me your old ones when done. Lawrence

The Washer Trick:

Get yourself a nice thick washer that is -almost- as large a diameter as the outer steel shell of the bushing. Put it over the opening of the bushing.

Weld the washer to the bushing shell. Be careful not to weld it to the Torsion bar mount!

Weld the washer all the way around. Get good penetration. I did it with .030 L56 wire in C25 gas, set for 16 Guage, but a touch on the low side for wire speed. (3 F on my PM 180C Lincoln.)

Turn the LCA over and put your tool of choice for the press thru the Torsion bar hex, and down onto the washer. I used a chunk of pipe nipple about seven inches long almost as big as the hole. Press the outer shell out of the Torsion bar mount.

It took just slightly less time to write this than to "Do it." The welder was already set up, and I type pretty fast. (Not counting the time to take my hood apart to clean the lens and setting the press table to an appropriate height.)

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/tips ... to_01.html



CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Thanks for the offer, but I need a pair that can acommodate a sway bar. I'll be installing a larger diameter front sway bar when I redo my front suspension.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

You don't need tabbed lower control arms to run a front sway bar.
http://www.firmfeel.com/swaybars_a.htm

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Joshua