I picked up my block from the machine shop last week and got around to giving it a final cleaning today. While doing so I noticed there may be a problem with the bore job(.060). The bottom of one of the bores has a taper were it looks like the cutter took off a little extra material on one side. *!%?*@*!!! It has a gouge starting at the bottom of the bore and extending about 1/4" up the bore and is about 1/16" deep and then tapers to the correct dimension within 5/8" from the bottom of the bore when you hold a straight edge on the side of the bore. The material is removed from the cam side of the bore.
It looks like the cutting head was loose or the block moved while they were machining that last little bit. I real do not know just guessing? Other than that It looks to be ok. I am a little worried the piston may slap at the end of it travel, but this area may not be super important either I just don't know.

I need to know if this is going to cause any problems or is it not a big deal? Its just going to be a daily driver type engine, but I want it to be reliable. I would hate to go strangle a machinist if its not something to worry about. God, I spent alot of time cleaning that block before I took in.

Joe

Will the piston even cross this area? Your talking about the bore crank side right?

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

I think the skirt will just touch it. it is on the Cam shaft side by the oil pump. I need to set the crank and a piston with no rings in to see for sure.

Point it out to the machine shop and see what they say.

It is not ,in any way, your fault

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I agree, be sure to show it to the shop so "they know that you know..."
Do your checks first, if the piston never gets to that part of the bore, it's a 'no brainer', if the bottom of the skirt hits that spot, just be sure it won't 'catch an edge' and break the skirt.
Most of the thrust load is up focused on the broad section of the skirt.

If you pan your discussion right with the shop, you can 'do them a favor' by using something they messed-up... can they do a favor for you in return? Do you need anything they can provide? (outside of machine work, that they can't be trusted with)
DD

I'd make sure the machine shop sees it, but if it is not in ring travel I would run it.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I add some picture at this address if you are intreseted. In seeing defect.

http://www.facebook.com/editphoto.php?a ... 1102523308

Thanks for the information Joe

you have to login to see the picture.............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

may be try this one. hope it works new to this posting pictures on different web site stuff. trying to figure it out.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2 ... 3308&saved

Joe

It still wants a log-in...

I have a facebook account, and if you put them on there I'll be happy to rehost them for everyone else to be able to see. You may have to invite me, you can use my name Ross Pulliam in Lawrence, KS to find me and add me as a friend to view your album.

lets try this


http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii13 ... IM1751.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii13 ... IM1754.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii13 ... -07020.jpg

from the first pic i see what looks like a different angle past the line. which could be the different size of the wall.

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1976 Plymouth Feather Duster
2002 Dodge Dakota 4.7l v8

better picture

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii13 ... IM1750.jpg

The pistons are usually .18" or so down the block.

The stroke is 4.125", so get a piston (no rings) and push it down 4.3-4.4" and see if any part of it goes down that far.

If not, no problem.

If it does, see if it wobbles at all down that far (compare to another bore)
and post another picture of how far it sticks out if you're not sure.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes