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A Hare-Brained Scheme
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Author:  dakight [ Mon Mar 03, 2008 7:13 pm ]
Post subject:  A Hare-Brained Scheme
Here's my dilemma. I posted about this in "parts wanted" but I think my chances of finding the original part are slim and none so I came up with this flash of brilliance :idea: :?: while browsing the McMaster Carr website.

My steering column is 2" inside diameter and the shaft is 3/4". The lower column seal is shot, kaput, finis. McMaster Carr has a double sealed ball bearing that is 2" outside diameter for a 3/4" shaft and it has a 2 1/8" flange on one side. My thought is to pick up this bearing for about $12.00 plus shipping and use it in place of the lower seal. I would have to fabricate some kind of retainer but I should be able to slide it inside the lower end of the column and secure it with some kind of ring then slide the shaft up though it and reassemble the column.

My other option is to buy a repop seal and bearing for a later model and adapt it to fit. At $82.95 for the repop piece I'm inclined to go the other way.

Thoughts anyone?
Author:  Joshie225 [ Mon Mar 03, 2008 7:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
If you put two or three small cuts the length of the bearing at the bottom of the column you could use a clamp around the outside of the column to secure the bearing.

Lining up the steering column with the steering box will become more critical in theory, but in practice may not be an issue. I'd give it a try.
Author:  sandy in BC [ Mon Mar 03, 2008 7:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ditto.....my kinda fix
Author:  ceej [ Mon Mar 03, 2008 8:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hey David!

Cool Idea. What precise dimension is the I.D. of the bearing, and what is the exact diameter of the shaft? Do you have clearance to put these together?
If they are the same, you will have to measure where the bearing will ride, clearance the bearing and have it pressed on like an axle bearing.

Coupled with Josh's idea it could work very well. It wouldn't allow too much missalignment as previously suggested.

How about an old Ball Joint seal that's in good shape? Maybe just get a new one. Grease the I.D. to slide the shaft through. The outside should go over the end of the column.

An old strut rod rubber is 3/4" ID as well. The outside is a bit big, but once lined up, just give it a couple whacks with a hammer to mark it, then cut it a tad large and press it up in.
I've got several of those if you want to play with one. Free even.

CJ
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
An old strut rod rubber is 3/4" ID as well. The outside is a bit big, but once lined up, just give it a couple whacks with a hammer to mark it, then cut it a tad large and press it up in.
Now that there's an interesting idea. I think I'd probably ream it out just a little bit large, polish the shaft in that area as necessary, and fill the gap between shaft and bushing with silicone grease. That would seal the junction while still permitting some sideplay.
Author:  dakight [ Tue Mar 04, 2008 9:36 am ]
Post subject: 
I think I have some old strut rod bushings. That just might work out. I'll check it out and see what it looks like. My other thought was to get some 3/4" thick polyethelene and cut a plug then drill the center out. The plug could be held in place by drilling a couple of holes through the tube then putting some screws through, into the plug. There isn't a lot of wear in that area. The factory seal was just a rubber cup with a nylon bushing in the center. Of the 3 that I have, none are worn out but the rubber is brittle and crumbling.
Author:  volaredon [ Tue Mar 04, 2008 9:44 am ]
Post subject: 
Got a place like Berry Bearing/Motion Industries in your area? That would be the 1st place I would go, there you could look at the catalogs on the counter and the ones by me, I have yet to go into, andNOT see a dial caliper on the back ledge behind the counter you could play with while there to help assure that what you get will fit your app. Ive seen similar bearings with a snap ring groove cut into their outer race; here's your retainer! Beats ordering something out of a catalog and then not working. The local guy would probably be better to deal with as far as a return, should it not work, too.
Author:  dakight [ Tue Mar 04, 2008 9:50 am ]
Post subject: 
I've never heard of them but I'll certainly check it out. Thanks for the tip.
Author:  Dart270 [ Tue Mar 04, 2008 11:26 am ]
Post subject: 
Great idea. I need to do this on my 64 Dart too... Please post the Mcmaster part number if you think of it.

Lou
Author:  dakight [ Tue Mar 04, 2008 3:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
The bearing I'm looking at is part number 638K371. I think some careful measurement of the shaft is in order as that would be the most difficult part to fit correctly. I measured with a dial caliper as I don't have a real micrometer. I figured at $12.24 plus shipping and handling it might be worth the gamble. Ideally it would be a slightly snug slip-fit in the end of the tube then a bead of RTV would hold it in place, or a clamp around the outside of the tube.
Author:  emsvitil [ Tue Mar 04, 2008 3:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
If you're ordering from McMaster-Carr, figure out what else that's usefull too.............
Author:  dakight [ Tue Mar 04, 2008 5:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
I went out and did some measuring and here is what I came up with:

The ID of the tube varies between 2.010 and 2.020 inches; a slot and a worm gear hose clamp will easily work there to secure the bearing. I think it might be just a little loose for the silicone method. I could use automotive urethane but I'm afraid it might be too aggressive and make it overly difficult to remove if it were ever required.

The diameter of the shaft is 0.747 +- .001. The area where the top bearing rides has been knurled and is dead on at 0.750. The spec on the bearing from McMaster is 0.750 + .001 to + .005. It looks like it will be a loose fit on the shaft unless the shaft is knurled. I'm not sure that it would matter since there isn't a large radial load in that area but i just don't know for sure. A film of silicone ( RTV ) might be sufficient to take up the space and seal the shaft to the inner race.
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