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| Hard Starting Truck https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27857 |
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| Author: | nate_o [ Sat Mar 15, 2008 6:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Hard Starting Truck |
I am thinking about resurrecting my 81 D150. One of the reasons I parked it before was that it was such a PITA to start. It ran fine once started but it was a such a pain to get it started. Usually I had to pump it a lot or even poor some fuel down the carb. I am thinking this is a carb issue ( it currently has a alum. 1 bbl intake and 1 bbl carb). If I do ressurect this truck I will do the 2bbl swap so if it is the carb, that problem should be eliminated. My question is this... is there anything else that could be causing my hard start issues?? I want to be absolutely certain that the carb is the issue before I start changing things. Thanks. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sat Mar 15, 2008 7:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The carb may be causing a part of the problem, but if you're getting no fuel to the carb despite extended cranking, there's probably a problem with the fuel supply system. Leaky valves in the fuel pump will let the fuel drain from the carb all the way back to the tank every time the engine is stopped. And any small air leak in the fuel line between the tank and the pump inlet will let the fuel drain from the pump back to the tank. Combine one or both of these problems with maybe a weak fuel pump or worn pump eccentric on the camshaft, throw in maybe some carburetor boiling and/or choke problems, and it's going to be hard to start! Fortunately, these are not terribly difficult problems to solve, and diagnosis is easy. |
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| Author: | nate_o [ Sat Mar 15, 2008 8:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Shouldnt be a choke problem since I converted it to manual choke and it does work. Should I disconnect the fuel line and crank it into a jar to see how much fuel I am getting from the pump?? If so for how long? and how much fuel should be in the jar when I am done? Thanks. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sat Mar 15, 2008 8:36 pm ] |
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When you do this, be very careful. Use a properly-connected remote starter switch or a careful assistant to crank the engine; do not arc across the starter terminals with a screwdriver or do anything else that will create a spark in the engine compartment — you are working with open gasoline. First let's worry about fuel delivery itself. After the truck has sat overnight, disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor inlet and direct it securely into a large jar or can. Crank the engine with the ignition disabled. You should get strong fuel delivery almost immediately upon beginning to crank. If not, note how long it takes to begin, and note whether the stream is free or seems restricted. |
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| Author: | Truckman [ Sun Mar 16, 2008 7:01 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
It would be safer to connect a rubber line, long enough to extend outside of the engine compartment to a container on the ground. |
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| Author: | dakight [ Sun Mar 16, 2008 7:13 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'd strongly recommend a large can such as a coffee can rather than a glass jar. |
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| Author: | Rick [ Wed Mar 19, 2008 5:49 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I use disposable soda bottles. They wont shatter like glass, wont conduct like metal, have a small opening for better fuel containment and they are free. |
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| Author: | 66aCUDA [ Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
2 liter bottle( rinsed out good and dried) and a Friend with the remote start switch. Use a clear bottle so you can see what the pump is pumping up from the tank as this will help with the daignosis. If it takes more than a second to start getting a good pump of gas in the bottle, then as others have said Fuel delivery system problems Frank |
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| Author: | nate_o [ Wed Mar 26, 2008 3:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ok finally got a chance to run the fuel test. It took about 4-5 secs before any fuel came out. It came out in a strong but pulsing stream. Does the long wait mean I might have a drainback problem??? |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Mar 26, 2008 4:15 pm ] |
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Yup, definitely a drainback problem at work here. Find and fix it. Fuel pump (probably easiest just to replace it), and check the fuel tank-to-pump hard and flex lines. Interesting you should post this just now. I just picked up a 1982 Chrysler Corp publication listing all the recalls for '76-'82 vehicles, and one of them is for '81 Dodge trucks with 225 engine and Electronic Spark Advance/Lean Burn. The condition causing the recall is extremely hard starting with extended crank time with a cold engine. The fix is to install a 100-ohm resistor in series with the engine coolant temperature sensor. Not the sender that drives the dashboard engine temp gauge, but the sensor that tells the computer how warm/cold the engine is. If I had time right now, I'd scan in the line drawing showing where it is, but I don't. Can you find it on your own? If so, check for a short jumper/extension wire between the sensor and the wire leading into the master wiring harness. The jumper/extension wire was a resistance wire, and was the factory's fix for the situation. It's possible your truck never had the fix done, or perhaps along the line someone saw the extension wire and discarded it thinking it was somebody's backyard hack (it was...Chrysler's!) |
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| Author: | nate_o [ Wed Mar 26, 2008 5:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks Dan I will get a new fuel pump and do some more checking of the fuel lines. Thanks for the Lean Burn info too although my truck no longer has it installed. I replaced the lean burn dizzy with a regular one and used a chevy HEI module to fire it. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Wed Mar 26, 2008 7:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
nate_o, When you do the carb/manifold swap can I have your old alum manifold? Thanks, |
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