Has anyone switched there a/c over to r134? How much did it cost? The reason I ask is because im going to switch over from r12 and would like to have a ballpark range of prices because I have no clue about a/c costs and dont want to be jipped by the a/c place.

_________________
Ronnie
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2714941

Doing an R134a conversion right so the system works well and doesn't die early is a great deal more involved than flushing out the R12 and running-in the R134a with some new oil. Is there some particular reason why you're converting? It's best not to proceed with a retrofit until you've read up on it specifically as it relates to our old cars. Just dumping in one of those $20 or $30 "retrofit kits" from the parts store will result in poor system performance and early/expensive system damage. The topic has been discussed at great length on this site, see Here, Here, Here, Here, and Here.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Also, check into any local colleges that have automotive programs, you may be able to get your A/C swapped over at an extremely reasonable charge if you don't mind students working on it (under teacher supervision of course).
I just finished my A/C systems class; the last job I did was a retrofit, and I'm glad I got the chance to while still in school so I could make sure I was doing everything right.

_________________
<i>D'Artagnan</i>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v432/stephaniexchaos/dart/th_IMG_0326_zpsumhhfxi0.jpg">

my ac class was fun... and the machines we had we very simple and almost impossible to do any damage. but relating to the thread... yes you do want to get all the oil collected/flushed/swapped for maybe some sorta generic oil... spacing on names

_________________
'72 Valiant DD for over a decade-225-Disc brakes, big T-bars, big Sway bars f/r, carter bbd/super six, GM HEI, 2- 12" subs in trunk, 1000w amp...
'77 cherokee cheif widetrack-360-33x12.5 tires-no lift. keeps driveway dry-project/backup DD/mudder

POE (ester) oil is what works with both R12 and R134A, and is probably what will be used when your system is retrofitted. The mineral oil that was used in your system isn't compatible with R134A and will just sit there rather than get carried by the refrigerant, leading to some really interesting and bad consequences.
What's the state of your A/C system now? Is it hooked up or dismantled, if together is it leaking or does it work well?
You're going to have to replace the seals in the system because the older seals aren't compatible with R134A and will fail if they're not replaced. Depending on what kind of system you have and what condition it's in, other components will most likely have to be replaced, although which ones I couldn't really say not knowing much about your system.
And about the machines.. the newer style machines a trained monkey could use.. it's nice and not so nice at the same time.. explains a lot of the hacks at chain stores like Les Schwab and Pep Boys and what not though.

_________________
<i>D'Artagnan</i>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v432/stephaniexchaos/dart/th_IMG_0326_zpsumhhfxi0.jpg">

It needs recharged. And I figured I would switch to r134 because its a lot cheaper and easier to get than r12. If any of you know a place with cheap r12 then I dont mind keeping it r12.

_________________
Ronnie
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2714941

If it just needs to be recharged then you might have a leak somewhere that needs fixing. A/C systems should be completely closed systems, without needing recharge if they haven't been leaking even years on down the line, and assuming they've been worked on properly.
I don't know of any suppliers off the top of my head - my school has their own supply that they've collected over time from various sources. R12 AFAK is actually only supposed to be supplied in shops and schools now, you can't get it from any stores or anything, unless they're selling it illegally. In which case, the R12 probably won't be cheap anyway.
Like I said, if you're looking for a cost-friendly way to get it swapped, or even just recharged, look into any local automotive degree programs that you may have in the area. For my school, for the retrofit all you'd have to pay for is parts for the retrofit, R134A (or R12 if just recharging), and a small labor charge (I think it's about $20, maybe a little less).
I would really urge you to get the system checked out since it needs recharge, especially because if there is a leak, recharging it periodically will take bites out of your wallet bigger than the chunk it would cost to retrofit it and make sure the system is still sealed.

_________________
<i>D'Artagnan</i>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v432/stephaniexchaos/dart/th_IMG_0326_zpsumhhfxi0.jpg">

R-290



CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Shhh... new refrigerants hurt my brain...
Who had the bright idea of, hey, let's mix propane with some other stuff and throw in A/C systems that are wrapped around hot engines and call it refrigerant, and jack up the pressures in the lines to absurdly high amounts so we can go: Oh look, pinhole leak! Oh dear, there's another hole through my hand.
And not to mention all the wonderful ways that propane and R12 that has absorbed a bit of copper interact..
They need to make an emoticon where the little smiley is banging its head against the wall.

_________________
<i>D'Artagnan</i>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v432/stephaniexchaos/dart/th_IMG_0326_zpsumhhfxi0.jpg">

Yeah, we've had a few threads about hydrocarbon "refrigerants". See here for example.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Somewhere I have about half a 25 lb cylinder of R12 that I've been toting around for at least the last 20 years. If I can locate it I really need to dispose of it.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

you really need to throw your system into a vacuum to check for leaks... but then again in rare cases a vacuum can actually seal up holes... but rare

_________________
'72 Valiant DD for over a decade-225-Disc brakes, big T-bars, big Sway bars f/r, carter bbd/super six, GM HEI, 2- 12" subs in trunk, 1000w amp...
'77 cherokee cheif widetrack-360-33x12.5 tires-no lift. keeps driveway dry-project/backup DD/mudder