Seems like after about 2 months or so my car will start running really ragged and the dwell shoots way up. So I pull the distributor and sure enough the points aren't opening at all. It seems like the contact point on the points is getting worn down really quickly and eventually it gets worn so much that the lobes on the distributor don't contact it anymore and the points stop opening. Is there a reason for this? I put the correct amount of grease on there. Could it be a loose distributor shaft or something with the gear on the cam? This has been going on for over 6 months now and I can't seem to fix it.

It's HEI time you got this fixed!

Dealing with points was one of the main reasons I went electronic.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Well, low-quality points will wear out fast like this, and a bum condenser will accelerate burning of the contacts themselves, but yeah...quit messing with points and put in one or another kind of electronic.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

i find light motor oil on the wick pad trailing the lobe on the reluctor that opens the points help, but you have to kept checking it so it is enough oil to keep it lubed. it is a pain so electronic might be the better option

there is a guy on Moparts that sells good stuff at a decent price. Never had a problem with it. Old NOS replacement parts.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

While condensors do go bad and destroy points, I wouldn't think that would cause the rubbing block to wear excessively. I am careful to clean everything and use the proper (Lubriplate) grease, as ozone attacks the lubricant. I'd check for wobble in the shaft and any looseness in vacuum advance plates. Apply vacuum and see how much the points move - if something is broken, it might force the points against the cam and cause rapid wear. I used to get 15K miles out of cheap (Standard) points, and maybe 2X that for premium (Accel) points.

Does the rubbing block wear off ? Sounds like the cam lobe is rough on the surface and maybe even the bushings are wore to let everything get in a bind. The cheap pionts will wear quicker on the running block but they still should last awail, if anything electric contact of the pionts should be the first to go.


If the shaft bushings are wearing so bad that its moving the shaft away from the pionts then the running block of the pionts should show good and its just a clearance problem. Compairing the old pionts to new ones, how does the rubbing block compair. Could it be the contacts are burning and this makes them build up a weld that is holding the pionts off the block. I have seen this and most of the time it comes down to a voltage problem that feeds the coil, or the coil itself.


If its the cam lobe that the pionts rubbing block rides on you can change out the unit and fix the dizzy.



I will have to agree with the others, a electronic distributor and a HEI module would be a great improvment to your car. It would run better and get better fuel mileage. Enough so that it would pay for the upgrade in a fuel months with fuel at the prices its at, and it appears to be climbing more in price.


Jess

Yeah the rubbing block wears off causing the points not to open. Actually I've had two shops replace two distributors because of loose shafts within the last year. I wasn't sure if it was just remanufactured garbage that they were taking out and putting in, or if it was just their way of scamming me. It looks more like it wasnt a scam and there really is something wrong. I mean I know cheap points are cheap points but they should definitely last longer than 1-2 months.

I read through the HEI post and im still kind of a dummy when it comes to what distributor to get. Is this one the correct one for my Duster?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0202942838

Sounds like electronic is the way to go. I have the HEI module figured out but I just need more info on what distributor to get and I should be good to go. Thanks.

you could also go this route
http://www.jcwhitney.com/Pertronix-Part ... m_search=1

Get the Pertronix and use your stock coil. Great way to go with very little effort and great performance.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Two replacement distributors in this car?

You may have a problem with your cam. It could be cam shaft motion, walking, alignment or gear damage. Many possibilities.
How much longitudinal motion of the distributor shaft are you getting when you have the distributor out? Move it up and down. It shouldn't move much at all.
Is there any damage to the cam gear on the distributor?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

A friend just had the same problem with points in his newly rebuilt 318. My points are doing good on my 71K original.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

That is exactly the right one — an ordinary Chrysler electronic-ignition distributor. And this particular one (3874 714) has good advance curves from the factory, right out of the box. Price is reasonable, go get it.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Alright thanks everyone. I put in my bid on it so we shall wait and see.

Which ECU do you have to go with it?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG