When I turn the key, the starter clicks once, then clicks again when I turn it back. I had the starter and battery tested, both are good. I was getting a jump when I noticed that the positive battery cable was just ever so slightly loose in the connector. I took it out and twisted the wire a bit better, put it back in the connector and after a few tries, the car finally fired up.

That was yesterday, now today I go to leave and I have the same problem. So I decide to cut the end off the wire, clean everything up perfectly and solder the wire to the connector. Now I can't get it to start no matter what. Whether im being jumped or not. I have 12.6 volts at the battery, starter and alternator. I also had the same voltage yesterday when it wasn't starting. Whats the deal and why won't it start even though the voltage is fine?

Chances are the battery cable is still bad and won't carry the current. You may or may not be surprised at how far corrosion will travel down a cable. Clamp on battery terminals are only a temporary fix. If you want to verify this is the problem connect the + lead of a volt meter to the + bat terminal and the - lead to the starter terminal and read the voltage while attempting to crank the engine. The meter will read the voltage drop along the cable.

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Joshua

Josh is right!!! Loose or corroded connection. A bad cable.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

I have no voltage drop and I even tried a brand new cable, same deal. I jumped the starter relay and still no start. So I hit the starter with a hammer and it started up. I'm going to remove the shim on the starter because it still spins for a little while after I let go of the key. Hopefully that fixes it.

Usually this is a temp fix, and after leaving you stranded a few times you'll either replace the starter or get a mini-starter and be done with it...

Of course if the thing continues to spin after you let go of the key, then your ignition switch might be going south (I've seen what happens when the yellow wire from the switch to the relay gets stuck and stays energized... your ring gear won't like it either...)



-D.Idiot

So is this a starter alone problem? It's only a week old and I had it tested a couple days ago and they said it was fine. I've never had a problem like this before so I'm a little dumb when it comes to diagnosing it.

First of all, I would make sure that when running you have a solid 14 -14.5 volts minimum at the battery positive lead indicating that the alternator and regulator are doing there job to give you the cranking power you need next time you go to start. The 12.6volts at rest is not a good measure of your battery's amperage capabilities under load.

Assuming that all checks out, let's look at a common starter problem although not likely on a one week old starter....:

The armature shaft on a starter can get burned, corroded, or otherwise non-conductive spots and if the brushes land on that spot, she won't start the next time until you rotate past that spot. It's kind of like RUSSIAN ROULETTE.....ROUND AND ROUND SHE GOES, WHERE SHE LANDS NOBODY KNOWS......You can test this theory the next time it doesn't start by loosening the starter, rotating it slightly by hand, retightening, then turn the key again. If she starts..........you've got a bad spot.

So if you don't wan't to play, I'd get a new starter.

Seriously though, get her started and check the charging system first, including the alternator belt tension.

Also, not likely but I have seen flywheels lose a tooth, so if all else fails, take the starter out rotate the engine slowly and make sure all the teeth are there. My money is on a bad alternator or alt belt tension dragging your battery down. Check and clean all of your grounds also, especially the main ground from battery to engine block. Even a jump start won't overcome bad grounds, wiring, or a battery with a couple defective cells.

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63 Valiant 200 Signet Convertible 170/
63 Dart, 225/
68 A100 Pick-up 225/
2006 Mitsu Raider Quad Cab (Dakota) Mopar 4.7L
1992 Dodge Stealth RT (My Mid-Lifer) 3.0L 24V

Well it turned out to be the starter. I had 14.8 volts at the battery when running but I couldn't get the thing to crank over unless I hit the starter with a hammer. Even then, it acted like it didn't want to engage at first but it would kind of half ass start up. Took the starter in and had it replaced since it has a lifetime warranty and sure enough it fired right up when I installed it.

Does anyone know whether the shim is needed for the starter on a 71 Duster? Even when it cranks up, the starter still spins for too long. Is this a normal deal with slant 6's?

The 'shim' is actually a cover plate so any debris that gets chumed up from your undercarriage doesn't fly into the bellhousing and get stuck some place (it's kind of odd to find things like chunks of gravel in between the flex plate and torque convertor, but it does happen)...

As for the starter spinning too long, it should engage when you crank the key, the engine fires, you release the key, and the starter should sound like it winds down a bit as it disengages the starting gear/shaft...

(unless you have the mini starter then it's *bump* ,whine, start...)


-D.Idiot

Thanks DI, everyone including myself just thinks it's kind of strange that the starter still spins pretty loudly for a good 3 to 4 seconds after releasing the key.

Yet another story of a cruddy "remanufactured" starter with a warranty that means you get to spend your lifetime replacing sequentially-faulty units.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Tell me about it Dan. I just realized i've gone through 3 starters, 3 alternators, 3 batteries and 4 distributors in 8 years. No exaggeration. I finally caught on to the remanufactured garbage story, but when the Duster is my only means of transportation, sometimes I just don't have the time to find a NOS or higher quality part online.