Slant Six Forum :: Z bar and mounting...

When I install the linkage for the A833OD swap, should I just get a junkyard Z bar and strengthen it, or are the brand new ones (a-la Brewer's Performance) already stronger than the original Mopar units?

Also, looking at the frame mount bracket for the ballstud, it looks like pretty thin material. I'm considering cutting a 3/16" steel plate and welding it in place instead of an actual bracket. My idea is that this will provide strength enough to avoid cracking the sheet metal as I'm planning to use a 10" clutch.

Quote:

I have yet to need to gusset anything... the bad part is if you shore up one item something else will give (if the linkage is pretty stout, the throwout bearing fork may bend or snap eventually, or you'll tear up the rubber bushing... or in cases I've seen, you can 'hog out' the eye on the linkage bolt and cause some other adjustment problems...)...

The best things you can do for the setup is: use good or new bushings, make sure to grease the bushings and linkage, get a new overcenter spring (old ones, usually develop a 'flat' spot where they won't come back up all the way...), make sure the linkage is tight and doesn't have any problems with the mounting 'eyelets'... use the 'truck' steel ball problem solver for the fork rod...

A 1/4" or 3/16" plate is fine, I did this cheat on Beater Valiant, just get it cleanly tacked, make it long enough to get some meat tacked to the frame... FYI the OEM bracket plate, is just 10/12 ga stamped metal (about 1/8" thick with a flange for stiffness...

Make sure you know what you're about to do I've never had the pleasure of using the stock 10" clutch, I've heard enough from local guys and I see Greg had the same problems of having the thing come apart... the sad part is it looks like OEM clutch sets are now all being made in China which doesn't boost my confidence is keeping my legs intact during a burn out...

-d.idiot

Surprisingly I have had good success with my 9"clutch.

I'm a bit late with these pics and a few people have asked about them so here they are:

The factory bracket/reinforcement looks like this:

If you don't have one in your car, you can get away with something simple, as explained previously, like this:

Both work equally well, and since no one's going to wedge themselves between the driver's front tire and wheel well to look, then they'll never know...

cheers,

-d.idiot

That and it gives me the peace of mind that it'll easily handle a big clutch for a big block conversion...

Quote:

That and it gives me the peace of mind that it'll easily handle a big clutch for a big block conversion...

Since the big block takes up so much room under the hood, and you want all the room you can get, I wouldn't even use the linkage and go with the hydro slave clutch... it'll save you time and headaches, and welding the plate....

-D.Idiot

Author:	Jopapa [ Sun Apr 06, 2008 11:20 am ]
Post subject:	Z bar and mounting...
When I install the linkage for the A833OD swap, should I just get a junkyard Z bar and strengthen it, or are the brand new ones (a-la Brewer's Performance) already stronger than the original Mopar units? Also, looking at the frame mount bracket for the ballstud, it looks like pretty thin material. I'm considering cutting a 3/16" steel plate and welding it in place instead of an actual bracket. My idea is that this will provide strength enough to avoid cracking the sheet metal as I'm planning to use a 10" clutch.

Author:	DusterIdiot [ Sun Apr 06, 2008 12:41 pm ]
Post subject:	Watch it...
Quote: When I install the linkage for the A833OD swap, should I just get a junkyard Z bar and strengthen it, or are the brand new ones (a-la Brewer's Performance) already stronger than the original Mopar units? Also, looking at the frame mount bracket for the ballstud, it looks like pretty thin material. I'm considering cutting a 3/16" steel plate and welding it in place instead of an actual bracket. My idea is that this will provide strength enough to avoid cracking the sheet metal as I'm planning to use a 10" clutch. I have yet to need to gusset anything... the bad part is if you shore up one item something else will give (if the linkage is pretty stout, the throwout bearing fork may bend or snap eventually, or you'll tear up the rubber bushing... or in cases I've seen, you can 'hog out' the eye on the linkage bolt and cause some other adjustment problems...)... The best things you can do for the setup is: use good or new bushings, make sure to grease the bushings and linkage, get a new overcenter spring (old ones, usually develop a 'flat' spot where they won't come back up all the way...), make sure the linkage is tight and doesn't have any problems with the mounting 'eyelets'... use the 'truck' steel ball problem solver for the fork rod... A 1/4" or 3/16" plate is fine, I did this cheat on Beater Valiant, just get it cleanly tacked, make it long enough to get some meat tacked to the frame... FYI the OEM bracket plate, is just 10/12 ga stamped metal (about 1/8" thick with a flange for stiffness... Make sure you know what you're about to do I've never had the pleasure of using the stock 10" clutch, I've heard enough from local guys and I see Greg had the same problems of having the thing come apart... the sad part is it looks like OEM clutch sets are now all being made in China which doesn't boost my confidence is keeping my legs intact during a burn out... -d.idiot

Author:	Jopapa [ Sun Apr 06, 2008 1:04 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Watch it...
Quote: Quote: When I install the linkage for the A833OD swap, should I just get a junkyard Z bar and strengthen it, or are the brand new ones (a-la Brewer's Performance) already stronger than the original Mopar units? Also, looking at the frame mount bracket for the ballstud, it looks like pretty thin material. I'm considering cutting a 3/16" steel plate and welding it in place instead of an actual bracket. My idea is that this will provide strength enough to avoid cracking the sheet metal as I'm planning to use a 10" clutch. I have yet to need to gusset anything... the bad part is if you shore up one item something else will give (if the linkage is pretty stout, the throwout bearing fork may bend or snap eventually, or you'll tear up the rubber bushing... or in cases I've seen, you can 'hog out' the eye on the linkage bolt and cause some other adjustment problems...)... The best things you can do for the setup is: use good or new bushings, make sure to grease the bushings and linkage, get a new overcenter spring (old ones, usually develop a 'flat' spot where they won't come back up all the way...), make sure the linkage is tight and doesn't have any problems with the mounting 'eyelets'... use the 'truck' steel ball problem solver for the fork rod... A 1/4" or 3/16" plate is fine, I did this cheat on Beater Valiant, just get it cleanly tacked, make it long enough to get some meat tacked to the frame... FYI the OEM bracket plate, is just 10/12 ga stamped metal (about 1/8" thick with a flange for stiffness... Make sure you know what you're about to do I've never had the pleasure of using the stock 10" clutch, I've heard enough from local guys and I see Greg had the same problems of having the thing come apart... the sad part is it looks like OEM clutch sets are now all being made in China which doesn't boost my confidence is keeping my legs intact during a burn out... -d.idiot The problem solver bushing is on the list as well for the linkage. I'm surprised the mounting bracket is so thin. sounds like 3/16" steel will be about perfect. I'll measure and make a template for a plate to be cut that'll overlap the frame rail and hopefully look factory (or at least, very clean) and weld the full diameter of it in place. I too have heard about 10" clutch issues, so I'm also planning on a new billet flywheel to avoid the risk of small cracks causing problems in a used flywheel. Haven't made up my mind on what clutch to use yet, but I'm keeping my eyes open for a good street clutch that'll allow for good road manners. I don't want a clutch that's "all or nothing" when I release the pedal.

Author:	sandy in BC [ Sun Apr 06, 2008 1:16 pm ]
Post subject:
Surprisingly I have had good success with my 9"clutch. I have a stock pressure plate and flywheel and a MCLeod disc. The 10" clutch seems to have been pieced together when the V8 was introduced......it uses the same flywheel and mounting bolts but is much heavier. The Taurus SHO and Turbo TBird used the 9 1/4"clutch and many imports that make plenty of power use smaller clutches. McLeod does not recommend the 10"clutch for performance apps on their website. Something to think about

Author:	DusterIdiot [ Sun Apr 06, 2008 2:51 pm ]
Post subject:	Lol...
Quote: Surprisingly I have had good success with my 9"clutch. I have too, the 9.25" actually has lasted for about 7 years now without any kaboom... and I think if it's pushed to it's limit it'll just fizzel out (grind to a halt, weaken out) instead of locking up and grenading... You have to remember that metal folded at 90 degrees will double the strength of the plate (angle vs. flat plate)... so the factory can save half the money by just punching a peice out and rolling a lip on the edge for the same strength (and spot welding it into place...)... On this operation, unless someone is going to stick their head behind your front driver's side tire, you can tack a plate in there, prime and paint it and no one will ever know... I'll get some pic tomorrow when I have some time to show you what the factory did and a quick and easy, for cars without...(and it's actually stronger than tacking a factory plate in place)... -D.Idiot

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Author:	DusterIdiot [ Thu Apr 24, 2008 4:00 pm ]
Post subject:	A bit late...pics
I'm a bit late with these pics and a few people have asked about them so here they are: The factory bracket/reinforcement looks like this: If you don't have one in your car, you can get away with something simple, as explained previously, like this: Both work equally well, and since no one's going to wedge themselves between the driver's front tire and wheel well to look, then they'll never know... cheers, -d.idiot

Author:	Jopapa [ Sat Apr 26, 2008 9:36 am ]
Post subject:	Re: A bit late...pics
Quote: I'm a bit late with these pics and a few people have asked about them so here they are: The factory bracket/reinforcement looks like this: If you don't have one in your car, you can get away with something simple, as explained previously, like this: Both work equally well, and since no one's going to wedge themselves between the driver's front tire and wheel well to look, then they'll never know... cheers, -d.idiot I actually prefer the appearance of the welded steel plate over the factory bracket. Just for the sake that it doesn't look like a pansy little half-assed "solution" like the factory bracket does. Fully welded steel plate coated with some chassis black Rust Encapsulator from Eastwood and it'd look pretty nice. That and it gives me the peace of mind that it'll easily handle a big clutch for a big block conversion...

Author:	DusterIdiot [ Sat Apr 26, 2008 12:37 pm ]
Post subject:	Wouldn't even do it...
Quote: That and it gives me the peace of mind that it'll easily handle a big clutch for a big block conversion... Since the big block takes up so much room under the hood, and you want all the room you can get, I wouldn't even use the linkage and go with the hydro slave clutch... it'll save you time and headaches, and welding the plate.... -D.Idiot

Author:	Jopapa [ Sat Apr 26, 2008 1:27 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Wouldn't even do it...
Quote: Quote: That and it gives me the peace of mind that it'll easily handle a big clutch for a big block conversion... Since the big block takes up so much room under the hood, and you want all the room you can get, I wouldn't even use the linkage and go with the hydro slave clutch... it'll save you time and headaches, and welding the plate.... -D.Idiot That's another option I've been considering. I'm interested in going the route of the Mcleod hydraulic throwout bearing. Problem is I haven't read much on them at all as to what people think of them, but I know of a couple people who've had earlier ones start leaking over time.

Author:	rock [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 5:50 am ]
Post subject:	I went with a pull slave because of a leak
I tried 3 kinds of hydro TOB's...2 leaks and a worry convinced me to just use an external pull slave. Never a problem since. The Wilwood has the longest stroke by a fraction, and that fraction is needed. rock '64d100

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