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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2001 9:53 am 
Hi, this is a request for help with a 225 slant 6 engine that happens to be in a 1965 jetboat. That's right ... a 16' "Turbocraft, Contessa" jetboat with a Buehller jet drive. I've been asked to rebuild the engine and to make it more powerful. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Most of my extensive mechanical experience is with British sportscars and I am very relieved to find a hotbed of slant 6 enthusiasts. This engine will be built to operate at 5000 to 5500 RPMs maximum as the jetdrive unit doesn't work well over that RPM. The idle must be kept to 1000 RPM or lower because there is no clutch or transmission between the engine and the jetdrive unit. There is a sufficient budget to undertake this project and many of the "normal" modifications are planned. About the only other limiting factor is that the exhaust system must be retained since it is water jacketed. The plus side of the water jacketed exhaust is that the engine will never run hot with a constant supply of cooling water being pumped through, from the lake it runs in.
Hard valve seats, guides, and valves will be used. The head will be ported with flow-bench testing and oversized valves used. I'm planning to use a high-lift, short duration camshaft to make as much power as possible in the low to mid RPM range. Compression will be in the 10:1 or 11:1 range, perhaps lower since since pump gas and probably not very high octane is all that is available where the boat will be used.
I understand that a .060" overbore is very possible and there is room for larger valves ... I've been researching this for a week now online. The engine arrived here Thursday, 11/1/01 and now it's time for me to finalize what work it will get and to start ordering parts. I believe the engine already has the forged crankshaft.
This message is not a joke, I can supply JPG pictures of the engine and/or brass, "Chrysler Marine" name tag if anyone is interested.
Again, any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The goal of this rebuild and power increase is to make the boat so that it will "get up on plane" with 8 adults on board, right now it can only do that with 6 adults on board.
Jeff Garber

tirebiter@compuserve.com


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2001 12:37 pm 
Jeff, first, Doug is going to want to know the specs of the cam you plan on using....ALL the specs.

I'm a bit conservative, but I would suggest building it with a strong eye toward reliability, then add the perf goodies. First, hit the salvage yards and round up what you need to convert it to electronic ignition, and snag a later model head and a "super-six" setup while you're there. The later heads do away with the spark plug tubes, and consequently, the typical oil seepage from them. The super-six is a two-barrel intake and carb, and will help on the induction side.
I'd suggest only boring it .030, but also decking the block .060, maybe .080, as well as taking off .060-.080 from the head, too. You can actually take more than that off, but the engine is going to need the reliability factor, so don't get too carried away. The block deck, combined with the head surfacing, will probably net you about 9.5-10 compression. (Just a guess, don't know the math right offhand.)
I think it's small block Ford valves that fit into those heads rather well, and combined with a good valve job and port work, it'll really wake up the engine. Your biggest stumbling block will be that water-cooled exhaust. The slant responds really well by opening up the exhaust, and head work helps it that much more. If you could maybe size up any exhaust tubing coming off the manifold, that should help.
Doug will probably respond with a more detailed set of suggestions, and all of us would like some feedback as to what you do, and how the engine, and boat responds, if you don't mind keeping in touch with the board.

Roger

GTS225@aol.com


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2001 1:53 pm 
Thanks for the post Jeff, this sounds like a fun project. Let's get some pictures posted if you have them available. (I will send you a seperate email)
You are on the right track with your general build-up plans, the cam selection is going to be the trickest thing on this set-up. We need to ask the owner for more detail on the boat's jet drive set-up, at what RPM did the old engine "flash" to before working under full jet impeller load? (this works much like torque converter stall speed) The 5000 to 5500 redline target is good info. and easy to work with. What is the current induction (manifold / carb.) on this engine?

Keep "feeding" us info, including any engine tear-down findings, questions or concerns. I will give you more info later after I "crunch some numbers".
DD
Quote:
:
: Hi, this is a request for help with a 225
: slant 6 engine that happens to be in a 1965
: jetboat. That's right ... a 16'
: "Turbocraft, Contessa" jetboat
: with a Buehller jet drive. I've been asked
: to rebuild the engine and to make it more
: powerful. Any suggestions will be greatly
: appreciated. Most of my extensive mechanical
: experience is with British sportscars and I
: am very relieved to find a hotbed of slant 6
: enthusiasts. This engine will be built to
: operate at 5000 to 5500 RPMs maximum as the
: jetdrive unit doesn't work well over that
: RPM. The idle must be kept to 1000 RPM or
: lower because there is no clutch or
: transmission between the engine and the
: jetdrive unit. There is a sufficient budget
: to undertake this project and many of the
: "normal" modifications are
: planned. About the only other limiting
: factor is that the exhaust system must be
: retained since it is water jacketed. The
: plus side of the water jacketed exhaust is
: that the engine will never run hot with a
: constant supply of cooling water being
: pumped through, from the lake it runs in.
: Hard valve seats, guides, and valves will be
: used. The head will be ported with
: flow-bench testing and oversized valves
: used. I'm planning to use a high-lift, short
: duration camshaft to make as much power as
: possible in the low to mid RPM range.
: Compression will be in the 10:1 or 11:1
: range, perhaps lower since since pump gas
: and probably not very high octane is all
: that is available where the boat will be
: used.
: I understand that a .060" overbore is very
: possible and there is room for larger valves
: ... I've been researching this for a week
: now online. The engine arrived here
: Thursday, 11/1/01 and now it's time for me
: to finalize what work it will get and to
: start ordering parts. I believe the engine
: already has the forged crankshaft.
: This message is not a joke, I can supply JPG
: pictures of the engine and/or brass,
: "Chrysler Marine" name tag if
: anyone is interested.
: Again, any help or suggestions would be greatly
: appreciated. The goal of this rebuild and
: power increase is to make the boat so that
: it will "get up on plane" with 8
: adults on board, right now it can only do
: that with 6 adults on board.
: Jeff Garber


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2001 5:24 pm 
DD,
Thanks for your input. I will keep the board posted as this project continues. Preliminary pictures by tommorrow night or the next day.
As I understand it, the engine would rev to 3700 or 4000 RPM as the nose would point skyward and no more, but only when fully loaded with a full compliment onboard. 4500 RPM is needed to climb up onto the water and start moving as it should. It seems like cavitation is not the problem at this point. I have no clue what RPM the jet drive starts loading the engine, I've never even seen the boat. Now maybe you understand a little more why I'm looking for some extra info about these slant 6 engines. Vairiable pitch jet drive impellors are available and have been tried without success, as I have been told.
Stock Slant 6 intake manifold and a "Ball & Ball" two barrel carb "made exclusively for Chrysler Marine" that I believe is a Carter ... built under license. A heat riser from the exhaust manifold shuts off the auto choke and both barrels appear to be the same size. I haven't spent enough time with the engine yet to see if the barrels open together or progressively. I should add here that if the appearance stays stock it would be magnificent but I am not sure if the stock intake can do what is needed regardless of any time I spend opening it up. (3) two barrel, side-draft webers are not beyond the scope of the job if needed, I do know how to set them up to work with the restrictive exhaust system. There is a space limitation due to the engine cover but this can be modified if needed, but (I'll say it again) I feel if the appearance stays stock, all the better.
I'll be dissasembling the engine within two weeks and will give a full report on what is inside. I've been told that the carb has been "messed with" and the block was replaced with an automotive equivalent. All internal pieces were swapped out of the broken block (frozen water damage several winters ago) and put into the automotive block, I am told. We'll see.
Jeff Garber
Quote:
:
: Thanks for the post Jeff, this sounds like a
: fun project. Let's get some pictures posted
: if you have them available. (I will send you
: a seperate email)
: You are on the right track with your general
: build-up plans, the cam selection is going
: to be the trickest thing on this set-up. We
: need to ask the owner for more detail on the
: boat's jet drive set-up, at what RPM did the
: old engine "flash" to before
: working under full jet impeller load? (this
: works much like torque converter stall
: speed) The 5000 to 5500 redline target is
: good info. and easy to work with. What is
: the current induction (manifold / carb.) on
: this engine?
:
: Keep "feeding" us info, including any
: engine tear-down findings, questions or
: concerns. I will give you more info later
: after I "crunch some numbers".
: DD



tirebiter@compuserve.com


Top
   
PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2001 5:46 pm 
Roger,
The reliable reputation is why I took on this job. Any words of wisdom about what does break in these slant 6 engines ? All of the engine components will be fully blueprinted to far closer than factory specifications and the moving parts will be balanced. Electronic igniton has been added already by the owner. I have to make a sealed box to keep the added components waterproof unless I can find a marine equivalent.
I will most likely use lighter pistons with a lower compression (pin) height and remove as much material from the head and block as I can, to cut weight. 20 or 30 pounds will make a difference in a boat this small.
The later cylinder head is something I will look into. Does the later head have any performance improvements/drawbacks over the earlier head ? This engine does have the pocketed spark plugs.
Why only to .030" overbore ? I would like to go as far as possible, is .060" all that can be done safely ?
The biggest stumbling block is the exhaust in my opinion. Does the slant 6 engine in particular, loose out tremendously with poor scavenging ? More than other engine designs ?
Thanks for your interest and suggestions,
Jeff Garber
Quote:
:
: Jeff, first, Doug is going to want to know the
: specs of the cam you plan on using....ALL
: the specs.
:
: I'm a bit conservative, but I would suggest
: building it with a strong eye toward
: reliability, then add the perf goodies.
: First, hit the salvage yards and round up
: what you need to convert it to electronic
: ignition, and snag a later model head and a
: "super-six" setup while you're
: there. The later heads do away with the
: spark plug tubes, and consequently, the
: typical oil seepage from them. The super-six
: is a two-barrel intake and carb, and will
: help on the induction side.
: I'd suggest only boring it .030, but also
: decking the block .060, maybe .080, as well
: as taking off .060-.080 from the head, too.
: You can actually take more than that off,
: but the engine is going to need the
: reliability factor, so don't get too carried
: away. The block deck, combined with the head
: surfacing, will probably net you about
: 9.5-10 compression. (Just a guess, don't
: know the math right offhand.)
: I think it's small block Ford valves that fit
: into those heads rather well, and combined
: with a good valve job and port work, it'll
: really wake up the engine. Your biggest
: stumbling block will be that water-cooled
: exhaust. The slant responds really well by
: opening up the exhaust, and head work helps
: it that much more. If you could maybe size
: up any exhaust tubing coming off the
: manifold, that should help.
: Doug will probably respond with a more detailed
: set of suggestions, and all of us would like
: some feedback as to what you do, and how the
: engine, and boat responds, if you don't mind
: keeping in touch with the board.
:
: Roger



Tirebiter@compuserve.com


Top
   
PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2001 7:17 pm 
Quote:
: Roger,
: The reliable reputation is why I took on this
: job. Any words of wisdom about what does
: break in these slant 6 engines ? All of the
: engine components will be fully blueprinted
: to far closer than factory specifications
: and the moving parts will be balanced.
: Electronic igniton has been added already by
: the owner. I have to make a sealed box to
: keep the added components waterproof unless
: I can find a marine equivalent.
: I will most likely use lighter pistons with a
: lower compression (pin) height and remove as
: much material from the head and block as I
: can, to cut weight. 20 or 30 pounds will
: make a difference in a boat this small.
: The later cylinder head is something I will
: look into. Does the later head have any
: performance improvements/drawbacks over the
: earlier head ? This engine does have the
: pocketed spark plugs.
: Why only to .030" overbore ? I would like
: to go as far as possible, is .060" all
: that can be done safely ?
: The biggest stumbling block is the exhaust in
: my opinion. Does the slant 6 engine in
: particular, loose out tremendously with poor
: scavenging ? More than other engine designs
: ?
: Thanks for your interest and suggestions,
: Jeff Garber


Jeff, you can bore one .100" easy enough, and it opens up a wider selection of pistons. I have a Slant that is .060" over with 7" long 198ci Slant rods and 2.2liter Turbo pistons in it. You do end up with a higher pin height and a lighter piston. The only drawback to the 2.2 piston is that it has narrow rings, and that may lead to accelerated wear in a high RPM use. Dennis


slantzilla@excite.com


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2001 9:55 pm 
Jeff,
Be sure to read through some of the articles posted in the articles section of the site.
Stroking the SL6
SL6 Block Prep
Hot Rod Magazine "Slant Sickness"
Chrysler Performance Engines - SL6 Chaptor

Tons of info. there waiting to be "had" and post detailed questions as you have them.
DD
Quote:
:
: Hi, this is a request for help with a 225
: slant 6 engine that happens to be in a 1965
: jetboat. That's right ... a 16'
: "Turbocraft, Contessa" jetboat
: with a Buehller jet drive. I've been asked
: to rebuild the engine and to make it more
: powerful. Any suggestions will be greatly
: appreciated. Most of my extensive mechanical
: experience is with British sportscars and I
: am very relieved to find a hotbed of slant 6
: enthusiasts. This engine will be built to
: operate at 5000 to 5500 RPMs maximum as the
: jetdrive unit doesn't work well over that
: RPM. The idle must be kept to 1000 RPM or
: lower because there is no clutch or
: transmission between the engine and the
: jetdrive unit. There is a sufficient budget
: to undertake this project and many of the
: "normal" modifications are
: planned. About the only other limiting
: factor is that the exhaust system must be
: retained since it is water jacketed. The
: plus side of the water jacketed exhaust is
: that the engine will never run hot with a
: constant supply of cooling water being
: pumped through, from the lake it runs in.
: Hard valve seats, guides, and valves will be
: used. The head will be ported with
: flow-bench testing and oversized valves
: used. I'm planning to use a high-lift, short
: duration camshaft to make as much power as
: possible in the low to mid RPM range.
: Compression will be in the 10:1 or 11:1
: range, perhaps lower since since pump gas
: and probably not very high octane is all
: that is available where the boat will be
: used.
: I understand that a .060" overbore is very
: possible and there is room for larger valves
: ... I've been researching this for a week
: now online. The engine arrived here
: Thursday, 11/1/01 and now it's time for me
: to finalize what work it will get and to
: start ordering parts. I believe the engine
: already has the forged crankshaft.
: This message is not a joke, I can supply JPG
: pictures of the engine and/or brass,
: "Chrysler Marine" name tag if
: anyone is interested.
: Again, any help or suggestions would be greatly
: appreciated. The goal of this rebuild and
: power increase is to make the boat so that
: it will "get up on plane" with 8
: adults on board, right now it can only do
: that with 6 adults on board.
: Jeff Garber


Top
   
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2001 8:35 pm 
Quote:
: Hi, this is a request for help with a 225
: slant 6 engine that happens to be in a 1965
: jetboat. That's right ... a 16'
: "Turbocraft, Contessa" jetboat with a SL6...


Here are the PICs Jeff emailed and some info. I dug-out of my files. (see the link below the tag)
DD



Marine Slant Six Pictures
Image


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 Post subject: Re: Thanks Dennis
PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2001 2:51 am 
Quote:
:Jeff, you can bore one .100" easy enough, and :it opens up a wider selection of pistons. I have :a Slant that is .060" over with 7" long 198ci :Slant rods and 2.2liter Turbo pistons in it. You :do end up with a higher pin height and a lighter :piston. The only drawback to the 2.2 piston is :that it has narrow rings, and that may lead to :accelerated wear in a high RPM use. Dennis

Dennis,
Thanks for the info. .100" will help a lot. I'll have to determine if the block has any core shift first as I understand it. I'll likely have pistons made especially for this engine but it's good to know that there are off-the-shelf ones available. The only high RPM use will be for a short time ( hopefully ) until the boat gets up on plane and then throttled back.
I've been talking to some other people who know about the jetdrive and it's a unanimous decision ... 8 people onbard a 16' boat is called "overloaded". I'll be having a very frank discussion with the owner of the boat and then determine if the project is doable. I have no doubt the Slant 6 can produce enough power but I'm pretty sure some "chassis" modifications will be in order, i.e. hydraulically controlled trim plates or a jet discharge nozle vane that can direct the water down until the boat gets up on plane.
Thanks again Dennis, for your input,
Jeff Garber


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 Post subject: Re: Thanks Dennis
PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2001 5:04 pm 
Quote:
: Dennis,
: Thanks for the info. .100" will help a
: lot. I'll have to determine if the block has
: any core shift first as I understand it.
: I'll likely have pistons made especially for
: this engine but it's good to know that there
: are off-the-shelf ones available. The only
: high RPM use will be for a short time (
: hopefully ) until the boat gets up on plane
: and then throttled back.
: I've been talking to some other people who know
: about the jetdrive and it's a unanimous
: decision ... 8 people onbard a 16' boat is
: called "overloaded". I'll be
: having a very frank discussion with the
: owner of the boat and then determine if the
: project is doable. I have no doubt the Slant
: 6 can produce enough power but I'm pretty
: sure some "chassis" modifications
: will be in order, i.e. hydraulically
: controlled trim plates or a jet discharge
: nozle vane that can direct the water down
: until the boat gets up on plane.
: Thanks again Dennis, for your input,
: Jeff Garber


You are welcome!


slantzilla@excite.com


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2001 8:36 am 
Quote:
: Here are the PICs Jeff emailed and some info. I
: dug-out of my files. (see the link below the
: tag)
: DD Hey...Cool stuff..It reads in the info link that Chrysler engineered a water heated intake for the marine applications..??Anyone ever seen one of these???...



Scambo@wolfenet.com


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