I've been noticing that my '72 Dart's suspension is showing it's age. The torsion bars are mushy, the rubber is gone, and it handles worse than my dad's old '66 Bel Air.
I like the look of lowered classics (if done properly) and since my front-end needs some attention......Why not catch two fish on one hook?

My question is, will the stock shock mounts on a '72 A-body support a coil-over spring? There is a beefy 1/8" steel bracket there that looks possibly strong enough. I have read where people install a coil-over, and unload the torsion bars; leaving them to locate the lower arm. Comments? Refutations? I'm looking for about a 3" drop.....

Or would it be easier to install big block torsion bars and lower them with the adjustment bolt?

This is sort of a budget-build.....so no Alterkation front ends or such.
Any comments would be appreciated!

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

No coil overs! Actually the shock mount can see more loading from just the shocks that with the springs, but coil overs are completely unnecessary.

firmfeel.com Brand new made in the US torsion bars in all kinds of wheel rates/sizes. I have 1.04" Mopar Performance torsion bars in my '67 Valiant with QA1 Stocker Star shocks and you wouldn't believe the ride. KYBs aren't very good for ride, but they are a lot cheaper.

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Joshua

The sad part is I just put a set of 340/360 bars in my duster with KYB's, with the adjuster loose, the car didn't sag much (it was about an inch lower after hitting the uca bumper...)... The thing rides sooo much better than old bushings, 890/891 bars and the 'monroe' specials...

-D.Idiot

O.K....so no votes for coil-overs so far. Josh, that sounds great....but I'm also trying to lower the car. (3 inches to boot...) Performance handling is the top priority....but I would like to lower the car while I'm at it.
DI, are you saying that with the 340 bars it didn't lower much; even with the adjuster loose?
I have a source for coil-overs....and I can get a set cheaper than a new set of torsion bars. But if it's not a good idea...oh well.

Is there any way to mod the original torsion "key" so that the bar mounting hole is rotated to lower the car, while keeping the same amount of pre-load? Maybe fab a new one?

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

Nope. That's why the alterkation k-member replaces the upper shock mounts with welded steel framework.
That's what I did. It's no lowrider, though. You'll end up on the lower control arms pretty quick (I trimmed the lower bumpstops). Maybe Doc will chime in - he modified the LCA's on the Dacuda to allow for lowering the bumpstops. It sits loooooow.

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vm

Thanks! That's where I saw a low A-body here...It's the Dacuda!
I'll dig around and see if I can find a post on his mods...

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

Doc posted a pic of his LCA mods at one point, but I'll be damned if I can find it. You may wanna just PM him directly and see if he can repost it for you. I was envious...

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vm