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| Need Help With slant build https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28744 |
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| Author: | 75customdart [ Sun May 04, 2008 7:13 am ] |
| Post subject: | Need Help With slant build |
Hi again my name is Cory I live in Denver pennsylvania, i recently was given a 75 dodge dart custom 4 door /6 from my grandmother. I have done the fuel line mod, a cool air intake and a new 2 1/4 split to 2 inch dual exhaust system that added 2.2 mpg. I have purchased an extra engine and was wondering if there was anyone that lives or lived around this area that could point me in the direction of a good machine shop where i could get some work done. Thanks Cory   
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| Author: | 75plyduster [ Sun May 04, 2008 8:14 am ] |
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Thats a really nice car. What kind of gas mileage are you getting? |
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| Author: | british_steel [ Sun May 04, 2008 9:19 am ] |
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That car is really clean. Handle her with care. 
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun May 04, 2008 9:53 am ] |
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Wow, that is a super-clean car! If you'll post a good clear picture or an accurate transcription of the data plate on the driver's side inner fender (a 2" x 3" metal tag with letters and numbers on it) we can tell you some pretty detailed information about your car. Don't know any mechanics in your area personally. What sort of a cold-air intake did you install...? |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sun May 04, 2008 11:29 am ] |
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75Custom Dart, Send us a picture of your cold air intake mod. I will be happy to share mine. It works very well! Send me your email and I will share a few pictures.  How about a shot of the dual exhaust? |
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| Author: | 75customdart [ Sun May 04, 2008 11:33 am ] |
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I get between 20 and 21 mpg back and forth to work, which is all stop and go under 50mph. Thank you everyone for your great complements. Here is a pic of the fender tag   And of the door tag  and part of the cool air intake before it was finished i added a 45 degree angle bend and the filter behind the grill and removed the factory filter.   I was also wonder what cam would be recommended for an engine with the head shaved .10 and 2 1/4 exhaust. |
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| Author: | runvs_826 [ Sun May 04, 2008 11:38 am ] |
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Well, a good machine shop is like finding a great girl, you go through many untill you find a good one and than you hold onto her. So to sum it up I have no idea about shops around your area. But if you semi-hands on kinda guy I'm more than happy to point you into directions of what to do your engine. It helps if you assemble it yourself cause than you can ship out machine work like seats, boring, and guides which are a littl ebut more difficult to screw up by the NAPA guys. I like to specialize in the old hot rod tricks you can do in your garage than the all billet builds that are more popular today. So searching I've always like to point out the "twiggy aluminum" build by Doc, and the engine matrix. The first step with any build is a budget (multiply original number by 1.5) and a specific goal to be made, I found number aren't necessarily the best "goals" but are easier to feel accomplished. Nice car, feel free to pm me about any ideas, and my baby is under the slixer galllery "Buster the Duster." |
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| Author: | 75customdart [ Sun May 04, 2008 11:52 am ] |
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Yesterday i purchased a 75 4 door /6 parts dart with 100,000 on the drive train off of ebay for $250. The engine i would like to build is out of this car. i would also like to put a shift kit in the trany. Im heading to my garage to change the oil now and i will get some pics of the exhaust and the interior for you guys to enjoy. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun May 04, 2008 12:06 pm ] |
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L = Dodge Dart H = High trim level 41 = 4 Door Sedan C = 225 105HP(net) 1bbl 6 cylinder engine 5 = 1975 model year F = Built at Newark, DE, USA 199109 Vehicle serial number E24 = 225 1 Barrel 6 Cyllinder engine D34 = TorqueFlite Automatic Transmission LY6 = main body paint code: Inca Gold Poly (metallic) Ditzler #2738 C = Interior trim type designator 4 = Vinyl split bench seat w/ centre arm rest Y3 = Light gold upholstery KY4 = Upper door frame paint code: Golden Fawn Poly (metallic) Ditzler #2635 820 = Build date: August 20, 1975 (late-production '75) 185328 = Vehicle order number V1X = Full vinyl roof, black U = Built to US market specifications G25 = Manual vent wing windows G52 = Driver's remote control chrome sideview mirror J52 = Inside hood release L31 = Fendertop turn signals L73 = Seatbelt reminder light M21 = Roof drip rail mouldings M25 = Wide body sill moulding M38 = Decklid finish panel moulding N65 = Not exactly sure, but almost certainly designates the exhaust emission control system parameters 22 = 22" wide radiator (extra cooling) Don't see any power steering or brakes, and no A/C; grandma must've been pretty sturdy and heatproof.  I like your cold air duct, but why adding a filter behind the grille where it'll dirty up much faster, rather than using the perfectly adequate one inside the housing? And why removing the air preheater duct from the bottom of the air cleaner to the stove on the exhaust manifold, which only improves driveability and mileage? Can't see from these photos if this '75 is equipped with an OSAC valve. Take a look at how the hose is routed from the distributor. If it goes directly from the distributor to the carburetor, great. If it goes from the distributor to a widget on the air cleaner housing, and from there to the carburetor, then reroute it so that it goes directly from distributor to carburetor; you'll find your acceleration and mileage improve a great deal. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sun May 04, 2008 12:17 pm ] |
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75customdart, Great pics! Thanks. I rotated the snorkel towards the cut out and used a nice bulkhead fitting for the hose to slide on to for easy removal. It shortens the distance and is a straighter shot. I also have kept the hot air hose hooked up for those cold mornings, which really helps like Dan says. |
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| Author: | 75customdart [ Sun May 04, 2008 7:26 pm ] |
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Here are some pics of the exhaust that i took while waiting for the oil to drain. I had the hot air snorkel removed from when it was getting the exhaust work done and forgot to put it back on, but it will be back in action soon. 2 1/4 manifold to muffler   single inlet dual outlet single chamber racing muffle with 2 inch pipe after muffler   18 inch of 2 1/4 polished stainless steal tips    All for $267.45 at a local shop |
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| Author: | CrAlt [ Sun May 04, 2008 7:35 pm ] |
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Quote: Don't see any power steering or brakes, and no A/C; grandma must've been pretty sturdy and heatproof. Mr. Green
Hmm.. looks like P/S on that pic post  Maybe its standard by then? And thus unlisted on the fender tag. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun May 04, 2008 8:08 pm ] |
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Quote: Quote: Don't see any power steering or brakes, and no A/C; grandma must've been pretty sturdy and heatproof. Mr. Green
Hmm.. looks like P/S on that pic post Quote: Maybe its standard by then?
Nope.
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sun May 04, 2008 8:58 pm ] |
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75CusomDart, Thanks for the dual exhaust shots. Some guys claim that it is impossible to do with out moving the gas tank. Nice work! Keep count'n those mods and watch the mileage go up.
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| Author: | 75customdart [ Mon May 05, 2008 3:44 am ] |
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I was wondering what all is need to swap in a high performance cam shaft? Also are new pushrods need if you get the head milled .10? |
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