Hi again my name is Cory I live in Denver pennsylvania, i recently was given a 75 dodge dart custom 4 door /6 from my grandmother. I have done the fuel line mod, a cool air intake and a new 2 1/4 split to 2 inch dual exhaust system that added 2.2 mpg. I have purchased an extra engine and was wondering if there was anyone that lives or lived around this area that could point me in the direction of a good machine shop where i could get some work done. Thanks Cory

_________________
75 dart custom, 225, >10.5-1, hurricane, 500holley, erson cam, 904, 8.8 ford 3.55 or 3.91 aussielocked, 17" steelies, and much more.

Thats a really nice car. What kind of gas mileage are you getting?

_________________
Ronnie
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2714941

That car is really clean. Handle her with care.

Wow, that is a super-clean car! If you'll post a good clear picture or an accurate transcription of the data plate on the driver's side inner fender (a 2" x 3" metal tag with letters and numbers on it) we can tell you some pretty detailed information about your car.

Don't know any mechanics in your area personally. What sort of a cold-air intake did you install...?

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

75Custom Dart,

Send us a picture of your cold air intake mod. I will be happy to share mine.
It works very well! Send me your email and I will share a few pictures.

How about a shot of the dual exhaust?

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I get between 20 and 21 mpg back and forth to work, which is all stop and go under 50mph. Thank you everyone for your great complements.

Here is a pic of the fender tag




And of the door tag


and part of the cool air intake before it was finished i added a 45 degree angle bend and the filter behind the grill and removed the factory filter.





I was also wonder what cam would be recommended for an engine with the head shaved .10 and 2 1/4 exhaust.

_________________
75 dart custom, 225, >10.5-1, hurricane, 500holley, erson cam, 904, 8.8 ford 3.55 or 3.91 aussielocked, 17" steelies, and much more.

Well, a good machine shop is like finding a great girl, you go through many untill you find a good one and than you hold onto her. So to sum it up I have no idea about shops around your area. But if you semi-hands on kinda guy I'm more than happy to point you into directions of what to do your engine. It helps if you assemble it yourself cause than you can ship out machine work like seats, boring, and guides which are a littl ebut more difficult to screw up by the NAPA guys. I like to specialize in the old hot rod tricks you can do in your garage than the all billet builds that are more popular today. So searching I've always like to point out the "twiggy aluminum" build by Doc, and the engine matrix. The first step with any build is a budget (multiply original number by 1.5) and a specific goal to be made, I found number aren't necessarily the best "goals" but are easier to feel accomplished.
Nice car, feel free to pm me about any ideas, and my baby is under the slixer galllery "Buster the Duster."

Yesterday i purchased a 75 4 door /6 parts dart with 100,000 on the drive train off of ebay for $250. The engine i would like to build is out of this car. i would also like to put a shift kit in the trany. Im heading to my garage to change the oil now and i will get some pics of the exhaust and the interior for you guys to enjoy.

_________________
75 dart custom, 225, >10.5-1, hurricane, 500holley, erson cam, 904, 8.8 ford 3.55 or 3.91 aussielocked, 17" steelies, and much more.

L = Dodge Dart
H = High trim level
41 = 4 Door Sedan
C = 225 105HP(net) 1bbl 6 cylinder engine
5 = 1975 model year
F = Built at Newark, DE, USA
199109 Vehicle serial number
E24 = 225 1 Barrel 6 Cyllinder engine
D34 = TorqueFlite Automatic Transmission
LY6 = main body paint code: Inca Gold Poly (metallic) Ditzler #2738
C = Interior trim type designator
4 = Vinyl split bench seat w/ centre arm rest
Y3 = Light gold upholstery
KY4 = Upper door frame paint code: Golden Fawn Poly (metallic) Ditzler #2635
820 = Build date: August 20, 1975 (late-production '75)
185328 = Vehicle order number
V1X = Full vinyl roof, black
U = Built to US market specifications
G25 = Manual vent wing windows
G52 = Driver's remote control chrome sideview mirror
J52 = Inside hood release
L31 = Fendertop turn signals
L73 = Seatbelt reminder light
M21 = Roof drip rail mouldings
M25 = Wide body sill moulding
M38 = Decklid finish panel moulding
N65 = Not exactly sure, but almost certainly designates the exhaust emission control system parameters
22 = 22" wide radiator (extra cooling)

Don't see any power steering or brakes, and no A/C; grandma must've been pretty sturdy and heatproof.

I like your cold air duct, but why adding a filter behind the grille where it'll dirty up much faster, rather than using the perfectly adequate one inside the housing? And why removing the air preheater duct from the bottom of the air cleaner to the stove on the exhaust manifold, which only improves driveability and mileage?

Can't see from these photos if this '75 is equipped with an OSAC valve. Take a look at how the hose is routed from the distributor. If it goes directly from the distributor to the carburetor, great. If it goes from the distributor to a widget on the air cleaner housing, and from there to the carburetor, then reroute it so that it goes directly from distributor to carburetor; you'll find your acceleration and mileage improve a great deal.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

75customdart,

Great pics! Thanks.

I rotated the snorkel towards the cut out and used a nice bulkhead fitting for the hose to slide on to for easy removal. It shortens the distance and is a straighter shot. I also have kept the hot air hose hooked up for those cold mornings, which really helps like Dan says.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Here are some pics of the exhaust that i took while waiting for the oil to drain. I had the hot air snorkel removed from when it was getting the exhaust work done and forgot to put it back on, but it will be back in action soon.

2 1/4 manifold to muffler





single inlet dual outlet single chamber racing muffle with 2 inch pipe after muffler





18 inch of 2 1/4 polished stainless steal tips







All for $267.45 at a local shop

_________________
75 dart custom, 225, >10.5-1, hurricane, 500holley, erson cam, 904, 8.8 ford 3.55 or 3.91 aussielocked, 17" steelies, and much more.

Hmm.. looks like P/S on that pic post

Maybe its standard by then? And thus unlisted on the fender tag.

Yeah, it does have P/S...but it's not coded on the tag.
Nope.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

75CusomDart,

Thanks for the dual exhaust shots. Some guys claim that it is impossible to do with out moving the gas tank. Nice work!

Keep count'n those mods and watch the mileage go up.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I was wondering what all is need to swap in a high performance cam shaft? Also are new pushrods need if you get the head milled .10?

_________________
75 dart custom, 225, >10.5-1, hurricane, 500holley, erson cam, 904, 8.8 ford 3.55 or 3.91 aussielocked, 17" steelies, and much more.