Hi! Sorry if you don't always understand what I write but i'm from finland and I was needed to come here to ask some help with my 1976 Dodge Aspen.

I need some basic adjusting tips for this 1 barrel carb. I have found only choke adjusting tips but they don't help because I have ripped off my carbs choke (works better without) So, how do you adjust the idling? There's only two screws that you can turn, another is for mixture adjusting I guess...
The another one adjusts the position of the throtthle paddle (or whatever it's called in english?). I'm out of clue here, so i'd be happy if you gentleman would help me.
Aslo what is the idling speed of the slant? 750rpm or what?

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Aspen '76. And yes it already has a new paintjob.

Hi! Welcome on the board. Here is the Holley 1945 operation and rebuild manual (pdf). You will definitely also want to buy a factory service manual for your car, since knowledge about it is probably not common in your locale. An idle speed of 750 rpm is about right. The screw at the lower right front corner of the carburetor adjusts the idle mixture, and there are two idle speed adjusting screws on the throttle lever. One controls the slow idle for when the engine is warm, and the other controls the fast idle for when the engine is cold. If your car runs better without a choke in cold Finland, there is definitely something wrong with the carburetor!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thank you so much! We do have knowledge in finland about slant engines but people in here aren't so helpful to each others. There is definitely something wrong in my cars carb. It doesn't run good without choke but at least it runs. If the choke is on, it won't run at all (just a big mess, gas all over the place).
I'll fix the choke after I get the hang on with the basics.

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Aspen '76. And yes it already has a new paintjob.

One of the problems that I had with that carb was the floats rubbing on the sides causing them to hang up and run rich. You may want to take a look at them and rebend them if needed so they don't make contact with the side of the bowl. That way they can rise up and shut off the fuel coming in.

Of course it would be good to rebuild it after all these years......hope you can get a rebuild kit over there...

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

you know... I had one 2300 with no float. Just tapped a hose fitting on the side bowl plug, but I did have installed a return line to the tank. That is the cure for so many problems that I wouldn't hesitate in throwing time and money in doing that.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Juan,

I would have never considered that. Did you have to run a pump on the return line?

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Joshua

no, Just the return fitting was higher (closer to the trunk's floor) than the float "exit" fitting.

EDIT: you can use any variable output electric fuel pump to improve you car response... more even fuel perssure means less chance of pressure being off while idling or high revving would screw up your emulsion stages (controlled by fuel bowl level, while you pound on the gas the fuel level inside your bowl decreases and uncovers more "leak holes")

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

I would think if he's running rich the nitrophyll/"foam" floats have now been compromised and sunk... too bad they don't make brass floats from some of these carbs....they probably would last longer than the 1945...

-D.Idiot