Slant Six Forum :: Slant Six in or near Denver?

If my Dart were equipped with a time-travel module (flux capacitor?) I'd head back to sometime before I moved away from Denver and help you out personally.

Another question. I'm now pretty convinced that my valves aren't adjusted properly. My car ffffits and tick-tick-ticks. If they aren't adjusted correctly, could that also be part of the hard-start problem? I'm going to do the valve adjustment procedure regardless, but I was just wondering.

I do have to say that it is great that I can get the gas to squirt in there. At least it's liquid in the lines! (this was after modding the fuel line). But the hissing and vapor, is that normal? In my head, I'm guessing the fuel is getting vaporized in the carb rather than being atomized and mixed with air before going down through the intake manifold.

The electric fan solution sounds interesting. Do you have any suggested part numbers for them?

What thermostat temperature are you running in this engine?

Another good mod that'll help with extreme heat soak issues is to add a fuel return line. This can be done by using a 3-nipple fuel filter (Wix 33054 or NAPA Gold 3054, Purolator F20030). The 3rd nipple is a vapour return. It has a 0.060" orifice and takes a Â¼" hose, which you must route safely back to the fuel tank (a hassle, but it's not impossible). This helps alleviate high fuel pressure that develops between the pump and carb after shutdown.

Dan, on a 74 where I have a fuel return line that connects to the cannister

Author:	Spacetoast [ Sat Jun 07, 2008 6:42 pm ]
Post subject:	Slant Six in or near Denver?
Hi all, I have a '63 Convertible Valiant with a '66 225 from a Dart inside it. I'm having some issues with it stalling after coming off the highway (after getting the engine nice and warm) and really, really hard starting when hot or warm. I've read several threads on how to alleviate the issue (the fuel line mod thread for one, which I did) and I think the next thing I might try is a phenolic spacer and heat shield because the carb gets pretty darn hot to the touch after the car has been running a good while. Then I read the post about adjusting the valves and I wondered if the valves weren't adjusted correctly could this also be part of the problem. So I'm going to try that. BUT, what I really wanted to ask was if there was anyone on this board with a well-tuned Slant Six in or near Denver. I would love to hear how it sounds because this is my first Slant Six and I've never heard another one (especially a well-kept one) run. I have no idea what sort of sounds it should (or should not) be making. Mine makes some funny fffit-fffit-fffit or tick-tick-tick noises most noticeable when I'm accelerating. I don't know if that is normal or not. Plus it would be cool to meet another Slant Sixer in the area. Specifically, I'm in Golden. Thanks! Curtis

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sat Jun 07, 2008 6:53 pm ]
Post subject:
If my Dart were equipped with a time-travel module (flux capacitor?) I'd head back to sometime before I moved away from Denver and help you out personally. Properly tuned and adjusted slant-6s run perfectly smoothly and very quietly. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. And here's the valve adjustment procedure. You may find your carburetor needs rebuilding or replacement. If so, do not buy a "remanufactured" unit from a parts store; they're trash.

Author:	DusterIdiot [ Sat Jun 07, 2008 8:23 pm ]
Post subject:	Also...
another thing to consider is making sure the heat stove counter weight moves freely ... if it's stuck you'll get some nice carb baking and some rough running (especially after a nice shot down the freeway)... Good Luck, -D.Idiot

Author:	Spacetoast [ Sat Jun 07, 2008 9:40 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: If my Dart were equipped with a time-travel module (flux capacitor?) I'd head back to sometime before I moved away from Denver and help you out personally. Haha, it's really funny you should mention that because I took the wife and baby to the sonic in the Valiant today and two Delorean's parked next to us. One was outfitted with all the gear from the future Delorean including a Flux Capacitor AND a Mr. Fusion! I took pictures so maybe I'll try to post them a bit later. Thanks for the tips, guys. My engine definitely does not sound smooth so it sounds like I have some work to do on it. The stove counter weight does seem to move smoothly. In fact, I swapped an exhaust manifold with another one because that part was stiff and didn't move. Is there a way to tell for sure that it is doing what it should be doing?

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sat Jun 07, 2008 9:57 pm ]
Post subject:
With the engine cold, rotate the counterweight counterclockwise (as viewed from the front) until it stops, then let go. If it springs easily all the way back, it's good.

Slant Six Forum https://slantsix.org/forum/

Slant Six in or near Denver? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=29371	Page 1 of 2

Author:	Spacetoast [ Sun Jun 08, 2008 10:50 am ]
Post subject:
Thanks, Dan. I'll check that out. Here is a link to the Back to the Future Delorean: http://bathedandinfused.com/curtis/bttf/ The attention to detail was crazy on that car. The Flux Capacitor even had the warning stickers about protecting your eyes from the flash and to disconnect the power before opening it. Oh, and in that one picture where my hood was up? Yeah, I wasn't showing off the engine. I was trying to get it cool so we could start the car again.

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Sun Jun 08, 2008 1:34 pm ]
Post subject:
Spacetoast, Here are three things you might consider to minimize heat soak. 1. You should do SL6Dan's fuel line mod. if you have problem with hot starts. It really helped mine allot and is very easy to do. The steel line can boil the fuel. 2. I also swapped out the cast iron intake for an aluminum one barrel which also helped a bunch. It cools quicker and doesn't heat soak the carb as bad. 3. Another thing that helped was going to an electric fan. When I run into a store I leave the power switch on so the fan can turn on and cool down the car. When I come out, it starts right up. A very, very nice feature!

Author:	Spacetoast [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 6:46 am ]
Post subject:
Thanks Aggressive Ted. I actually did do the fuel line mod and I believe it helped the issue with the fuel boiling in the line, but I still get hard hot starts. The electric fan solution sounds interesting. Do you have any suggested part numbers for them? I'm pretty much a novice when it comes to tinkering with engines in general, so I'm not always sure if I know what I'm talking about or if what I perceive is going on is actually the problem. I've been guilty of going after phantom problems to solve an issue, but I guess we've all probably been there. I really don't know how hot/warm a carb should get. I know that when my car dies after coming off of a highway run (from Golden up to Genessee on I-70 if you know where that is), and I pop the hood, take off the air cleaner and operate the throttle, the gas squirting into the carb hisses and vaporizes. I do have to say that it is great that I can get the gas to squirt in there. At least it's liquid in the lines! (this was after modding the fuel line). But the hissing and vapor, is that normal? In my head, I'm guessing the fuel is getting vaporized in the carb rather than being atomized and mixed with air before going down through the intake manifold. Another question. I'm now pretty convinced that my valves aren't adjusted properly. My car ffffits and tick-tick-ticks. If they aren't adjusted correctly, could that also be part of the hard-start problem? I'm going to do the valve adjustment procedure regardless, but I was just wondering.

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 7:21 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Another question. I'm now pretty convinced that my valves aren't adjusted properly. My car ffffits and tick-tick-ticks. If they aren't adjusted correctly, could that also be part of the hard-start problem? I'm going to do the valve adjustment procedure regardless, but I was just wondering. That can really help allot. Stock setting calls for .010 and .020. I was never very happy with that so Doc suggested that I try .012 and .022. That did the trick for me. Good restarts and a smooth idle. Quote: I do have to say that it is great that I can get the gas to squirt in there. At least it's liquid in the lines! (this was after modding the fuel line). But the hissing and vapor, is that normal? In my head, I'm guessing the fuel is getting vaporized in the carb rather than being atomized and mixed with air before going down through the intake manifold. That is interesting that you bring up this point. I have been exploring how to get better atomization from my Holley 1920 Economaster carb. I was having the same symptoms as you describe. I talked to Juan about it (see his posting on "How bout writing a carb tech article" - Argentina-Slantsixer) and discovered that my idle air bleed was plugged so the emulsion circuit was not functioning for proper atomization. The factory had put a lead plug over the hole. I have checked four other 1920's that I have and they were also plugged. So I have been on a quest to get this emulsion/atomization circuit working. All I am doing is making the single barrel function like any other two or 4 barrel carb. I drilled out the plugged hole with a .035 #65 drill to let air in the circuit. Since then I have had to jet up from a #58 to a #615 (61 1/2) to get back to the same mix because of the added air. The low speed stumble is gone and it has more low end power than before. Mileage has not gone down either, but has gone up some. So better atomization can help performance allot. Hot start ups are even better because I am not as lean anymore. The float level to keep good pressure on the needle and seat is important so you don't get the dripping and hissing that you describe. I also run a fuel regulator set at 4 lbs. to take a little pressure off the needle and seat. A good thick spacer under the carb will also help keep the carb from getting too hot. The bottom line is the carb is jetted too lean for it to die after a long run on a hot day. There are many other fixes like I described earlier, plus you can change the thermostat, run new antifreeze, raise the idle, richen the idle mixture screw, etc, etc. but those are not getting to the core of the problem with the heat soak and the carb running on the lean side. I had a 64 Valiant that did the same thing. It had a #65 jet and was very lean. A bigger jet helped allot when it was hot. Quote: The electric fan solution sounds interesting. Do you have any suggested part numbers for them? Send me your email and I can send you part numbers and wiring diagram for the electric fan. The mod costs about $100 for everything.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 10:33 am ]
Post subject:
The vapor-and-hiss when you operate the throttle with the hot engine shut off is completely normal. These engines, when in proper repair, configuration, and tune, give reasonably reliable and fast hot starts. Your situation is more challenging than some, because you are at high altitude. Be sure you're using the thick carburetor base gasket (about 3/8" thick, and add a carburetor heat shield p/n 5214 558 from your friendly local dealer or www.chryslerpartsdirect.com . Make sure you are using correct hot-starting procedure (hold the gas pedal about 1/3 of the way down without pumping while cranking the hot engine). An electric fan can indeed help knock engine temperatures down and ameliorate heat-related fuel issues after hot shutdown if it's installed with a controller that'll run the fan for a period of time (5 to 8 minutes ought to be plenty) after engine shutdown. This was a standard operation mode when electric fans first started appearing as factory equipment in the '80s, but was quickly phased out as fuel injection obviated the need to cool down the engine compartment. Another good mod that'll help with extreme heat soak issues is to add a fuel return line. This can be done by using a 3-nipple fuel filter (Wix 33054 or NAPA Gold 3054, Purolator F20030). The 3rd nipple is a vapour return. It has a 0.060" orifice and takes a ¼" hose, which you must route safely back to the fuel tank (a hassle, but it's not impossible). This helps alleviate high fuel pressure that develops between the pump and carb after shutdown. What thermostat temperature are you running in this engine?

Author:	Spacetoast [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 10:49 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: What thermostat temperature are you running in this engine? Thanks again for the info, Dan. I believe the thermostat is a 180 degree SuperStant. I'm not absolutely sure, but the guy I bought my Valiant from kept everything he pulled off the car and all the boxes for the parts he put on the car. In one of the boxes of stuff he gave me is a relatively new-looking package for a 180 Degree SupserStant thermostat. He didn't have any other old Mopars so I'm assuming that's what's in the engine. Also, the gauge never seems to indicate that the car is running hot. It is always within the normal range (as far as it can be trusted). Also, I do have the thick, 3/8" gasket between the intake manifold and carburetor. I'm glad to know the hissing is normal. See? There I go with the assumption thing again. I'm glad I asked about that.

Author:	c39 [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 1:07 pm ]
Post subject:
That Superstat p/n should be 45358 if it is a 180 degree unit for the /6.

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 1:26 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Another good mod that'll help with extreme heat soak issues is to add a fuel return line. This can be done by using a 3-nipple fuel filter (Wix 33054 or NAPA Gold 3054, Purolator F20030). The 3rd nipple is a vapour return. It has a 0.060" orifice and takes a Â¼" hose, which you must route safely back to the fuel tank (a hassle, but it's not impossible). This helps alleviate high fuel pressure that develops between the pump and carb after shutdown. Dan, on a 74 where I have a fuel return line that connects to the cannister... Could the 1/4" line off the 3054 be safely "T" into that line? If not, what would you suggest Sounds like an interesting idea that I would like to try.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 3:24 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Dan, on a 74 where I have a fuel return line that connects to the cannister There should not be a fuel return line to the charcoal can. You should have a line from the fuel tank vent, a line from the carb bowl, and a purge line. Which of these did you have in mind for your Tee-in point for the fuel filter vapour line?

Page 1 of 2	All times are UTC-08:00
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited https://www.phpbb.com/

Author:	Spacetoast [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:54 pm ]
Post subject:
Well I've had a stroke of luck and un-luck. There's a guy who visits the house across the street from mine from time to time and I've seen him drive several different old Mopars (today was a '70 pickup). I saw him out in the street and asked if he owned any Slants and he did, so I asked him if he would give mine a listen and he said sure. The car was already running and warmed up and the first thing he said was that it sounded like it was missing. So he checked all the wires with the timing light and they were all fine, then he started to pull the wires one-by-one and one of the cylinders was definitely dead. I had a compression tester so we put in on there and that cylinder only made about 60 lbs. He said I might be lucky and that the valve was just badly out of adjustment and adjusting them properly might fix it. But he also said it could be a bad valve. He also said it might explain my hot start issues if the valve wasn't closing and exhaust was backing up into the intake. So I guess I'll be adjusting valves this weekend. If that doesn't fix it, then it looks like I might be having to spend some money on it to get the valves re-done. Anyone have any idea how much something like that should cost?