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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 8:31 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2007 11:59 am
Posts: 23
Car Model:
Found a slick way to deal with that nasty little manifold bolt that hides under the choke pocket!

Advance Auto sells a Toolworks magnetic pick-up (TW-205) that has a built-in LED light on the business end. The cost is $4.88. Other jobbers have them under different brand names. First, put the triangular washer on the magnetic pickup, centering the hole over the LED. You can "aim" the washer at the stud by looking down through the tiny space between the pocket and the intake manifold. The light beam from the LED is focused well enough that it only illuminates the stud when the washer and tool are "on target". When you hit paydirt, you can insert a tiny screwdriver between the choke pocket and the manifold to pull the washer off the magnet and seat it on the manifold.

You do the nut much the same way. When you hit the target, you may or may not be able to turn the tool to start the nut on the stud. I had to stick my hand in from the front, between the block and the exhaust dump, to get the nut started. I finished tightening the nut with an offset rachet wrench. Overall, not a 2 minute job, but not hours and hours of frustration like the last time I did it.

Torquing that nut isn't going to be any easier, but jeez.......


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 Post subject: Lol...
PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 8:45 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
Car Model:
I guess I'm old fashioned...

I use the mag pickup, or a long phillips screwdriver (in this case, I just put the tip on the end of the stud, then scoot the washer off the screwdriver with another one...

I also have found that due to casting flash on the exhaust manfold in that area, you can get easier access, by taking a die grinder to the flash and still be able to get a 3/8" drive socket extension in there... (otherwise a long 1/4" drive extension becomes your buddy...)

-D.Idiot

"You want a real challenge... try your gizmo while installing a hyperpak manifold..."


Last edited by DusterIdiot on Sat Jun 21, 2008 6:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:25 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2007 11:59 am
Posts: 23
Car Model:
It worked well for me. Sorry I wasted your time.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:31 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 6:50 pm
Posts: 196
Location: walton NY
Car Model:
ive used to 10 inch rachet extenders with a socket on the end haha

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 10:26 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Aug 17, 2007 3:30 am
Posts: 945
Location: Tiegerpoort, Pretoria, South Africa
Car Model:
Quote:
It worked well for me. Sorry I wasted your time.
Hi Bud eazy there - Your way works for you and I am happy for you - no reason to blow up when some one else prefers a different method

I use both - you gonna byte my head halfway off?:twisted:

Nice little gadget 8)

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Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 12:40 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 01, 2007 1:59 pm
Posts: 830
Location: joyce wa
Car Model:
I always figure what ever works is the "correct way".My temper fuse is really short and getting shorter as I grow older.I always use a dab of permatex water pump glue(thick contact cement)on the washers/nuts and maybe a dab to hold the combo in the socket.One hand to do the fishing and one on the light,works every time for me.Works for bumper bolts an such also.Thats my story and I'm sticking to it :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 6:17 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 8:20 pm
Posts: 1603
Location: Oxford, Georgia
Car Model:
Now that's a clever solution. Last time I had to deal with that, I rolled up a length of card stock into a tightly tapered cone with both ends open, slid the washer onto the paper cone, then slid the cone over the stud. I hated the installation so much that I ended up taking a Sawzall and angle grinder to my new manifold's heat stove. (Probably a bit extreme, but my Dart isn't running a choke, either.)

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 6:41 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 27, 2006 8:21 am
Posts: 1614
Location: Orlando, FL
Car Model:
I've always pulled the engine and mounted it on and engine stand with those studs facing straight up. Use a long screw driver held on the stud tip and then let gravity do it thing.

One thing to note.
I was pulling the engine anyway for other work. :P

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 7:20 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
The easiest way is to throw the piece of shyt manifold away and put headers in like God intended. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:02 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8746
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
Quote:
The easiest way is to throw the piece of shyt manifold away and put headers in like God intended. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
It's not much easier with the Clifford Shorties, which are MUCH harder the the old "long tubes".

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 12:59 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Aug 17, 2007 3:30 am
Posts: 945
Location: Tiegerpoort, Pretoria, South Africa
Car Model:
Quote:
The easiest way is to throw the piece of shyt manifold away and put headers in like God intended. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Zilla my MAN!!

8)

Hopefully I will have my own set of long tube headers by Sept

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Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars


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