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| Removal of intake/exhaust manifolds https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=29400 |
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| Author: | Mopars4life [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 10:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | Removal of intake/exhaust manifolds |
Alright guys I need some help. Im a total backyard mechanic learn it as I go and if it breaks fix it hopefully. I trying to get to my head so I can give it a valve job. How do I remove the int/exh manifolds? I removed 12 nuts am I missing any? Exh mani moves intake does not? Talk to me. Thanks Mopars4life |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 10:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You have the exhaust pipe off? Carb off? Kickdown linkage and throttle linkage off? You should be good to go.....push down if it hasn't already fallen down and then lift up. It should break away.... |
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| Author: | Mopars4life [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 10:42 am ] |
| Post subject: | int/exh |
All removed. I will go try again. I was just being cautious I do not know if there are any more nuts I need to remove under the center of the intake manifold. The intake and exhaust are connected but I removed those bolts too. The manifolds come out as one piece ? |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 10:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yes, I believe it is 13 in all, 7 on top and 6 below. See the Super Six write up on the front page and click on Manifold Mounting Instructions * * * Manifold Installation Article Yes, both manifolds can come out together, or separately if you like. Three bolts hold the stove box together. That is the joint between the two. |
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| Author: | Mopars4life [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 10:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | ? |
Thx agressive Ted I checked the article ealier definitely informative. I think I did not remove one nut underneath. I removed 7 on top and 5 on the bottom. Where it the other one? Is it underneath the center of the intake manifold? Where the choke stove is? Man I cant see it, feel it or get any tool in there? special tool needed? or am I just lame? |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 11:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yes, three on the front down under are pretty easy to find. The three in the back bottom half are not. There is one right behind the exhaust body, under the choke pocket is hard to get to, but it is back there. Use a long extension and a light from the bottom and you will see it when looking down from the top. It is the hardest one to pull out and put back.......when the engine is in the car. I like to use nice new shinny brass nuts when I put them back. They are easier to see........besides they won't rust on....... |
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| Author: | Mopars4life [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 11:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | ? |
Thanks I'm gonna get at it right now. I appreciate the help. Mopars4life |
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| Author: | Mopars4life [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | yeh ! |
Got it !!!! That will be an ordeal trying to put that washer and nut back ! Thanks again, Mopars4life Now to remove the head !!!! |
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| Author: | Doc [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 1:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: yeh ! |
Quote: Got it !!!!
While the manifolds are off, grind yourself a little extra "working room" in that area.That will be an ordeal trying to put that washer and nut back ! Thanks again, Mopars4life Now to remove the head !!!! Sometimes there is a large raised edge (casting parting line) that blocks access to that nut, washer & stud. DD 
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| Author: | vynn3 [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 1:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: yeh ! |
Quote: Got it !!!! That will be an ordeal trying to put that washer and nut back !
Yes, just keep telling yourself it gets easier with practice...New tools you might want to look at are various sizes/lengths of socket extensions, u-joint attachments, 1/4", 3/8", and/or maybe 1/2" adapters (depending on your socket wrench), and a deep socket, as well as a wire coat hanger. Find a combination that works for you. Good luck! |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Mon Jun 09, 2008 2:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I used all 1/4" drives just because it is easier to get them in and out. On the torque I had to buy a new torque wrench that went down to 5lbs. so I had to use a 3/8 drive extensions for final torquing. The RemFlex gaskets do not require much tightening at all. I kept it right at 5 lbs. this time so the gasket is not crushed and the manifolds have the freedom to move around during expansion and contractions cycles. This helps to eliminate the potential to crack a manifold. My aluminum manifold says 10 lbs max torque. The guys at RemFlex told me to cut it in half. So I did, and the gaskets look great and seal great! It is a long story but I over torqued the first set and created some leaks. After admitting to what I did, RemFlex sent me a new set of gaskets free. This torque only applies to RemFlex graphite gaskets. www.RemFlex.com If you would like some pictures, send me your email. |
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| Author: | Mopars4life [ Tue Jun 10, 2008 9:15 am ] |
| Post subject: | Yeh ! |
Man this is great !!! With all of your help it makes things alot easier on the brain !!! I really do appreciate it. Thanks to everyone !!! And you know I will be posting more !!!!!! But the way? Any tips on replacing the timing chain and water pump or is it just nuts and bolts? |
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| Author: | Doc [ Tue Jun 10, 2008 9:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: ... Any tips on replacing the timing chain and water pump or is it just nuts and bolts?
Read-up on how to degree the cam.DD |
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