In the latest edition from Mancini Racing I came across lowering blocks for the rear axle. Has anyone had an experience with these?

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"What's wrong with rusty old cars?"-Tow Mater

The cheap die-cast lowering blocks tend to crack and are often only 2 1/4" wide. Our leaf springs are 2 1/2" wide. I bought cast iron "lift blocks" from Summit Racing for my '96 Dakota pickup. They are 2 1/2" wide and tapered front to rear to correct pinion angle. I put them in so the pinion is angled downward more and have no vibration or other issues other than the expected loss of suspension travel. Handled fine...

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Joshua

I made a 1" set out of some aluminum...with a hole and a pin so they don't fall out of place. If the mancini ones are like these, they work GREAT.

I just used bigger SS U-bolts.

I have been through 3 brands of the aluminum blocks on my '64 Dart. All cracked. I finally built a set out of 1" aluminum solid block.

Cast iron ones are better, I would bet, as Josh suggests.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

yeah, i used them on my old '64 and they cracked. In the end I found some really nice vintage ones at a swap meet and used them instead. They worked well.

Wow! I love this web site. Mancini is actually offering two sets of blocks. One they call cast aluminum and the other is "billet aluminum". Forgive my lack of knowledge but what is the difference?

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"What's wrong with rusty old cars?"-Tow Mater

To really know I suggest you do a little reading on casting (melting and pouring into a mold) and what constitutes a metal billet. Google and Wikipedia will probably get you plenty of info.

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Joshua

Billet will be better. I do not see Mancini's.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988