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 Post subject: Fiberglass Body Parts
PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 11:18 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Carrollton, TX
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So, I've been gradually buying front end parts to repair the body damage from the Swinger's run-in with a BMW M3. (Yes, my fault for rear-ending him, but even the M3 driver said he was barely able to keep from hitting the Miata in front of him. I'm pretty sure the Swinger was going to be out-braked in that situation... but still, my bad.)

Anyway, I need to replace most of the body parts up front, including the hood, passenger fender and extension, lower valance, bumper and brackets, grill and and upper grill support. While collecting parts, I've found that fiberglass versions of the fenders, hood and lower valance are available (as well as a one-piece front clip). Since the parts will need lots of prep whether I go steel or fiberglass (and I'm gonna have to learn some bodywork either way), is there any reason I shouldn't just use fiberglass and save some weight up front? Granted, there would be the extra effort and expense of replacing the driver's fender, too.

Steel parts haven't been easy to find online nor cheap to ship (not to mention the questionable condition), and there aren't many (any?) '70-72 Darts in the local salvage yards. On the other hand, fiberglass parts are (obviously) new, easy to find and might need a little less prep work.

The Swinger will no longer be a daily-driver and has been relegated to "toy" status. Any thoughts or suggestions?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 11:33 am 
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These are unit-body cars. I would have a lot of questions for a talented mechanical engineer and would need good answers to them before I'd be comfortable replacing steel with fibreglass, from a safety perspective.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 12:53 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 2:50 pm
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Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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These are unit-body cars. I would have a lot of questions for a talented mechanical engineer and would need good answers to them before I'd be comfortable replacing steel with fibreglass, from a safety perspective.
That's what went through my head when someone suggested looking for fiberglas body parts for my Duster. Good to know my line of thought was correct.

Besides, fiberglas breaks, steel can be repaired, and welded.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 1:18 pm 
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Guru
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Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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Darn... too bad you are so far away because I just pulled the motor / trans out of a 73(?) Swinger that the owner is scrapping, the front clip is in good shape and "cheap". (free?)
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 2:34 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Carrollton, TX
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Darn... too bad you are so far away because I just pulled the motor / trans out of a 73(?) Swinger that the owner is scrapping, the front clip is in good shape and "cheap". (free?)
DD
Darn! Thanks, Doc! Yeah, too bad I'm way out here. I'd certainly consider a change to the later model clip for free, but I really prefer the '72 styling over the '73 anyways.

Thanks for thinking of me, though! And anyone else who sees/hears about a good 70-72 fender and/or hood, please lemme know!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 5:54 pm 
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If it's just a toy, I would not be scared to put 'glass on it at all. However, fiberglass is one area where you really do get what you pay for. Cheap prices will mean crappy parts.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 6:10 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Besides, fiberglas breaks, steel can be repaired, and welded.
Fiberglass can be repaired, too...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 8:36 pm 
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I had fiberglass front feders on my 69 Dart for years ($125 ea).....work like charm....no rust

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 5:58 am 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
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I had fiberglass front feders on my 69 Dart for years ($125 ea).....work like charm....no rust
Fenders, hood, deck lid I would not worry about from a safety standpoint. Doors on the other hand................................................ :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 5:53 am 
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If you do go glass then I second on getting the best quality you can. I know price is always a concern, but ask around and find out from others on any brands/suppliers you are interested in.

Some glass is really thin and can cause you other issues. Some suppliers label this type as "race weight" while others don't. Also, I'd run brace rods out to help support around the wheel arches etc. Once you get to speed the wind velocity can really flex and distort the panels (again, depending on weight/thickness/quality you get) if not supported and cause you cracks and other damage to your new items.

Best of luck with it and sorry to hear about the damage.
Cheers

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 9:49 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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I had fiberglass front feders on my 69 Dart for years ($125 ea).....work like charm....no rust
Any idea what the weight savings was on the FG vs. Steel fenders?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 9:54 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Quote:
Quote:
I had fiberglass front feders on my 69 Dart for years ($125 ea).....work like charm....no rust
Any idea what the weight savings was on the FG vs. Steel fenders?
Not enough to justify the cost for weight saving alone. I have a pair of AAR fenders for my Duster. I bet there isn't 15 pounds difference between one of them and a steel one. They were $350 each IIRC. :shock:

You can buy cheaper fenders from Unlimited or WS, but they will look like crap.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 11:23 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Carrollton, TX
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I'm slowly buy surely locating steel parts. I may still go with a fiberglass hood, though. Finding and shipping decent original sheetmetal sure is a pain compared to fiber front parts or steel quarters and patches, though...

Guess I'm just lazy.

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