In preperation for installing my new head tomorrow, last weekend I lapped the valves and painted the head and valve cover. Also installed new studs in the fwd and aft holes. Made a little block-off plate for the air injection hole in the back of the head. With the exhaust valves out, I saw small holes just above the valves for air injection. Will this pose a problem of any kind if there is no pump?

Also, should I use the rocker shaft from my '73 engine, or is the '77 rocker shaft the same?

What should I set the valves at cold for initial start up?

Thanks.

The air injection holes won't make a problem. Just let 'em carbon up. Hope your air injection blockoff plate is sturdy; it's got a fairly tough sealing job (heat and pressure). The factory blockoff plate P/N 3751 249 is pretty beefy.

Either rocker shaft'll work fine; the '77 item should have "foolproofing" features so that it can only be installed the right way round.

Cold lash isn't critical; too loose is better than too tight. Shoot for about 0.015" intake and 0.025" exhaust.

No more ZFR5N spark plugs for you :-\

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan. I went today and got some Autolite 26's.....noticed on the box (when I got to work of course) they where made in China. Guess I'll see if any parts stores are open tomorrow and get some NGK's and return the junk plugs.

Eric,

Get some NGK UR4 plugs. I have been using them for a year or so now. A very smooth running plug.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Autolites now made in China, eh?

Yet another one bites the dust...that's the second one this week alone.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Did you leak-check the head after you lapped the valves? I'm a machinist, so whenever I hear someone talk about lapping valves without getting a valve job, it makes me cringe. Tilt the head on it's side with the port openings facing up, and pour some mineral spirits into each port about halfway full and watch around the valves to see if any seeps out. If there is more than 1 drip/drop every 5 seconds or so, you've still got serious leakage and you need a valve job. Not tryin' to bust balls or anything, just an honest recommendation, as valve jobs are anywhere betwee 100 and 150 dollars usually.

I forgot what fun it is to install a head in the car. My back is shot!
Anyway, it was in fact a burnt #6 exhaust valve. Instead of being round, it was kinda trying to turn into a square! To think I drove it like that....

defrag010, the head has had some work done to it before I got it, as there where some Sealed Power valves installed sometime recently, and the seats and valves looked very good...no pitting or signs of wear. They cleaned up nicly.

One thing I noticed in the old head: The exhaust valves and spark plugs all had a yellow tint to them, and the combustion chambers and tops of the pistons where very thick with carbon. I figured the yellow tint was just from gas additives, but with my driving distances (80 mile round trip commute) at freeway speeds 95% of the time, the carbon really suprised me. Anything I can do to prevent this in the future?

Its like a new car...I cant feel it run and its nice and quiet. Woo Hoo!

If you have carbon and the engine isn't running cold or burning oil then you're running rich.

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Joshua

Eric,

What do you figure your compression ratio is now?

Since the gas up here does carbon up more than Oregon or California fuel, I run the water injection once a month and it cleans right up. You could always run a little Seafoam now and then too. When ever I head south to Oregon or California the fuel is always better quality and hotter and the mileage goes up! Now that I have modified the Holley 1920 Economaster so the emulsion circuit works by drilling out the idle air bleed, the engine stays much cleaner than before.

I wonder if going to a hotter coil, like a inner fender mounted E-Core coil would help?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Why no more ZFR5N?

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

Donno what they did down there, but up here the '75+ heads take taper-seat mini "peanut" spark plugs rather than the ordinary gasket-seat type, and the projected-electrode ZFR5N or equivalent isn't made in a taper-seat variant.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

OOOOO okay

BTW While we are on the subject of heads Head mod is on the way

I did a few simulations and it is quite clear the 225 slant is strangled

Specs 8.4 CR with 244 seat to seat .414lift Formula S cam

Just changed head by adding 1.7 1.44 valves and assciated porting - got the flow figures from a local shop hope it is acurate

But porting the head keeping the CR same anding bigger valves givs a huge improvement

Bumping up th cr less so

Now how good is the engine builder valves

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention yesterday that the head was from a hydraulic engine. So I had to use the aft bolt from the new head with my old rocker arm shaft. Funny, I never noticed the new rockers had no adjusters on them! I also didn't pick up on the clue that a spare valve cover I had didn't fit after I painted the head last week.

Glad to hear you got the old girl purring like a kitten again E.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I like my car again. A "Good thing".