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I want to put a /6 in my Triumph TR7!! Need some info!!
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=29918
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Author:  cooked [ Tue Jul 08, 2008 7:57 am ]
Post subject:  I want to put a /6 in my Triumph TR7!! Need some info!!

I have been thinking about putting a slant 6 in my TR7 for years now. I have bought a larger house now that has a large enough garage that I can start working on it. The drivetrain in it now is from a European Ford Capri 2.8L v6 and running gear. Unfortunatly the 4bbl intake I have for it "Offenhauser" requires that I put a hole in the hood for the air cleaner to poke through, I have also been looking at a ford small block setup?? What I need to know is what are the external dimensions of a slant-6?? Also did they ever have a rear sumped or front sump oil pan?? The oil pans I have seen on the net appear to be mid sumped which I think will be right where the crossmember is on the TR7. The slant-6 should hopefully fit under that wedge shaped hood nicely as the original 4-banger was slanted as well. Thanks

Author:  Dart270 [ Tue Jul 08, 2008 8:37 am ]
Post subject: 

Sounds like an awesome project. I recommend a T5 trans if you can afford it and deal with the swap.

I don't know exact dimensions, but a Slant is about 26" long at block and head. I would go for a 170 or a stroked 170 (with 198 crank).

Trucks had rear sump pans. Cars were mid sump. Some industrial apps had front sump?? Someone on here might have one.

Happy fabbing,

Lou

Author:  cooked [ Tue Jul 08, 2008 9:10 am ]
Post subject: 

Thanks Lou!! I really think these motors are under appreciated and overlooked! I'd really like to find an aluminum block slanter! Why do you recommend a 170ci motor? Thanks

Author:  Dart270 [ Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:56 am ]
Post subject: 

Only 225s were made in aluminum.

170 is 1.5" shorter block height than a 225, and if you go with a 198 crank you can easily get over 200". 10 % fewer cubes, but more compact package for your small car.

Lou

Author:  ceej [ Tue Jul 08, 2008 11:01 am ]
Post subject: 

That sounds like a project!
:shock:

I would expect that the firewall needs to be modified to fit the slant in there. It's a pretty long engine compared to the 4's or even the Capri's V6.

Anything is possible with the desire to make it work! :D

I saw a GT6 sporting a 351-C some years back. Where there's a will, and a couple of dollars, there's a way.

That'd be a cool install! Keep us posted!

CJ

Author:  slantvaliant [ Tue Jul 08, 2008 11:14 am ]
Post subject: 

Even if you decide against it, please take some photos and pass on your measurements, calculations, et cetera for the other loonies ... err ... members who might be tempted to do something similar.

As the math teachers used to say, "Show your work." :D

Author:  Joshie225 [ Tue Jul 08, 2008 11:31 am ]
Post subject: 

Dang, that's a little engine compartment for a slant. A second generation Mazda RX-7 though has a relatively huge engine bay and a big trans tunnel. I could turn my stalled V8 transplant into a slant transplant. 8)

Author:  cooked [ Tue Jul 08, 2008 11:39 am ]
Post subject: 

UH...OH... that will truly piss the rotary purists off!!! I dare you to do it :twisted: !!! I am quite familiar with using sheetmetal as my family and I own a CNC sheetmetal punching and forming shop along with up to date ESAB welding equipment. So I'm up for a little firewall adjustments!! I really love the walkaround video of the dart with the Hyper pack setup on youtube! Beauty of a car and I absolutlely love the engine note!

Author:  65 dartman [ Tue Jul 08, 2008 12:37 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
UH...OH... that will truly piss the rotary purists off!!! I dare you to do it :twisted: !!!
There are quite a few people doing V8 swaps (mostly Chebby, some Ferds and now Mopars as well). Take a look at www.grannysspeedshop.com .

Author:  Joshie225 [ Tue Jul 08, 2008 12:58 pm ]
Post subject: 

I've over the Granny's web site many times. I decided to roll my own mounts as this was originally going to be a Grass Roots Motorsports challenge car and I needed to keep the budget in check. If I do put a slant in the car I'll need something that will wind up pretty good as the only gear choice for the differential is 4.10. I'm thinking a 170 or low deck stroker would do. Also need a truck/van oil pan and dipstick.

Author:  cooked [ Tue Jul 08, 2008 3:19 pm ]
Post subject: 

I got some Tr7 engine bay dimensions FYI which were'nt that hard to get seeing how the engine/transmission are out. Shock tower to shock tower= 32 3/8", length of engine bay from transmission tunnel lip to radiator/hood mounting point= 31" , vertical measurement from K-member to hood line= 23 3/8", firewall to the back of the k-member= 16", and approx 33" from the floor to the top of the firewall where the hoodline meet. Now I just need some engine dimensions!!! I want to start on this slanted-wedge!! :lol:

Author:  slantzilla [ Tue Jul 08, 2008 6:44 pm ]
Post subject: 

I have a buddy who put a Slant in a TR-3 years ago. It has a hole in the hood, and IIRC, he had to move the radiator in front of the core support, but everything did fit nicely. I have no clue how much bigger/smaller the engine bay is on a TR-7 though. :shock:

Author:  cooked [ Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:14 am ]
Post subject: 

Can anyone please measure the width of their engine from the side of the valve cover to the side of the air cleaner, I also need the length from the back of the valve cover to the front of the water pump pulley. If its possible I need to know the height of the motor at its frontal point. I would appreciate it!

Author:  oklahoma joe [ Wed Jul 09, 2008 4:56 pm ]
Post subject:  tr7

I had a TR7 quite a few years ago. Getting rid of that slant 4 with a internal water pump is a great idea it is truly a poorly designed engine. If the water pump goes and it will. It dumps all the coolant into the engine. Great design!
Before you start putting lots of work into the car there are a few things you need to check.

1. The rear end
They are weak and have been known to self destruct with the output of the four banger. Pinion bearings go out. Had to replace mine.
They made a small v8 version in their last year of production (1980 I think) maybe that car had a tougher rearend if you can find one.

2. The mounts for the rear lower trailing arms.
The ones just behind/below the passenges and drivers seats like to rust out and will rip out from under the car. leaving you with no rear end and two gapping holes. Had this happen to me also.

Other than that it was a great handling car that had a nice look to it.

Joe

Author:  oklahoma joe [ Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:05 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Can anyone please measure the width of their engine from the side of the valve cover to the side of the air cleaner, I also need the length from the back of the valve cover to the front of the water pump pulley. If its possible I need to know the height of the motor at its frontal point. I would appreciate it!
hERE ARE SOME MEASUREMENTS OFF A STOCK 225 W1964 VITAGE WITH THE SMALLISH KIND OF TALL AIR CLEANER AND A TWO BARREL CARTER CARB (SUPER SIX) Image
22" FROM SIDE OF VALVE COVER TO OTHER SIDE OF AIR CLEANER WITH SOME CLERENCE FOR PLUG WIRES.

32" FROM BACK OF VALVE COVER TO FRONT OF FAN BLADES.

25" FROM TOP OF K MEMBER TO TOP OF AIR CLEANER.

21" FROM OUTSIDE EDGE OF STOCK MOTOR MOUNT TO OUT SIDE EDGE OF OTHER MOPTOR MOUNT.

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