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 Post subject: rough running slant six
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2001 9:07 pm 
ok i have a 1965 dodge dart wagon with a 225 slant six in it. it runs a little rough, i have checked the carb, timing seemed to help a little bit, anything else could be causing this? do i need to adjust the valves? the car was sitting for about 3-4 years and has recently come back to life. thanks. It is rough at idle but when it speeds up it smoothes out.

ksjo923@Hotmail.com


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2001 9:14 pm 
Quote:
: ok i have a 1965 dodge dart wagon with a 225
: slant six in it. it runs a little rough, i
: have checked the carb, timing seemed to help
: a little bit, anything else could be causing
: this? do i need to adjust the valves? the
: car was sitting for about 3-4 years and has
: recently come back to life. thanks. It is
: rough at idle but when it speeds up it
: smoothes out.


Adjusting the valves is a very good idea, especially if it mainly runs rough at idle.

Cheers,

Lou


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2001 9:49 pm 
Quote:
: Adjusting the valves is a very good idea,
: especially if it mainly runs rough at idle.
:
: Cheers,
:
: Lou


cool, thanks. I haven't had to adjust the valves before how do i go about doing that?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2001 8:24 am 
Quote:
: cool, thanks. I haven't had to adjust the
: valves before how do i go about doing that?


I suggest buying a Chilton's repair manual, or maybe Haynes has it too, OR use the search function here with words like "lash" and "valve". It is pretty simple.

Lou


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2001 9:23 am 
Quote:
: ok i have a 1965 dodge dart wagon with a 225
: slant six in it. it runs a little rough, i
: have checked the carb, timing seemed to help
: a little bit, anything else could be causing
: this? do i need to adjust the valves? the
: car was sitting for about 3-4 years and has
: recently come back to life. thanks. It is
: rough at idle but when it speeds up it
: smoothes out.


I really need to post a nice article on how to adjust the valves on a SL6, it makes the engine run so much better when the "lash" is set correctly and it is becomming a "lost art" in todays "repair by swapping parts" auto service world.

I pulled this up from below:

...Now that we can tell the "Solids" (adjustable rockers) from the Hydraulics and seeing most SL6 engines are the "adjustable" type (solid lifters) how should you adjust these?? Here are some tips:

The engine must be hot.

Once valve cover is off, I check the torque on the head bolts, if they don't move ("crack") by 75 ft.lbs, go to the next, follow the "center-outward" sequence. Also check to see if all the rocker arms are oiling out the center and tip holes. If not, now is the time to change them.

I do my adjustment with the engine running, so turn the idle down as low as possible and put some cardboard under the car. (if you want your floor to stay clean!)

I start with the intakes, stock cams adjust at .010, watch for the TWO INTAKES side by side in the center of the row (Cylinders 3&4) use the manifolds as your guide.

Come back around for the exhaust valves, they should be plenty hot by now,(remember, the engine is running and you are "feeling" the clearance between the "hits", if unsure, stop the engine for a moment and recheck to help establish your "feel"

The exhaust is set at .020 but shoot for looser to start. (.021 - .022) Find a setting where the idle is smooth but the lifters are mostly quite, yes "mostly" quite, they should make a small bit of ticking noise when correct. When you have things set right, each cylinder should "miss" slightly when you insert the "feeler gauge", this "hangs" the valve open, causing the minor miss.

If you want to try to "sneek-into" a minor bit of performance increase, try setting the intake valves a bit tighter, .008 instead of the .010
If the engine starts running rougher at idle, Go Back To .010, if the idle stays smooth,....how about @ .007? This puts a small bit more duration on the intake valve event, this also works in "consept" with the exhaust but there is way more "risk" of a "choppy idle" and burned exhaust valves, so .020, may-be .019 (HOT) is about as tight as I would go. Bottomline, these lash settings have some "leeway", a little tighter or looser is OK, as long as a smooth idle is maintained.

That's it, Button it up and go for a drive.
DD


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2001 1:17 pm 
Quote:
: I really need to post a nice article on how to
: adjust the valves on a SL6, it makes the
: engine run so much better when the
: "lash" is set correctly and it is
: becomming a "lost art" in todays
: "repair by swapping parts" auto
: service world.
:
: I pulled this up from below: ...Now that we can
: tell the "Solids" (adjustable
: rockers) from the Hydraulics and seeing most
: SL6 engines are the "adjustable"
: type (solid lifters) how should you adjust
: these?? Here are some tips: The engine must
: be hot.
:
: Once valve cover is off, I check the torque on
: the head bolts, if they don't move
: ("crack") by 75 ft.lbs, go to the
: next, follow the "center-outward"
: sequence. Also check to see if all the
: rocker arms are oiling out the center and
: tip holes. If not, now is the time to change
: them.
:
: I do my adjustment with the engine running, so
: turn the idle down as low as possible and
: put some cardboard under the car. (if you
: want your floor to stay clean!)
:
: I start with the intakes, stock cams adjust at
: .010, watch for the TWO INTAKES side by side
: in the center of the row (Cylinders 3&4) use
: the manifolds as your guide.
:
: Come back around for the exhaust valves, they
: should be plenty hot by now,(remember, the
: engine is running and you are
: "feeling" the clearance between
: the "hits", if unsure, stop the
: engine for a moment and recheck to help
: establish your "feel"
:
: The exhaust is set at .020 but shoot for looser
: to start. (.021 - .022) Find a setting where
: the idle is smooth but the lifters are
: mostly quite, yes "mostly" quite,
: they should make a small bit of ticking
: noise when correct. When you have things set
: right, each cylinder should "miss"
: slightly when you insert the "feeler
: gauge", this "hangs" the
: valve open, causing the minor miss.
:
: If you want to try to "sneek-into" a
: minor bit of performance increase, try
: setting the intake valves a bit tighter,
: .008 instead of the .010
: If the engine starts running rougher at idle,
: Go Back To .010, if the idle stays
: smooth,....how about @ .007? This puts a
: small bit more duration on the intake valve
: event, this also works in
: "consept" with the exhaust but
: there is way more "risk" of a
: "choppy idle" and burned exhaust
: valves, so .020, may-be .019 (HOT) is about
: as tight as I would go. Bottomline, these
: lash settings have some "leeway",
: a little tighter or looser is OK, as long as
: a smooth idle is maintained.
:
: That's it, Button it up and go for a drive.
: DD

I also adjust my valves hot and running but without a feeler gage. Back in the early 70's when my father was alive he showed me how to ajust valves with a long wood handled screwdriver, the kind where the steel runs all the way through the handle.Set the idle as low as possible hold the ajusting wrench with one handand hold the screwdriver to the rockerarm close to the center ( less movement there), put the handle to your ear. You will hear TAP TAP, tighten alittle. tap tap, tighten a little, tic tic, tighten a little and you will probably start to hear "shlunk" "shlunk" You are now at 0 clearance,too tight back off to "tic" "tic" do all 12 rockers this way and your done. I would do this when ever I do a tuneup and the /6 I built 10 years ago,torn down showed no vave burn. just my 2 cents Bruce

magicalbus@hotmail.com


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2002 3:01 pm 
Quote:
: I also adjust my valves hot and running but
: without a feeler gage. Back in the early
: 70's when my father was alive he showed me
: how to ajust valves with a long wood handled
: screwdriver, the kind where the steel runs
: all the way through the handle.Set the idle
: as low as possible hold the ajusting wrench
: with one handand hold the screwdriver to the
: rockerarm close to the center ( less
: movement there), put the handle to your ear.
: You will hear TAP TAP, tighten alittle. tap
: tap, tighten a little, tic tic, tighten a
: little and you will probably start to hear
: "shlunk" "shlunk" You
: are now at 0 clearance,too tight back off to
: "tic" "tic" do all 12
: rockers this way and your done. I would do
: this when ever I do a tuneup and the /6 I
: built 10 years ago,torn down showed no vave
: burn. just my 2 cents Bruce


Hi,

Has anyone checked what the clearence when cold. I have a 78 LeBaron slant 6 and to pull the valve cover is hell with all the hoses arcing over it. It is even worse trying to get it off a hot engine.

Thank you

Paul B
<A HREF="mailto:raven@empire.net">raven@empire.net</A>

raven@empire.net


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