I got my 1970 dart swinger 225 about a year ago, and except for a few electrical problems, it's been running perfectly. But, lately it's been stalling when I put it into gear after I restart (no matter the temperature). In order to keep it from stalling over and over, I have to quickly put it in gear and really rev it up, which doesn't really work in parking lots. After going above 30mph for a couple minutes, it runs fine. But, if I don't keep the revs up for that long and I am sitting at idle, it starts to shake, like it's about to die. I know that there have been quite a few posts about this, but I am 17 and this is my first car, and my technical knowledge isn't that great. The car has a new fuel tank, new plugs, new fuel lines, etc. and the Holley 1920 carb. Any help would be great, as this is a very annoying problem.

Where are you located? Does it happen only once the engine's warmed up? Or does it happen with the engine cold, too? It sounds to me like a hot-fuel issue. Make sure the manifold heat control valve is working correctly — with the engine cold, grasp the ~3" round disc facing the front of the car and located in the central collector part of the exhaust manifold. Rotate it counterclockwise (top moves towards the engine). It should rotate easily against spring tension. Then let go, and it should spring back to its original position.

You may want to consider doing the fuel line mod, as well as checking the float level (and possibly replacing the float) in your carburetor, depending on how old it is and how many rebuilds it's been through.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I am located in Riverside, CA (outside of L.A.). It only happens when the engine is warmed up (usually after the second or third start-up that day). I'll check what you said tomorrow morning, and see what happens. Thanks for the reply.

Mm, yeah, California "reformulated" gasoline seems to have a greater tendency to create heat-related problems in old cars like ours. Also, '70 was the first year for the evaporative emission control system, on California cars only. The fuel tank and carburetor both connect to the engine crankcase, where fuel vapours are stored when the engine's shut off. Everything has to be hooked up correctly and the fuel cap has to be the right one.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan,

Any potential problems with a locking gas cap?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

None, as long as it's the correct type of cap (pressure-vacuum).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I turned the metal disc and it sprang back to its original place. I am attaching 2 pics of my gas cap, because I don't know if it is original. Another problem I have been having is that I cannot fill up the gas tank all the way. I can only fill up to about 3/4 of the tank, before I get back pressure, and the fuel starts to come back up. So I have only been filling up half way. Maybe the California emissions system is having issues?

http://picasaweb.google.com/RobertVarga88/GasCap

Ah, this is significant; it means your fuel tank venting system, which is rather complex on the '71s plus California '70s, is out of order. See this post, this one, and this one. I believe your fuel cap is not correct; I think you need a pressure-vacuum cap, but I'm unable to confirm this 100% because my '70-'71 Factory Parts Catalogue is missing the fuel caps. I don't mean the page is gone, I mean they failed to include part code 14-86-35. We jump directly from 14-86-32 to 14-86-38; they just plain left the gas caps out of the manual! Anyone else got a '70-'71 FPC, maybe a different printing (mine's December '71)? Going by proxy, the fuel filler tube is different for '70 with vs. without ECS, so I think your cap is almost certainly the wrong one. This is going to make problems; the '70-'71 caps are hard to find.

You do have a factory service manual, right?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yes, I do have the Factory Service Manual, and I see the Clean Air system that you are talking about. It is kind of confusing, and I can see where there could be many problems.

Would this be the right style of gas cap, as it is for 71-76 cars which had the ECS system?

http://www.frederickdodgemoparspeedshop ... 971/Detail

Nope...that'll fit late 1971 cars, but not early '71s or California '70 models. See this thread for recent discussion.

"Early" is before May 1971. "Late" is after May 1971. No closer detail is available, so cars built in May of 1971 are probably a grab bag.

The '70 California and Early '71 caps are hard to find. You may find yourself installing a '73-'76 fuel filler tube to have access to easily-found caps. I've solved the '60-'66 cap availability problem (will have 'em on hand for sale shortly) and am looking at the '70-'71 situation to see if it can be solved economically.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

But besides the gas cap, what do you think the problem would be on why I can't fill up all the way, and why it stalls so often? Installing a new fuel filler tube does not sound very fun. The tank on my car was replaced by the last owner, who was a former Chrysler mechanic, so he may have just grabbed an extra fuel filler cap that he had, as he has many factory original parts at his garage.

Ahh, the plot thickens! I can think of three different tanks that will physically fit your car. It's possible the previous owner used something other than the correct one, which is a '70-California plus '71-everywhere unit. In order to advise you on how to fix the can't-fill problem, we'll need to figure out exactly what's been put in the car. Check to see if it has the four vent fittings (one at each upper corner) or if there's only one single vent fitting at the top front of the tank. Check for the presence and correct hookup of the vapour can in the forward left corner of the trunk, up against the left rear wheelwell.

One way or another, your tank isn't vented properly. Either this is directly preventing you filling it all the way up, or, if the tank vent has truly been screwed up and the tank has no vent at all, the tank may be partially collapsed.

The stalling issue may or may not be significantly related to the tank venting issue, depending on how the tank and carb bowl are now hooked up (or not hooked up, or plugged off, etc.)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I am assuming that you have to drop the tank in order to check. The problem is that I cannot do that right now because our other car is having it's timing belt replaced, and we need my car to get around for a few days. But, if that is the case, I will check it in a couple days when the other car is finished.

Ok, I see in my service manual and after reading what you posted, that there should be something in my trunk, a vapor-liquid separator. I don't see it, unless I am looking in the wrong place. I'm not really sure what I am looking for, because the manual doesn't show what it looks like.

It's a metal can, about 2½" diameter by about 12" tall, leaning at about a 45° angle on the left rear wheelwell, ahead of the fuel filler pipe.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.