I have the Dutra split manifold. Pretty cool looking. I knew taking the original manifold off was challenging. But putting it back together is a nightmare. So I am wondering what I might be missing. When trying to put the lower triangular washer on the bottom row of the manifolds, I finally used a screwdriver to line up the washer, to get it on the stud. But when I went to put on the nut, there is a huge problem. I can't start the nut. By huge fingers don't fit in there, to tighten them. On the top studs, I have all the washers and nuts started, but barely. If I tighten them most of the way in, but not tight, would that help? Or do I need to find a neighbor with small fingers?

To get it started you can use an extension and shallow socket (1/4" ratchet type)... that will get them started, you can then go for a deep socket to torque them down after that...

-D.Idiot

Thanks. I will give that a shot.

That's it, a shallow 1/4" drive socket with some toilet paper, or t-shirt stuffed in there so the brass nut sits flush with the face of the socket and one long and one short extension.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

out of curiosity, how does one keep the ports aligned on the front exhaust manifold when installing dual exhaust manifolds? Seems to me the rear is supported by the intake, but the front just hangs off of the front-most stud. How do you guys install these and make sure they line up? Prefit them on the gasket and outline the manifold with white-out?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

If you look inside the Dutra front piece you will see it has a very LARGE into the manifold holes. Just eye ball the alignment it will work fine.

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Well, that socket worked out okay for the front bottom stud. Come the second stud, I ran into a different problem. The Dutra manifold shoots upwards. And it hits the bottom of the intake manifold. This blocks any direct extension to go in there. I tried an extension that bends in the middle. And it doesn't get the right angle.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn13 ... roblem.jpg

Any suggestions? Thanks.

OOPS, I see I goofed. You said 1/4". I was using 3/8". I will try the 1/4 this time. I believe that will work.

That didn't work either. I believe what I really need is a one inch extension. Makes me wonder what other special things I will have to buy, to install this the rest of the way.

When it became obvious that I would be removing/replacing the manifolds on my slant every so often, I took the opportunity to stock up on a few tools. I spend $20-30 and bought a variety of 1/4" and 3/8" extensions in different lengths, adapters, u-joints, deep sockets, etc., rather than just the one size I thought I'd need. Saved a lot of time, and I've since used those tools on other work besides the manifolds, now that they were available. If you have a few extra bucks, that's what I'd recommend.

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vm

I tried the 1/4 " ratchet, but the only socket I had that was not a deep socket, I had in the 3/8" drive. But I bought a 1/5" extension for both drives. The 3/8" was just to big to work down there. To make up for the socket that was a little deep, I put in two nuts. But to work in that down in that area, I had to tip it, and of course the nuts got happy, and escaped full blast. I tried to pull my hair, but remembered I was bald. Bummer.

So now I am emailing Doug, to see what I am missing. As those triangular washers are a booger to get in there. And even then, I don't see anything on the Dutra manifold where it should attach. It is like a header port.

63dartdude,

You could always hang the exhaust first and put all the lower nuts on ahead of time. Then add the intake afterwords and the top row of washers and nuts. I have found that it is a lot easier. I used some studs that were a little longer than stock and that helps too.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Yeah, I tried that first thing this morning. The intake manifold grabbed the triangular washer, but cleared the nut. I emailed Doug Dutra this morning. But another buddy of mine said maybe swapping out the studs to longer studs may help. I will wait, and see what Doug says, but keep that longer stud idea as my next option. Thanks.

When I did my headers, I ised a short wrench, and with the starter out, was able to snake my hand in behind the tubes.....this is for Clifford shorty headers though.I have not added the DD's to jessicas car yet......that is coming thiough!! But thought I would add my 2 cents to the onfo.
Andrew

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Wife's: 64 Valiant
My: 70 Road Runner, 67 Barracuda, AND the 62 Valiant drag car!!

I've posted this before but,Glue like 3m weatherstrip or permatex gasket glue.Just glue the nut to the washer and glue the nut into the socket.It won't fall out(get happy) and it holds it good enuf for starting.The socket will come right off after you snug it up as it's not a real metal to metal glue.The socket will clean up easy and the glue left on the nut/washer will pert much smoke off when you fire it up.Been using that little trick for 30/40 years on all kinds of SOB stuff Of course on the slant you still have to be a human pretzal

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed