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Super rich hot soak starting
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30076
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Author:  hdtpbelvedere [ Sat Jul 19, 2008 9:41 am ]
Post subject:  Super rich hot soak starting

Hey guys. I have a bad vapor lock? problem on my B-100. I have done the
fuel line mod, and it helped a little, but I think the fuel is boiling in the float bowl of the carb. My question is "did anyone ever install a heat shield under the carb?" I know that the engine bay on a van is not the best at letting the heat dissipate from the engine, so I thought a heat shield would help. Any thoughts? By the way, this is a Holley 1945 carb:roll: and I have an aluminum intake.

Thank you in advance
Brad

Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sat Jul 19, 2008 9:57 am ]
Post subject:  Yep..

If you've seen the 1975+ cars that are still all OEM, the factory installed a heatsheild that sandwiched under the carb...

Check to see which carb gasket you're using, if it's a thin one, pitch it and see if you can get a thick one under there...(I know that there are some issues with the doghouse, so hopfully you can get some insulation away from the manifold...)

Good Luck,

-D.Idiot

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat Jul 19, 2008 10:53 am ]
Post subject: 

Make sure the carburetor has the correct 3/8" thick phenolic insulator under it.

Make sure the carburetor's float hasn't become fuel-soaked. Check the float settings and make sure they're not too high. And yes, also check to make sure the choke isn't closing upon shutdown even in the hot.

Install a new inlet needle and seat in the carb.

Purchase from the dealer and install a carburetor heat shield p/n 5214 558 (it's also nice if you can get the heat shield extension 4105 070, but this is showing NLA. Perhaps your dealer is friendly enough to look and see if anyone's still got one):

Image

Make sure your thermostatic air cleaner is working correctly so as to duct cold air to the carburetor when the engine's warm.

Install a 180° thermostat; my preference is Stant SuperStat #45358.

Make sure your ignition system is in top condition through and through.

More advanced (=more difficult and costly) heat-soak countermeasures include installing an electric radiator fan with a controller that allows several minutes' fan runtime after engine shutdown to cool down the engine bay. You can also wrap the exhaust manifold and the headpipe with Thermo-Tec wrap, which will do a lot to keep the exhaust system from heating up the engine bay.

Image

This owner has also wrapped the intake, which is not normally done, but would add to the insulation. He has not wrapped the collector of the exhaust manifold or the headpipe, which would be a help in your situation (but probably is not needed in his big, empty '62 B-body engine bay).

Author:  hdtpbelvedere [ Sat Jul 19, 2008 11:22 am ]
Post subject: 

Thanks for all the info guys, I'll call the dealer this week about the heat shield. I have a 3/8 insulator under the carb, and the float and needle/seat seems ok. No burrs, or torn seal on the needle. The air cleaner is the stock one, and I may need to fabricate an intake hose that goes from the air cleaner snout to a fresh/cold air source. But I think the heat shield will help.
Thanks again!
Brad

Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Sat Jul 19, 2008 7:21 pm ]
Post subject: 

Brad,

Send me your email and I will share some pictures of the one I made for my engine. I am running a 3/8" stock phenolic gasket, then an aluminum plate, then another stock gasket on top of the plate.

No more heat soak even on super hot days! :D

Author:  hdtpbelvedere [ Thu Jul 24, 2008 5:49 pm ]
Post subject: 

Well, things may be changing. A buddy of mine at work has a Holley 2280 carb from a '69 Charger 318, so I may just install the 2bbl. Problem is finding the linkage and trans kickdown for a van. Looks like a trip to the boneyard is in order.
Has anyone tried making the 1bbl manifold into a 2bbl manifold? I saw the threads about it, and wondered how it would work. I like the idea of having the carb in line with the engine. Seems like the fuel would be distributed better. My manifold is aluminum, and I know someone who can weld aluminum. Any thoughts? Maybe if I went that route I could re-use the stock linkage and kickdown rod. (re-adjusting of course) Thanks
Brad

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat Jul 26, 2008 6:58 pm ]
Post subject: 

Parallel-mount 1bbl to 2bbl intake manifold conversion

Author:  Wesola78 [ Tue Jul 29, 2008 7:45 am ]
Post subject: 

Here is my two cents: Get an Offenhauser 4bbl intake, and get (or make) a 2bbl to 4bbl carb adapter. It'll look trick, and save a little weight.

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