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rack and pinion A body https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30165 |
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Author: | Sam Powell [ Wed Jul 23, 2008 9:18 pm ] |
Post subject: | rack and pinion A body |
Unisteer ( I think I have that right), is producing a bolt on rack and pinion setup for the A body car. It is not out yet, but is due out before the summer is out. Do you think this is worth the cost, (about $1200) which includes , in addition to the rack, and mounting brackets, tied rod ends, steering column coupling, u joint, and lower shaft. I asked my front end man, who is an avid street rod builder what he thought, and he kind of shook his head and said, "Not if you aren;t racing the car". I am wondering if that is a correct assesment. Nearly all production daily driven street cars have rack and pinion. Is it just cheaper, or better? I know it would save some weight. It bolts onto the gear box mounts and the idler arm mount, and sits behind the K frame. One saftey advantage is that the steering column would not longer be a spear aimed right at your heart in a head on. Sam |
Author: | dakight [ Thu Jul 24, 2008 1:24 am ] |
Post subject: | |
There are a couple of those available. I saw one in Vegas last year and if I recall correctly, it was at about that same price point. R&P steering will probably have somewhat lower turning resistance and better road feel. On the other hand, if it isn't done properly and carefully the steering geometry can be adversely affected. For me, I have better places to put that $1200.00. |
Author: | sandy in BC [ Thu Jul 24, 2008 6:11 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Lou and I discussed this last summer. I think it could be done at home for,a couple ofhundred dollars. Im not sure it would be a whole lot better than the stock box. I put R+P in my mudbogger....lost 65 lbs and inproved the steering considerably. A bodies are very different though.... |
Author: | Dart270 [ Thu Jul 24, 2008 7:01 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I think the main advantage would be weight savings (maybe 30lbs, or 50-60 if you have power now), and maybe some steering effort. The stock Mopar manual steering setup is quite nice and light weight for that design. I'd look hard at their geometries, like the points where the inner ball joint ends line up with the LCA pivot points. If they are not the same width - bump steer or related issues. If those guys would supply weights and geometry numbers, I'd like to look them over. Personally, I am thinking about a front steer r'n'p with tubular K-frame and custom steering arms from capautoproducts.com for Project V. I have a million questions for him before I buy, though. (Sorry for the high buck option Sandy! ![]() I've thought of doing my own too, and it doesn't look too hard. Just have to find the right r'n'p width or order a custom one. Lou |
Author: | slantzilla [ Thu Jul 24, 2008 9:00 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Unisteer is junk. They have been a very hot topic on Moparts a few times. The stuff just plain doesn't fit, and the guys who did get the kit to "bolt-in" could not get the car aligned. Customer service appears to end when the check clears too. The owner of Unisteer was even on there once claiming that he had sold "thousands" of kits for Mopars and never heard even one complaint. He could/would not provide any proof of his claim, nor would he even attempt to help any of the customers with their issues. The biggest trick to converting to R&P is to find a rack that is the proper width for an A-body with the right length tie rods. The wrong width changes the arc of the tie rods and causes bump steer and Ackerman problems. It is even worse if you try to convert to front steer from our normal rear steer. A much easier way to eliminate 30 pounds is to call Jenny Craig. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Author: | emsvitil [ Thu Jul 24, 2008 1:39 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Quote: A much easier way to eliminate 30 pounds is to call Jenny Craig.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() And you'll be better looking too........... ![]() |
Author: | Sam Powell [ Thu Jul 24, 2008 4:28 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
It's nice to get clear, direct, uncomplicated opinions. ![]() The final alignment was 4.5 degrees positive caster, and .2-.4 degrees nagative camber. It drives about as well as a power steering box will, I think. When I drove it to the alignment shop, I had set the alignment myself by eye, and with the aid of a level, and had gotten it to about 2.5 on the caster. It rode smoother, with less impact from road bumps and stuff, but it had less directional sability with the lower caster setting. So it seems you can have it either way, smooth ride, or good road feel, and directional stability. But maybe not both. The funny thing is, I was trying to talk him into setting at 4 degrees and he was trying to talk me into going with 3 dgrees. In the end he did it my way, so I guess I should be happy now, right. It is amazing how upping the caster setting changes the nature of the car. For now, R&P is off the table. Thanks again for sharing your opinions. Sam |
Author: | Dart270 [ Fri Jul 25, 2008 6:12 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I have 4.5 deg pos caster and 1.5 neg camber on the 64 and it works very well. No weird tire wear and handles... nicely. I wouldn't touch pwr steering on an A body, but that's just me - maybe for autoX. Dennis, glad to hear I don't have to think about or mess around with Unisteer. I don't like the look of their design anyway. Most people do not take care on the rack width and steering arms... Lou |
Author: | slantzilla [ Sat Jul 26, 2008 2:49 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Lou, after getting into the whole tube K/rac and pinion deal I watch very closely for what people who really have the stuff say. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me. ![]() |
Author: | Sam Powell [ Sun Jul 27, 2008 7:02 am ] |
Post subject: | |
What was your experience Dennis? Did you have a bad experience with one of these aftermarket suspension companies? Sam |
Author: | Dart270 [ Sun Jul 27, 2008 8:26 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Thanks, Dennis. I agree totally and am trying to get more info. I have LCAs and strut rod kits from this guy and they seem very nice. About to try out. I'm also grilling him on all the geometry issues. Lou |
Author: | volaredon [ Mon Jul 28, 2008 6:14 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Anyone watch the show "Two Guys garage"? They had a R&P setup on there that they were promoting (every show they do a few products) and I don't remember the brand name, but they did say something about "68-72 A bodies"; I E mailed in to see if that was Generic Motors A bodies or Mopar A bodies; (I don't keep up on Shivvys; I'm not even sure which cars that would be; a Nova? I just know I've heard talk about their "A bodies") I never got the answer that I wanted; just told to "go to the company's website for that answer) but judging by the "crowd" of cars that show draws, I'm guessing it wasn't the Mopar version of the A body. When I sent my E mail in I asked, "Oh. So this would fit a '72 Duster"? I don't have such a car at present, just sent in that question, being a smart a$$, to see what theyd say. |
Author: | slantzilla [ Mon Jul 28, 2008 6:46 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Quote: What was your experience Dennis? Did you have a bad experience with one of these aftermarket suspension companies?
I bought an AJE kit for my Duster. It is a total piece of junk, but it looks nice. I have mocked it up in the car and run it through it's travel. It bump steers so badly the car would be undrivable.Sam DARE is a bigger piece of shyt. Bill Reilly's is the best designed and built one going. (AlterK-tion) |
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