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Unequal Torsion Bars https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30189 |
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Author: | wjajr [ Fri Jul 25, 2008 9:31 am ] |
Post subject: | Unequal Torsion Bars |
In the quest to rid handling gremlins from the Dart, I have discovered that the torsion bars differ in diameter. The right side is the standard 0.83 inches, and the drivers side is the HD size at 0.87. Will this difference cause handling problems such as darting left or right when cornering? Presently both sides of the front end are at speck hight differentials, and an alignment was performed 500 miles ago by a MOPAR friendly shop. I'm still not clear from the factory manual as to how to measure ride hight for & aft. My car looks as if the front is too high & the rear is too low. However when a level is placed bridging the front & rear sub frames under the passenger compartment, it shows level. ![]() ![]() |
Author: | Matt Cramer [ Fri Jul 25, 2008 10:06 am ] |
Post subject: | |
That's not good. I suspect it'll behave like some of those dirt track cars that steer more easily in one direction than another. |
Author: | emsvitil [ Fri Jul 25, 2008 2:14 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
You have 2 different spring rates up front. I'm not exactly sure what the problems would be, but you'll get weird stuff happening as the 2 front tire will react differently to the same input. I'm thinking side-to-side wallow. |
Author: | Dart270 [ Sat Jul 26, 2008 8:07 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Crazy. I would look for another 0.870" bar or maybe a pair of 0.890"s. You can lower the front some and it will work fine. The factory specs can be changed, as long as you have an alignment afterwards to put those specs in the right ranges. FYI, your car will like different alignment settings than stock with these newfangled radial tires (post 1978). For a street cruiser, I would shoot for +1-2 deg caster, -0.5 deg camber, and 1/16" toe in. I assume you have checked strut rod bushings for wear and strut rods for straightness? Lou |
Author: | wjajr [ Sat Jul 26, 2008 6:16 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
All new bushings in the front end. Quote: FYI, your car will like different alignment settings than stock with these newfangled radial tires (post 1978). For a street cruiser, I would shoot for +1-2 deg caster, -0.5 deg camber, and 1/16" toe in . Just to reiterate: Caster +1 to +2 deg Camber same both sides at -0.5 deg Toe in at 1/16 inch |
Author: | slantzilla [ Sat Jul 26, 2008 8:32 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Darting around sounds like a toe problem. ![]() |
Author: | Dart270 [ Sun Jul 27, 2008 8:25 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I agree that toe out will cause darting. If you are asking (reiterate) if those are right, then yes. Lou |
Author: | steponmebbbboom [ Sun Jul 27, 2008 8:56 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Quote: FYI, your car will like different alignment settings than stock with these newfangled radial tires (post 1978). For a street cruiser, I would shoot for +1-2 deg caster, -0.5 deg camber, and 1/16" toe in.
good information, thanks for posting this.
Lou |
Author: | wjajr [ Sun Jul 27, 2008 9:07 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Presently the front end is to 1967 specks which call for per FM: Caster. + 1/4 to 1 1/4 deg. Camber left, +1/4 to +1/2 deg, (+1/2 deg. preferred) Right, 0 deg. to +1/2 deg. (+1/4 deg Preferred) Toe in, 3/32 to 5/32 inch (1/8th preferred) I don't know what the front end guy dialed in. I do know that on the right side he was not able to get a full range of camber adjustment, and is just kissing one end of the range. I also agree that the toe in is not quite where it needs to be. One thing I have noticed when driving on a crowned road like we had in the sixties, the car handles a lot better than on the new flatter highways. |
Author: | dakight [ Sun Jul 27, 2008 9:16 am ] |
Post subject: | |
The reason for the slight difference in camber from side to side is to assist the car's tracking on crowned highways. If he was unable to get one side to the center of the spec I would think it would be desireable to move the other side the same amount to maintain the side to side differential of 1/4 degree. |
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