Anyone have experinece with this reprogram kit? Did it hit hard 1-2 & 2-3 shifts? How long did it take you to install? All thoughts appreciated.

My personal experience with Transgo kit was not good.It all depends on what you are looking for. Street? race? both? for basic improvement the B&M kit is less expensive and easy to install.I know that I'm not to bright so the Transgo was confusing. Instructions talked about parts that were not in the kit,and so on. All this lead to a trashed tranny in the end.
Again this was what happened to me, someone else may have had a better experience.

Wow, I've never heard of a bad experience with a TransGo kit in a Torqueflite. First time for everything, I guess!

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I would have to agree that a TransGo kit is more complex, you are really getting 3 kits in one. (TF1, TF2 & TF3)

If you want an easy to install kit, then other brands would be better.
If you want a kit that has more parts and allows for a "finer" level of adjustment, the TransGo kit is a good choice.

Thanks!...have one on the way..have only heard good stuff

They seem to like these kits on the bionic dodge (full sized Ram and Dakota) website. I put what transgo refers to a "junior kit" in my 97 Ram 1500 that I plow with when I rebuilt that trans last month, so far I like it. Like B+M and anyone else they have different levels of shift kits depending on what u want the trans to do. I also added diesel clutch packs (more discs) and kevlar bands to mine to beef it up in the durability dep't.(carrying around just the 842 lbs of dead weight on the front when NOT plowing adds alot of stress to a trans; let alone when actually pushing snow)
I had a B+M kit in my 75 Cordoba ( the basic kit not their Transpak)
but even that one gave 2 different options within that kit as to what result you wanted. With a mismatched cam/intake/carb combo on a 318 with 2.76 gears, it'd snap my neck and chirp 2nd, with a stock converter.
I realized as soon as I took it for the 1st test drive that I should have gone with the "street" instruction column rather than the "race" one for what I wanted it to do.(what the heck... I was 19 at the time ) Nowadays, the Transgo seems the way to go from talking to all the trans guys Ive talked to.

One thing you have to remember about hard, neck snapping shifts. What has really happened is the kit has caused overlap between 2 gears, and is actually applying the next gear before the last one has released, and is locking up the tires, not spinning them. Not good.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

So far so good...installation is going fine. The small drill bit was missing and the other was broken...weird....I'm on hold til tomorrow when I get a .046 bit. I've had experience with the cheetah shift plate and manual race valve body. Neither had the 1-2 overlap. You could feel the cars launch forward on the shift.

I've upgraded this /6 trans with a late model low gear set and a pair of cluth retainers from a 360 trans so it has 4 clutches in the back and 5 in the front.

My 727 in my van was rebuilt by a friend. He removed 9 springs from a (lack of a better term) plate.That plate had 12 on it. It shifts firm without a shift kit.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's

93 D350 Cummins THD Maxfuel 35mpg parts to hit 400hp+ Suncoast Cat2 A518, converter DDP Stage III injectors 62/64 HX35, 3 piece manifold, 4" Diamond Eye, Gear Venders OD. Stage I street/tow PDD head on order.

I've installed the TF-3 in my fresh 904. 2-3 shift is good but the 1-2 is horrible. On jack stands the tire actually stops when shifting from 1-2. I drove it to the end of the block and you can feel it lug when the 1-2 shifts. 2-3 is almost seemless like torbo action valvebodies I've had in the past.

Is the 1-2 shift a band adjustment or something in the valve body?

Per trans go, I reinstalled the one check ball that the instructions said to leave out. 1-2 shifts much better (most all of the binding is gone) but not as hard as I had hoped.

I tryed the TF3 and it worked "ok". Good shifts but I had a problem I couldnt fix.

When down shifting from 2nd to 1st it wouldnt shift. You had to go from N then to 1st to get it to downshift. Other then that little bug it worked fine.

Ive since gone with a Cheeta manual RVS valve body and it was a REAL change. Barks 2nd and 3rd with no binding.

Sorry to hijack this old thread but I've had some trouble with my 904 and was hoping to get some feedback.

I found the TF3 kit instructions to be very confusing and it jumps from sheet to sheet and I think I have missed some steps.
Am I supposed to follow the instructions as per TF2 and then follow the TF3 supplement sheet?

Can someone pls clarify for me?
-One check ball should be removed?
-throttle valve and 1-2 gov valve should be machined down?
-blue spring for pressure reg valve?
-hole should be drilled thru the side of the valve body where the line pressure limit ball and spring is?
-governor hole in the rear of the case should be blocked?
-rear servo internal spring should be removed?

The biggest problem I have is 1-2 binding. This has caused the frctions and the bands to wear to the point where I think they will need to be replaced.

Any feedback would be great. thanks

Cheers
K12

I have had nothing but good experience with the Transgo Kits. Of course mine were never installed on a an old trans, always in connection with a rebuild.
It was my understanding that soft smooth shifts are programmed by allowing the clutches to slip in and out during the shift. The Transgo eliminates the overlap and quickens the transition resulting in the sharper shift.
Mine was on a 340 that was driven hard and I loved it. For a mild street cruiser I may not like it. I have one in my 76 Vette with a mild 327 and again great results and shifts that are not too harsh.
Scott

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Scott
1956 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer
1980 Road Runner (Dont call it a Volare!)
2002 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
1976 Corvette Stingray

I know mine is not slanted transmission but it is exact same design that chrysler used for decades in a FWD package.

Ok, here's the annoyance: I know transmission is not slipping as I did few tests to determine if the clutch/bands are slipping and they were not. Throttle kickdown cable is set properly.
Stays in 1st too long if throttle applied in certain way little quicker acceleration (say normal) leads to engine revving then thumps forward when transmission finally upshifts to 2nd. I go around that by taking off rather gently and wait for it to shift and goes rather too soft, happens above 30km/h rather than 25km/h as it should be and I know this annoys other drivers following mine. Sorry.

I looked around for years till few days ago a guy mentioned exact description of this fault and they suggested governor issue. I wanted to hear yours.

Also I find doing that the revving with this fault actually SAPS the gas rather quick!

Cheers, Wizard