Quote:
the bearings should be set 0.015 rods/ .020mains , .
.0015 rods & .002 mains...otherwise it would be really loooose 
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| Supercharging my Slant 6 https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30240 |
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| Author: | Huffin6 [ Sun Jul 27, 2008 4:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Supercharging my Slant 6 |
Hello, first off I am new to this site, and it is a great one at that! I have a 1974 Dart Swinger, came with a slant 6, has no engine, but I am getting several slant 6's for it to play with. Have bought myself and Eaton M90 blower off of the net, will be making a new intake for the slant myself, wheather it be out of steel or aluminum I do not know yet. But I was wondering what you guys figured I should do in preparation for the engine for putting the blower on it? Initially I figured I would put new bearings in it and re ring it. Then there is the carb questions, I have to fab up an elbow for the superchager to bolt a carb to it as the intake of the charger is on the backside, so I figured while I was at it, I could get creative with the carburetion. Do to a lack of a budget and an abundance of Mikuni VM style carbs in my possesion, I figured 2 to 4 of them would work, they flow about 150cfm each. Will also be building my own headers as they are way too expensive for me...ha ha, most of you have probably figured out by now that I am young, married, and have a new little 3.5 month girl, so this slant will be built properly, but on a tight budget! Thanx in advance to all |
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| Author: | Joshie225 [ Sun Jul 27, 2008 5:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Welcome and congrats on the family! I'm no longer all that young nor are my wife and two sons. My youngest will be 6 in November. One of my projects is a draw through supercharged 360 in a '72 Dart. It has a Holley 3310-3 that's been modified for an externally referenced power valve. The power valve needs to have it's reference connected to the manifold rather than the supercharger inlet so that the mixture delivered matches engine demand and not what's happening at the blower inlet. As the Mikuni doesn't have a power valve this load sensing is impossible. I would use a vacuum secondary Holley with the power valve externally referenced as they generally have better street manners than mechanical secondary Holley and externally referencing the power valve isn't too hard. A 390 Holley would probably do best, but a 600 might not do too badly. If you can externally reference the metering rod step-up system in the Carter AFB/Edelbrock Performer carb one of the 500 CFM versions should do well. If you wanted to make a manifold to run 6 Mikun VM carbs that would be pretty cool, but supercharging would be out. |
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| Author: | johnny5 [ Sun Jul 27, 2008 7:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
It would take a while to list everything to prep the engine but a decent hipo rebuild with upgraded internal bolts and a totally redone head with all-new hardware is in order. The Dutra tech articles are pretty thorough. Those K1 rods look nice. I'd go with them, a lightened crank and some custom 8.0:1 pistons. My calculator comes up with a cfm requirement of 560 cfm for a 229 cid (.030 over) 225 with a peak rpm of 6000 and 6lbs of boost. 8lbs bumps it to 614. I'd go with a Holley 650 DP regardless to be on the safe side. |
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| Author: | terrylittlejohn [ Tue Jul 29, 2008 3:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
if your doing this on a tight budget, all you need is stock piece and some looser clearances. if i was starting again i use .080 over seal power part#244np.080 11.79 $ea. summit, open the top ring to .024gap and .018gap on second ring. when you bore the engine tell the shop you want the piston .005 clearance not the factory .001, this will help the engine when under boost and you will have it there when you feel the pull . the bearings should be set 0.0015 rods/ .002mains , only clean the block surface to true it, no cut for compression, with the head ,to start, port match and pocket port the bowl area to the inside cut under the valve seat and smooth toward the port outlet, do a good valve seat job and install a good set of spring 140lbs closed / 350lbs at .500lift, when you can afford it in the future bigger valves can be installed. also no cutting for compression just the true the surface. now with the cam, it depends on if your a street tirer smoker or a racer, on the street a 490lift with 270 dur is nice, racing i have been up to 556lift and 306dur. on the lode separation everything i have read said 112to114degs but i have used 108/110degs but i have nothing to compare it to but i have no complaints. also do dougs positive oiling tip for the oil/cam gear it works, i had to run a line from the oil pump sending unit fitting throught the block cavity because i had the 5 blot oil pump. on the cfm side more is better, i have tried those formulas and for a reference it`s a start but you might find a 750cfm range will work. |
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| Author: | Shaker223 [ Tue Jul 29, 2008 5:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: the bearings should be set 0.015 rods/ .020mains , .
.0015 rods & .002 mains...otherwise it would be really loooose
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| Author: | terrylittlejohn [ Wed Jul 30, 2008 2:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
sorry got to remember those dot`s and zero`s 
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