hey i was woundering besides a truck crank what could i do to improve the engines internal strenth so i can turn over 4000 rpm besides buying stuph from clifford

also thanks alot for all the help so far on my restoration

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

The stock bottom is quite strong. No need to seek out a truck crank. With good rod bolts (ARP) and oil delivery the bottom end of a 225 will withstand 5500 pretty easily. To make power at that engine speed though requires improvements in the cam, induction, exhaust and cylinder head.

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Joshua

yea i am trying to round up the peroformance parts now but where can i get better rods and stuph

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

Don't worry about the rods. With a sane cam choice and even very good head work you'll be fine with prepped stock rods. Read Doc's thread on the twins engine builds and his other posts on connecting rods.

As far as the other stuff...The place to spend money is on the cylinder head. eBay auction 120283899709 has some nice oversize valves, but if you don't have a good local machine shop Doug Dutra (Doc here on the board) or Mike Jeffries can both build you a good cylinder head. The valve springs and retainers are the same as a small block. The cam can be had from the Erson group buy, but I like having original cams reground at Oregon Cam Grinding. Intake manifolds can be had new from Offenhauser or Clifford, but I'm cheap so I get mine used. Clifford and Hoooker both make headers, but you can go darn fast with Dutra Duals and they last longer and fit easier than most headers. Don't go too big on the carb and don't go buy a cam without posting lots about your car so we can guide you.

A good starting point before buying any parts at all is to state a realistic performance goal. Don't just buy parts to have parts, Buy what you need to achieve your goal. You don't buy a drill bit so you can own a drill bit. You buy it to make a particular size hole.

If you want to run 14s with no nitrous or turbo it's going to be more expensive than running 16s or slower. If you want to run a little nitrous you can put an 18 second car into the 16s pretty easily.

So set a goal, tell us lots about your car and use the search function and read, read, read.

Joshua

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Joshua

well i done bought the headers and intake used clifford headers and a super six intake but i got the best machinest in north carolina for the head work and i am looking at some 10 to 1 compression pistions

i want to beat the living daylights out of the guys at school...

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six

Who is your machine shop guy? Im in North Carolina and am looking for some for top notch work to be done on a slant six head for a race slant Im building...

It's fun to blow peoples doors off with a slant. Mustangs hated my old silver duster....
have fun

Where in NC? I know of a good guy in Monore, if thats close to you.

TopHat

Well its not to far but not close either. I'll drive if the work is high quality.
Im in Wilkes county...

buster walker is my machinest and he is the best i live in orange county but i tell you what makes him so good he is a perfactionist and he has also been building engines since the musclecar era at least

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six