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| Voltage regulators https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3058 |
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| Author: | Gary [ Thu Jan 03, 2002 4:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Voltage regulators |
I'm installing a MP electronic ignition in my '64 Valiant, and want to convert to a solid state voltage regulator. I am also installing a 100 amp alternator at the same time. The catalog at the auto parts store specifies the late model style regulator for high-output alternators, but I would prefer to keep the stock looking unit, if possible, though it's not a real big deal. Has anyone gone through this?...and do you have any recommendations? lancer_41@excite.com |
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| Author: | Johnny Z [ Thu Jan 03, 2002 9:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Voltage regulators |
Gary,I installed the pertronix electronic ign in my 65 Dart,and I also installed a electronic voltage reg that I bought out of jcwhitney for $10.00. She runs like a top!!!! Good Luck Johnny Z johnfzirbel@mindspring.com |
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| Author: | JKKo [ Thu Jan 03, 2002 11:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Voltage regulators |
The 100 amp alternator is generating about 3 times more current than the original one. I recommend you to check all wiring and connectors including the charging indicator (amp-meter) before installation. I replaced my original '66 alternator with one stamped to output 65 Amperes, started with almost empty battery, went to a test drive and few kilometers away came the total blackness! The amp-meter in the dash was melt around its connectors. I guess the connectors were little loose or something. I got this instrument fixed and now the system is working well. It is a good idea to check the voltage after installation. If it goes much over 14 volts the battery is boiling its water away. JKKo Quote:
: : I'm installing a MP electronic ignition in my : '64 Valiant, and want to convert to a solid : state voltage regulator. I am also : installing a 100 amp alternator at the same : time. The catalog at the auto parts store : specifies the late model style regulator for : high-output alternators, but I would prefer : to keep the stock looking unit, if possible, : though it's not a real big deal. : : Has anyone gone through this?...and do you have : any recommendations? jari@kuparikuviot.fi |
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| Author: | Craig [ Fri Jan 04, 2002 10:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Why 100 amp???? |
Why in the world do you need a 100 amp alternator? cfield@ll.net |
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| Author: | Kairosman [ Fri Jan 04, 2002 11:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Why 100 amp???? |
Quote:
: Why in the world do you need a 100 amp : alternator? Stereo equipment -my guess at least glovert@southwestern.edu |
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| Author: | Gary [ Fri Jan 04, 2002 12:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Why 100 amp???? |
Because I have one! The stock 50 amp doesn't put out enough when driving slow with the air conditioning on high and the lights on. I could go for an 80 amp unit, but it's just one more thing to buy. Assuming I went with an 80 amp, would the old style regulator be adequate? I'm open to suggestions! lancer_41@excite.com |
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| Author: | Craig [ Fri Jan 04, 2002 12:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Why 100 amp???? |
My 1976 Valiant has a 50 from the factory with factory AC. It works OK. Yes, when the engine is idling with everything on it does not keep up. But just above idle speed it is OK again. There were some 65 amp alternators that might be wound a little different to put out better at engine idle speed. When 1975-6 A-body cars had that rare rear window defroster (the one with the wire grid on the glass) they had a factory installed 65 amp alternator and heavier wire from battery to amp gage and alternator. Quote:
: : Assuming I went with an 80 amp, would the old : style regulator be adequate? I'm open to : suggestions! Also be aware that some of the high output alternators (such as that 100 amp one) draw more field current and use a different regulator to handle the extra field current. My 1987 Dodge D150 Truck with slant 6 came from the factory with a 78 amp alternator. Oh yea, one more thing to check, I had one of those Chrysler alternators on another truck that made some whistle in the radio. I took it apart to find some bad connections on the diodes. I had to replace one diode assembly. Now that all the diodes were working again I noticed more output at idle and low engine speed. cfield@ll.net |
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| Author: | Gary [ Fri Jan 04, 2002 2:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Why 100 amp???? |
The catalog showed the later style regulator with the plug-in connector, would accomodate up to 100 amp output, so I might be wiser to go that route if I use the high-output alternator. FWIW, I'm also upgrading all the underhood and underdash wiring and replacing all connectors, except for the bulkhead which I can't find. What do you think of replacing the fusible links with modern circuit breakers? lancer_41@excite.com |
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| Author: | dschumers [ Fri Jan 04, 2002 9:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Just Crackin' Wise! |
Quote:
: There were some 65 amp alternators that might : be wound a little different to put out : better at engine idle speed. When 1975-6 : A-body cars had that rare rear window : defroster (the one with the wire grid on the : glass) they had a factory installed 65 amp : alternator and heavier wire from battery to : amp gage and alternator. The ammeter on my '76 Duster doesn't have the big wires to it. It runs off the printed circuit board. (Found this out after I tried to replace my dash with one out of a '75 Duster) I use a 100 amp 1 wire GM alternator on mine. slantzilla@excite.com |
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| Author: | Craig [ Fri Jan 04, 2002 9:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 1976 shunt amp gage - one year only |
Quote:
: The ammeter on my '76 Duster doesn't have the : big wires to it. It runs off the printed : circuit board. (Found this out after I tried : to replace my dash with one out of a '75 : Duster) : I use a 100 amp 1 wire GM alternator on mine. Yes, the 1976 model year A-bodies are unique in that they use a "shunt" type ammeter. Most of the current to and from the battery goes through the main wire in the engine compartment harness. A small amount of that current is "shunted" through the amp gage. All earlier A-bodies use a direct connected ammeter where all current from the battery goes through the amp gage. FYI, there are other small but sometime significant differences on the 1976 model A-bodies as compared to the 1975 and earlier models. I own a 1976 and just junked my 1975 of 17 years. cfield@ll.net |
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