It was a smooth breeze removing all the components, carb, and intake bolts (all but one) but i'm having a true fight with the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe removal. Those bolts are stuck and i discovered some moron at some point put metric bolts on. THey feel welded though I see none. I literally put all my weight into it and its not budging. its such a tight space I cant get any torque tools in there. Any thoughts? I did use a bolt removing spray but that does nothing. Also, what is the easiest way to get to that exhaust manifold bolt to your left, facing the head, just under the intake. There is no clearance for any of my tools to get in there. Thanks for reading

_________________

Use 1/4" drive extention with 1/2" socket (6 point deep socket if you have or can borrow)

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Exhaust manifold studs and nuts can be broken (which may happen if they are rusty or seized)... the easiest way I found yet is getting the car up on jack stands, and running a couple of extensions up from beneath the car and using a breaker bar... (and have drill and easy outs ready...)

The last manifold nut under the intake plenum, just past the exhaust stove on the right, is best caught by a 1/4" ratchet extension and a socket... when you get your new manfolds ready... take some time to die grind the exhaust manifolds casting flash in this area so you can use a 3/8" extension the next time...

-D.Idiot

The outer two ex man to in man bolts on my Super Six were frozen, too. After lots of Liquid Wrench an letting them soak for a few night, I was finally able to get some rotation. After that, I kept at it with the Liquid Wrench, and I got the bolts lose after working them back and forth. Patience is the key.

I had no trouble removing and installing the bottom center nut with my 3/8" drive 7/16" socket using a long extension and a u-joint.

A little heat from a torch works miracles. Heat the nut (if it has one) or the ear that the bolt screws into to cherry red. You can sometimes heat just one spot. Sometimes you may have to heat as much as you can get to.

Try to heat it fast, without getting the bolt red, and start turning the bolt while everything is still hot. The heat burns off crud and expands the hole so that the bolt turns out easily.

Don't force it. If it won't turn easily, let it cool and try it again. The heat/cool cycles will help eventually.

Danny

Just use Kriol and they break loose. Liquid wrench does little to help.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Some times the shops make the 2.25" pipe bend a little too soon and it is hard to get in there. However, I use the lots of silver never seize on reassembly and the super long Dorman brass exhaust nuts with lock washers. I have to use a crows foot on the back one but the front nut is open enough to use a box end wrench.

I used to burn out FelPro gaskets about every 6 months. The RemFlex gasket is very nice product and seals well, especially in this instance.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG