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Best way to start slant build.
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30658		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Rockerdude [ Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:39 pm ]
Post subject:  Best way to start slant build.
I finaly got another motor to start working on, today i pulled the head, and the pan. The motor itself is from a 69 dart, I picked up on craigslist for 50 bucks. It needs a new crank because the 6th rod bering was previously spun. The rods seem to be in good shape. What I want is a good reliable mill that gets decent gas milage, that I can drive every day, and take to the track on the weekends and blow the doors off those V8 guys. (and hopefully keep up with my dads VW bug thats in the low 12s) 8)

I think that a turbo setup would be the slickest way to do this.
Ive got a friend who does turbo setups on custom sandrails, that knows alot more than I do about the science behind the boost.

What do you guys think?
Author:  Matt Cramer [ Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:51 am ]
Post subject: 
Low 12's? Yeah, your best bet is going to be a turbo or a lot of nitrous. I'm in the middle of a turbo buildup with a Garrett GT4082, but one of the GT35s may be a bit easier to spool.
Author:  carpdar [ Thu Aug 21, 2008 10:29 am ]
Post subject: 
If your serious I'm gonna point you in the direction of the Megasquirt ECU. Read the "Megamanual" (http://www.megamanual.com/) and grasp an understanding of the required sensors and terms for using boost. At the same time you want to compliment this learning with ways to adapt other vehicle's EFI components on your Slant, which is a good portion of the topics under the Fuel Injection section of the fourm.

If I were you, i'd build the "Long Rod 225" utilizing a rebuilt Buick v6 (grand national) turbocharger (or similar model) combined with the Megasquirt v2.
Remember to read ALL of the articles on this website, especially the Engine blocks one.
Author:  Rockerdude [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 1:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sounds good. If I do go with the 7 inch rods from the 198, what pistons would I use to keep the low compression?
Author:  Doc [ Tue Sep 02, 2008 12:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
To run 12's you need to invest in some forged pistons.
Something made like the Silvolite # 1291H with a big dish, to keep the C/R reasonable.
DD
Author:  Rockerdude [ Tue Sep 02, 2008 5:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
What exactly is the difference between hyperutectic and forged pistons? :shrug:

What about ordering a set of custom ross pistons with ceramic tops, and keeping the stock rods? Can the stock rods take the beating? I would have them looked over and shot peened and balanced of corse. I also plan using ARP studs in the whole motor. 8)
Author:  wvenable [ Tue Sep 02, 2008 5:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
The hypereutectic pistons are cast. But....have 2 to 2.5 times more silicon. This makes them harder. All the better for higher temps and pressures. Not exactly made for big time spray or super charging. Thats my story and I'm stickin' to it. :D
Author:  pharmboy [ Tue Sep 02, 2008 6:17 pm ]
Post subject: 
If you wanna keep your stock rods, a good idea in addition to shot peening is to first clean them up with a grinder...basically make all the external surfaces as smooth as possible to eliminate 'stress risers' in the metal before shot peening. Also, while doing this, weigh each rod with a quality scale(as accurate as you can beg/borrow), and get them all maatched in weight as closely as possible...it'll make for a far sturdier set of rods than when the engine was assembled at the factory.
Author:  Rockerdude [ Wed Sep 03, 2008 2:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sounds good. Im getting my block hot tanked and looked through soon, do I have the head hot tanked as well?
Author:  Doc [ Wed Sep 03, 2008 2:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yes, give the shop the head and all your other parts that need cleaning.
What takes their cleaning equipment minute, will take you hours to clean.
DD
Author:  Rockerdude [ Wed Oct 01, 2008 9:28 am ]
Post subject:  Turbo cam
What cam would work well with this motor?
I plan to keep the compression arround stock, and to get the head ported and all reworked with oversized valves. I'm probobly going to run about 20lbs of boost, after i get it all dialed in.
Author:  Rockerdude [ Tue Oct 28, 2008 6:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
I've done the math and a turbo motor is way to expensive. :shock:

So Ill prolly just build a worked N/A motor that is good enough for mid 14s or so.
The block is down at the shop now getting punched .060.

Will this increase the comp. ratio?

My new goal for compression is 9.5.1-10.1. (pump gas)

How much should I have milled off the head/Block to achive this?
Author:  66aCUDA [ Tue Oct 28, 2008 6:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
Going to 60 over will not change your compression, just your CI. Have the shop clean up the deck and the head then get the head back and CC the head. Then you will know how much you need to take off the head to get your desired CR.
Frank
Author:  Shaker223 [ Tue Oct 28, 2008 7:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Going to 60 over will not change your compression, just your CI. Have the shop clean up the deck and the head then get the head back and CC the head. Then you will know how much you need to take off the head to get your desired CR.
Frank
Going to 60 over will change your Compression Ratio (increase). You're squeezing more volume into a given space.
Author:  Rockerdude [ Wed Oct 29, 2008 6:39 am ]
Post subject: 
Does any one know how much it it will increase?

I plan on using the stock style cast pistons,
and beefed up stock rods aswell.
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