Just by-pass the fuse block
Just kidding, maybe this will help http://www.mymopar.com/wiringdiagrams.htm
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| Blowing the same fuse https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30793 |
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| Author: | Karasik87 [ Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Blowing the same fuse |
The same fuse in my car keeps blowing out. It's truly amazing. Especially cause its the fuse for my brake lights. I have no idea where and what to start checking. If anyone has any ideas, I would greatly appreciate your input. |
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| Author: | Joshie225 [ Thu Aug 28, 2008 8:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
This is when wiring diagrams are indispensable. My '74 Duster blew this fuse when the backup light switch harness fell down on the exhaust. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Aug 28, 2008 9:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Check also where the wires attach to the brake light sockets. If the insulation chafes here, when you step on the brake it'll ground out and blow the fuse. Is that when the fuse blows, when you step on the brake? What car, exactly, are you having this trouble with? Have you looked at the wiring diagrams in your factory service manual? |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Thu Aug 28, 2008 9:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Also... |
I have seen where some wires can 'droop' if not stowed in the under dash hooks correctly, and can also chafe against the brake lever and short/blow a fuse, since '74's still have the under dash handle... not the 'foot pedal' model in the 76's... good luck on the hunt... after that you will know where every wire is in your car and why it goes there... -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Karasik87 [ Fri Aug 29, 2008 4:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
its a 73 scamp. ok ill start fishing around for wiring diagrams. thanks |
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| Author: | CARS [ Fri Aug 29, 2008 7:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Just by-pass the fuse block Just kidding, maybe this will help http://www.mymopar.com/wiringdiagrams.htm |
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| Author: | KBB_of_TMC [ Fri Aug 29, 2008 9:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I've seen that problem; the wiring got pinched right at the brake light switch. Also, Waytek has auto-reset breakers that plug into the position for a 1/4" fuse as a temporary kludge. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Aug 29, 2008 11:37 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
A self-resetting circuit breaker isn't an OK fix, even temporarily, for a problem like this. The fuse is blowing for a reason. If you keep on pumping heat into the faulty wiring by dint of a self-resetting breaker, the wiring's going to burn-burn-burn. Find and fix the problem. |
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| Author: | orgvcregal [ Sat Aug 30, 2008 1:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
i had that problem with the same fuse many years ago it was the wire for the number plate light the grommet on the body some how had moved and the wire got fraid and it was blowing the fuse every time i put the lights on . |
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| Author: | Ed Mullen [ Sat Aug 30, 2008 2:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Might I suggest the following: Pull the affected fuse. Hook up a continuity tester/multimeter--whatever to the fused-side of the fuse socket (i.e. the side that is not hot with the fused removed) and to ground. Turn lights/blinkers on and off, shift to reverse, apply brake, whatever, and see what elicits continuity to ground. This should narrow down your search. |
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| Author: | Karasik87 [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 7:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
could it be the wattage in my bulbs? cause i discovered the fuse will blow with the lights on and i hit the brakes? And i was talking with my grandad, and he said to start there. OH and i haven't disregarded any other advice, i just dont own a voltmeter right now and have to use the one at the shop. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun Aug 31, 2008 9:45 pm ] |
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If somebody has installed improper bulbs (such as the halogen "H1157" 50/15w bulbs instead of the correct 27/8w bulbs) then yes, it could be the bulbs, but if you've got the ordinary non-halogen bulbs in there, that's probably not it. |
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| Author: | Karasik87 [ Tue Sep 09, 2008 4:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I think I found the problem. Or another one. The bracket that holds the break light switch, seems to have been bent back. So even when I'm not pressing down on the break pedal, the bracket has been pushed so far back, that the switch still stays open. I cant seem to bend the bracket back, so I'm going to try and either extend the switch, or make like a little wart on the break pedal. I'm thinking some JB weld and a few pennies would do the trick. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Tue Sep 09, 2008 8:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Uhhh... |
Quote: the bracket has been pushed so far back, that the switch still stays open
That 'bracket' should have a bolt, or nut you can loosen and 'reset' the switch to the proper 'depth'... if the bracket, or the nut has become 'stripped' you may need to find a replacement or make a 'work around'...Keep going! -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Karasik87 [ Mon Sep 15, 2008 4:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
the bracket is tight. and theres no way i could get any tool up there to tighten it if it was loose. So, I have made basically a shim. i cut several tabs of cardboard and gorilla glued them to the switch. they extension is big enough to make contact with the pedal, and effectively close the circuit. |
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