I am going to be installing a new outer oil seal on my 8 3/4 rear while it is in the car. What is the best way to do this? I have a 2 1/2" diameter piece of steel about 12" long that I pound on with a 2# hammer until it goes in. The problem is it often cocks in the bore and becomes very difficult to drive in. I try to use a little english with the hammer to straighten it out but sometimes the seal is somewhat distorted by the time it bottoms out. At best it is never a fun project. Any ideas to make it easier?

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

I use a regular seal driver. Places like harbor freight have them for not much money. Real handy to have.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Seymour,

I take a rat tail file and smooth out the entry point on the housing where the seal goes in, then I take a flat file and taper the inner edge of the seal a little. I make sure to buy a seal that is NOT cheap. The $4 ones will distort very easily, the $10-12 ones not as easily. Used to be that Fed Mogul or Napa had the good seals, but I haven't bought one in a while.

I also smear a little permatex on the inner part of the housing where the seal bottoms out and then run my finger over that bead once the seal is in.

I use a pipe like you do. Starting it is the tricky part, but the filing helps a lot.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I use a socket for a Chevy 4X4 (a type with tabs inside the socket) thats the same diamater as the seal. It fits perfectly inside the axle to drive the seal in, so there is no chance of the seal getting cocked.