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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 2:59 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 10:01 pm
Posts: 32
Car Model:
I did a Super Six swap with some other goodies utilizing the factory kick down linkage for the same. I thought I had the lick down linkage adjusted correctly. The transmision shifted ok and downshifted when I floored it etc.

I sandwiched a thin aluminum plate between two of the stock intake gaskets to help keep my carb cooler. It raised the carb the thickness of the extra gasket and the aluminum plate, so I needed to adjust my kickdown linkage again, because I also noticed the shifting of the transmission was affected as one would expect.

When I made the adjustment to the linkage this time, I made sure it pushed the linkage ALL the way back until it stopped when the throttle was wide open. Apperantly, this was about 3/4 of an inch more travel on the linkage than I had originally set it up and about 1 inch after messing with the carb. I drove the car for a week without re-adjusting the linkage.


Once I did though, Wow, what a difference!!! It's like my motor has 30 more horsepower. It just feels way more powerful,and of course the transmission shifts better than it ever has. I do believe it is now simply working as it was intended, which is way more than I ever thought the adjustment was responsible for. I just thought I would post this to let everyone know what a critical adjustment the Mopar kickdown linkage is. I have always been a 4 speed man myself.

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1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible Super six


Last edited by jbc528 on Thu Sep 18, 2008 4:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 3:34 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
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How far from the end of the rod are you at the transmission?
I have mine right at the end after doing this mod.
It still won't kick down at light cruise unless I really stomp on it.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


Last edited by Aggressive Ted on Fri Sep 19, 2008 12:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 5:03 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 10:01 pm
Posts: 32
Car Model:
Quote:
How far from the end of the rod are you at the transmission?
I have mine right at the end after doing this mod.
It still won't kick down at light cruise unless a really stomp on it.
Mine is adjusted right out to the end, so that is not where I got the extra length needed to get the kickdown arm on the trans all the way back at full throttle. What I did was straighten out the kickdown rod itself slightly, making sure that it remained clear of any obstruction and in the correct alignment throughout it's range of motion. The long kickdown rod did and still does have a dogleg in it, but it's just not as sharp of an angle.

The kickdown rod can not be pushed back any farther than it is now when the throttle is wide open. That seems to be what my car loves, as evidence by the timing of the shifts, the passing gear kickdown, and the overall feel of the engine. It is almost always right at the peak of the torque curve now. Those Mopar engineers really did a great job of programing the transmissions, and all you have to do is adjust them right to enjoy the fruits of their work. Funny how that works.

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1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible Super six


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 7:42 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
jbc528,

Thanks for the info. on the adjustment. I have the clevis right at the end but have not rebent the dog leg in the rod yet to get a little more. Good idea, I will do that next. Almost there, but not quite. I need another 1/4" of throw. :D

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 12:40 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 8:08 pm
Posts: 616
Location: Nelson, B.C.
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Quote:
jbc528,

Thanks for the info. on the adjustment. I have the clevis right at the end but have not rebent the dog leg in the rod yet to get a little more. Good idea, I will do that next. Almost there, but not quite. I need another 1/4" of throw. :D
I think I'm on the same page as you. I've adjusted to get full KD throw without bottoming out and it still doesn't seem quite right. My shift points are weak and I have no kick-down at all.

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Image


Last edited by polara pat on Tue Sep 23, 2008 6:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 12:57 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
Sounds like we both have a little rod bending to do......

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 6:59 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 8:08 pm
Posts: 616
Location: Nelson, B.C.
Car Model:
Quote:
Sounds like we both have a little rod bending to do......
There must be a better procedure that we're not aware of. The only proper adjustment comes from the cube slider at the KD lever on mine. I did have two super six rods to start with so I bent the crap out of one to try and make things right, then went back to the untortured rod that I'm currently using. I'd like to know since I'm sure I'll be playing this game with friend's slants too.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 9:48 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Aug 17, 2007 3:30 am
Posts: 945
Location: Tiegerpoort, Pretoria, South Africa
Car Model:
Here is pic of my angles for the 4BBL but still same idea

A slightly longer kickdown rod is called for - or straighten it a bit



Image

Image

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 7:25 pm 
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Supercharged
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
jbc528,
Quote:
Mine is adjusted right out to the end, so that is not where I got the extra length needed to get the kickdown arm on the trans all the way back at full throttle. What I did was straighten out the kickdown rod itself slightly, making sure that it remained clear of any obstruction and in the correct alignment throughout it's range of motion. The long kickdown rod did and still does have a dogleg in it, but it's just not as sharp of an angle.

The kickdown rod can not be pushed back any farther than it is now when the throttle is wide open. That seems to be what my car loves, as evidence by the timing of the shifts, the passing gear kickdown, and the overall feel of the engine. It is almost always right at the peak of the torque curve now. Those Mopar engineers really did a great job of programing the transmissions, and all you have to do is adjust them right to enjoy the fruits of their work. Funny how that works.

This weekend I pulled the kickdown linkage out and put in the vise and gave it a nudge, flattening the angle of the dog leg. It gave me another 1/2" of throw and wow!, talk about shift nice. I don't think this car was ever adjusted correctly. It always lugged in 3rd, not wanting to shift down unless I was stopped. Now it shifts down on hills and take-offs are awesome!

Now I am ready for the track. It opens back up in October for test and tune.

Thanks for the tip! :D

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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