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 Post subject: Dumb oil seal question
PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 12:50 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2003 9:45 pm
Posts: 446
Car Model:
To replace the rear oil seal, do you have to remove the crankshaft like in the FSM?
Does changing just the bottom half ever work?
I'm going to replace the oil pan gasket with the engine in the car, but not sure I can do a rear oil seal.

Sorry about the dumb question. I am hoping there's a trick.

I've never worked with a crankshaft, other than replacing the harmonic balancer.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 1:05 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
Posts: 1547
Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Nope no tricks that I am aware of. If you are going to replace it, replace all of it. To replace the other half of the oil seal, pulling the crank is the way to go. :D

See this article:

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/gasket ... n-seal.htm

for the complete rundown on how to make it all seal up nicely. Courtesy of Doctor Dodge. 8)

~THOR~

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 7:03 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 6:50 pm
Posts: 446
Location: Redding, CA
Car Model:
When I did mine recently, I just pushed on one side of the seal and it rotated around and out. It installed the same way.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2008 6:57 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 8:29 pm
Posts: 797
Location: Raleigh, NC
Car Model:
I did like RDJ,

No need to take crank out. I did mine in the vehicle. Just use a wood dowel to push the upper half out til you can grab it and pull it on out, then use the dowell to push the new half in. Offset the seal joints from the ones on the aluminum clamp to block joint, as DD says in his article about seal replacing. If you have engine out, still no need to take the crank out, just turn er upside down so you can get to it and push it in. Unless you are using a rope seal, be very careful to get the lip to face the right way.

rock
'64d100


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2008 4:13 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 1:23 pm
Posts: 363
Location: Highland Park, NJ
Car Model: 87 B150, 1970 Valiant 4-door
RDJ & Rock: When you guys did yours with engine in vehicle, did you need to pull the transmission, or is this all accesible by dropping the pan?


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 Post subject: By dropping the pan
PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 5:30 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 8:29 pm
Posts: 797
Location: Raleigh, NC
Car Model:
Ah, if only were so simple....yes, by only dropping the pan, BUT!

You will find it very useful to have a small flashlight you can hold in your teeth to peer into the space. Between the flywheel or torque convertor and the end of the block is pretty limited spacewise. I find it easier to take those pans off too, specially since they are easy to do. Of course if the shield between the block and flywheel is pinched too tight to get out, then you get to work in the small space, but there is enough space.

Read Doc's article very carefully as regards those darn gasket ears up front from the timing chain pan. It can be a real pill to get those sealed. I also went to using allen head bolts for the pan because there comes a moment of truth when the pan HAS to go on and it has to go on right so the square part of pan gasket over the rear main seal aluminum hold down block mates correctly. I am one of the guys that uses RTV between the block and pan, and if you do too, then you will be holding the pan with one hand and trying to get the first bolt in with the other hand. Because the RTV is slippery your pan wants to move before you get that first bolt in. It also seemed I was doomed to drop the first bolt out of the socket. Well, no bolt loss with an allen head bolt, it just pegs onto your allen head socket adapter. I beleive in torque figures so always tighten the aluminum block with a torque wrench....that is definitely not an area to strip threads or break a bolt.

No more difficult than anything else...you just need to be ready at the moment of truth.

rock
'64d100


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 5:51 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2006 12:27 am
Posts: 536
Location: Rawson,Australia
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sixsignet wrote:
Quote:
I am hoping there's a trick.


Sneaky Pete is your MAN
provided you can get the oil pan off easily enough,and there is physical room to work,these little devices work quite well.
have done 4 or 5 rear mains "in the car" with one of these over the years. provided you are patient,and take your time,they work quite well.

regards,Rod :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 9:29 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 1:23 pm
Posts: 363
Location: Highland Park, NJ
Car Model: 87 B150, 1970 Valiant 4-door
Is there any reason why, say, 4 of the bolts on the oil pan could not be replaced with studs and nuts (for semi-hands-free alignment)?

Yeah I noticed those ears in that article. They look alot like the ones on Ford 300 I6, 200 I6, and 2.8L V6s (give me flashbacks and make me twitch a little. The rubber and cork parts never seemed to fit together like anything you read would suggest. I think I recall getting the seals and gasket parts to stay in place and stick together with RTV on the block side, temporarily installing the pan with half the bolts and no RTV on the pan side, then dropping the pan after the RTV sets up, and putting a bead of RTV on the pan, and extra dabs on the rubber/cork joints to reinstall. Fun time for whomever had to replace it after me...I get the idea that that method will not work here. I will defer to Doc's article.)

Thanks for the advice.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 10:02 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 6:50 pm
Posts: 446
Location: Redding, CA
Car Model:
I pulled the engine. But I was also changing the head gasket, so I had the head surfaced and put a fresh coat of paint on the engine.

Besides, I had never done an oil pan gasket before, and working under the car, I was worried I might not do a good job and would have to do it again.


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