I recently installed an electronic ignition conversion kit on a 71 225 ci and was wondering if the stock coil is adequate for the new system. Thanks

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"You know a car is really yours when you've touched every fastener on it." -David Freiburger

What kind of "conversion kit" did you use?

Generally you will want to match the coil to the ignition system in use. If you used something like a Chrysler electronic ignition setup, the original coil will work for awhile but you'll do better in the long run with a matched coil.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The kit I used was from Bill Rolik Enterprises on eBay. I fould them through a link in one of your posts. It's a standard Chrysler type conversion, so what kind of coil would you recommend.

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"You know a car is really yours when you've touched every fastener on it." -David Freiburger

From reading the specs, it looks like the factory point and electronic coil are only a little different. If your coil is 37 years old, I'd replace it in any case. They are wear items and can fail partially and inconveniently.

I run the Accel chrome coil; while it works fine with my Direct Connection (now Mopar Performance) conversion, it rusted very fast (weeks) and looks bad. I figured it was a fluke and so bought another that rusted just as fast. I estimated the impedence of the Accel coil to be ~1.6mH vs the factory ~2.5mH, so it favors higher RPM over lower RPM. The whole Kettering system is a compromise in any case; I read an old 1927 NACA paper on coils (Brode,et.al) and found that not much has changed with them.

My DC orange box died suddenly after 2K miles, so now I run the top-of-the-line NAPA box. I always carry a spare box, coil, and ballast.

I installed a Chrysler type electronic ignition conversion kit with a four pin ballast resistor and wanted to add an MSD Blaster 2 coil. The instructions for the coil state that a 0.8 ohm resister must be used. On the current resistor, the resistance between pins 1 and 2 is 5 ohms and pins 3 and 4 is 0.5 ohms. Is this going to be a problem with the MSD coil?

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"You know a car is really yours when you've touched every fastener on it." -David Freiburger

It's not a problem with the coil, but the ignition box may overheat...........

What's the resistance of the coil?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

How do I check the resistance of the coil?

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"You know a car is really yours when you've touched every fastener on it." -David Freiburger

I checked the MSD website and the specifications for the resistance are 0.7 ohms primary resistance and 4.5K ohms secondary resistance. I checked it myself and it had 0.8 and 5.3K.

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"You know a car is really yours when you've touched every fastener on it." -David Freiburger

Either get a 1.5 ohm coil or

Use both the .5 ohm ballast with a .8 ohm ballast in series with the coil..........

You want the total resistance of ballast(s) and coil to be 2-3 ohms

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/elect_ ... wiring.htm Mine is the top diagram. Where should the .8 ohm resistor be installed. Thanks for all your help

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"You know a car is really yours when you've touched every fastener on it." -David Freiburger

Doesn't matter.

Either before the .5 ohm or after, whatever is easier

You'll end up (12v ignition source)-ballast-ballast-coil-(ignition module)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes