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 Post subject: connecting rod ideas
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2002 11:10 am 
I've been looking for a solution to some of our rod problems and I've got an idea. Feel free to shoot it down if you feel it is unworkable...

Our slants use a 2.187 journal, bb-chevy uses a 2.2, so a 0.020 under bb-chevy bearing would be 2.180, a grind of 0.007 on the slant crank. So far, so good. Most bb-chevy rods are very short compared to our slant, but the aftermarket has a lot of 2.2 journal rods in the range of 6.8-7.1. The piston pin in a bb-chevy is a 0.990, much bigger than we use, but workable assuming custom pistons. Looking good so far, but we have a few big problems looming, namely big end width, big end 'depth' and possible block notches required.

The slant rod big end is somewhere around 1 3/16 wide. I can measure more exactly but we know it is bigger than the available 2.2 journal aftermarket rods.

Here's my idea...weld the undercut on the crank rod journals and regrind the crank to a 1.000 (or thereabouts) width and a 2.180 or 2.170 dia. This would allow a nice fillet on the rod journal, a fairly cheap bb-chevy aftermarket steel rod in a 6.8-7.1 length. Maybe the rods could be purchased semi-finished with enough big-end width to make it fit?

Anyone had a crank welded and reground (stroker) that could comment on the cost? I'd guess reducing the width would be "less scary" than building up the journal for a stroker.

This still leaves us with the problems of getting the rod through the bore (mine will be 3.5), and potential block notches required.

I might go visit a local machine shop and see if I can talk them out of a scrap bb-chevy stock length rod to play with.

Anybody tried something like this?

Comments welcome.

thanks
mark

mldingba@collins.rockwell.com


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 Post subject: Re: connecting rod ideas
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2002 11:52 am 
First of all let me say that I'm one of the biggest fans of mix-matching parts across different brands. Having said that, what is the reason for adapting the big block chevy rods to the slant six? I was under the impression that the slant rods are excellent to begin with.
According to the Clevite catalog the big block rod has a bearing width of .892 vs. 6 @ .720.
The big end rod bore is 2.325 vs. 2.313 so custom bearings may be the order of the day. The difference in pin diameter can be dealt with by Crower bushings at about $13 a piece. With all that done what have we gained? Just my $.02 worth...
motorhedfred
Quote:
:
: I've been looking for a solution to some of our
: rod problems and I've got an idea. Feel free
: to shoot it down if you feel it is
: unworkable...
:
: Our slants use a 2.187 journal, bb-chevy uses a
: 2.2, so a 0.020 under bb-chevy bearing would
: be 2.180, a grind of 0.007 on the slant
: crank. So far, so good. Most bb-chevy rods
: are very short compared to our slant, but
: the aftermarket has a lot of 2.2 journal
: rods in the range of 6.8-7.1. The piston pin
: in a bb-chevy is a 0.990, much bigger than
: we use, but workable assuming custom
: pistons. Looking good so far, but we have a
: few big problems looming, namely big end
: width, big end 'depth' and possible block
: notches required.
:
: The slant rod big end is somewhere around 1
: 3/16 wide. I can measure more exactly but we
: know it is bigger than the available 2.2
: journal aftermarket rods.
:
: Here's my idea...weld the undercut on the crank
: rod journals and regrind the crank to a
: 1.000 (or thereabouts) width and a 2.180 or
: 2.170 dia. This would allow a nice fillet on
: the rod journal, a fairly cheap bb-chevy
: aftermarket steel rod in a 6.8-7.1 length.
: Maybe the rods could be purchased
: semi-finished with enough big-end width to
: make it fit?
:
: Anyone had a crank welded and reground
: (stroker) that could comment on the cost?
: I'd guess reducing the width would be
: "less scary" than building up the
: journal for a stroker.
:
: This still leaves us with the problems of
: getting the rod through the bore (mine will
: be 3.5), and potential block notches
: required.
:
: I might go visit a local machine shop and see
: if I can talk them out of a scrap bb-chevy
: stock length rod to play with.
:
: Anybody tried something like this?
:
: Comments welcome.
:
: thanks
: mark



motorhedfred@yahoo.com


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 Post subject: full race application
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2002 12:53 pm 
Hi,

I should have said this was a full race application. I've heard of people breaking stock rods in race motors. My understanding is that the only choices we have are:
stock 6.7 (225 rod)
stock 7.0 (198 rod)
R&R Aluminum rod
Chrome Moly (Cox Bros.)
Custom (aluminum or steel)

The Au rods are $775+ and require large bore notches. The rods offered by Cox Bros. require thin but deep bore notches and are $1000-$1200+. I'd guess custom rods are probably in that price range also.

I'm building a new race motor with custom pistons and have my choice of pin dia, pin height, bore, etc. The available rods will dictate many of these parameters so I'm looking at all my options. I've seen some 6.8" 2.2" journal rods for around $480 (Probe) and some 7.1" 2.2" journal rods for around $680 (Eagle), both these are forged 4340 H-beam rods.

I'd like to stick with a steel rod that requires minimal or no block notches. Welding and regrinding the crank to look like a bb-chev journal (width and dia) might be worth looking into if the rods are much cheaper than those commonly available for the slant.

I don't know what the welding would cost or if there is something else that would prevent this from being a viable option.

thanks,
mark

mldingba@collins.rockwell.com


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2002 3:34 pm 
check this site out. <A HREF="http://www.cryopro.com">www.cryopro.com</A>
according to the price list they'll do the whole engine for $550.

snarl@net-change.com


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