OK,I posted a few days ago about moisture/foam in my valve cover.I cleaned it all out and retourqed the head studs to 75 lbs per ARP.I put a pressured tester on the radiator and pumped it up to 17 lbs and let it set for 45 min.The gauge fell to 14.5 lbs(i figured it would drop some).I checked all around the head studs,down in the lifter bores and all around the head gasket and found no traces of water.I readjusted the valves and buttoned it up.Mind you I have found no water on the dip stick.I opened up the evac valves ( I only have them for severe rpms and use the pcv around town,normal driving) and took it to work today about a 30 mile commute.I showed it no mercy on the way to get it good and hot.Got home tonight and checked the oil fill cap and saw traces of moisture.So I pulled the valve cover and found some foam in it and moisture in it also.I rechecked the dip stick and it was clean.I checked the radiator and it still seemed full.I'm using CASTRO 5W50 synthetic Oil I contact SCE about the head gasket they built for me (ICS Copper).went over the installation process and they said it should be fine.They told me to pull the head and check the gasket ($325.00).They said if I was careful I could reuse it.Problem is I got studs and that means pulling the motor!I don't know what else to check.The head has been severely ported and cut but both the head and the block were magnafluxed prior to assembly.Need some input before I pull this thing out and make arrangements to have it completely disassembled and rechecked.Anyone got any good ideas as to what I should do next?I have posted a few photos and you can see the moisture in the valve cover but nothing on the top of the head.I'm at the end of my rope with this thing.I bought all the best parts,paid the best motor man in my area and just am running out of ideas.

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SOOOOO much money spent and I keep gettin' told that I could have had a V-8

I'd be tempted to try Barr's Stop Leak..........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Do a compression test and see what the results are. Should be less than about 20 lbs between cylinders before pulling the heads. That will tell you if there is a possable head gasket problem. Thanks Ron Parker










Any More Bees Want To Get Smoked

I use ARP head studs. Why can't you remove the studs with the head on the block and then pull the head?

I would test the moisture you are accumulating in the valve cover with a glycol test kit. We use them in my shop, so I know they are available. The kit we use has a high sensitivity. You are using antifreeze? Copper head gaskets have been long known to weep and I don't think there is a solution for this.

Mitch

Couldn't this just be condensation? The weather is getting cooler out...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Im with Lou. Run it..... Just keep a weather eye on it. If its a tiny weep it may seal its self. Remember slants (even modified) are tough.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

I'm going to do a compression test after work tonight.I'm running distilled water,1qt red anti-freeze and a water additive.How much leak down on a coolant system pressure tester would be normal?I talked to SCE and they said that the gasket will seal no problem.we milled/decked the block and head to make sure they were perfectly flat and coated both sides of the gasket with copper spray.It was fine after 500 miles when I checked the tourque and reset the valves.I'm not a fan of putting bars-all in it but if that's what I have to do then that's the way it is.I'mstill open.I'm going to drain the oil tonight also and check it real close,just not seeing anything on the dip stick.Keep the ideas coming and I'll keep a open mind.What's the weight of a assembled Slant? Just in case I have to box it up and send it out,Thanks for the ideas

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SOOOOO much money spent and I keep gettin' told that I could have had a V-8

I used to get lots of condensation inside my engines in the winter. I realize you're in AZ, but still might get some over time.

If you started the motor and only ran it a short time (5-10 min), then condensation would build up and not have time to cook off.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Copper gaskets are notorious for water leaks. Do you really need to run a copper gasket? I have found Corteco head gaskets to be very relaible up to 12:1 compression and they don't leak water. If you have O rings they might restrict your gasket choices. Don't be affraid to pour in some stop leak, the metalic type that comes in coin form is supposed to be very good, sorry I don't know the trade name. Don't tear down the engine until you a least try stop leak. Racers that use copper gaskets often tolerate the kind of slow leak you apparently have but it would be a hassel on a street car.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

I have the copper gasket because it was a special made item for this motor combination.The motor was built as a nitrous motor with plans of up to a 200 shot and the gasket we had made has a stainless ring incorporated around the cylinders.Also because of the 105 overbore.The combustion chambers were matched to the block.Granted I won't us a 200 shot all the time I wanted it as an option incase I need a little more.
I'm going to do a compression test tonight,I belive that it's OK but if theres a problem I want to know before I wreck something.I'll look around for some high quality stop leak if everything checks out OK.It'll have to be comparable with the copper gasket and the radiator which is aluminum.Thanks for the help.

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SOOOOO much money spent and I keep gettin' told that I could have had a V-8

if this engine was built for n2o , were the clearences set on the high side , if so you maybe just getting a small bit of blow-by that is causing the condensation build up on the top pan, on my race engine i get a little more than what you are showing and i have no problems . if your oil is changing color to gray i would be worried.

That sure looks like condensation to me. The Valaints valve cover used to fill up with baby poo every winter. Even a little blowby makes lots of poo.

The answer is to warm the thing up really well each time you start it. Make sure your PCV works really well.

Just because you are paranoid about this does not mean the block and head are not cracked end to end.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Well I did a compression test and came up with #1-160,#2-160,#3-162,#4-170,#5-170,#6-170. The engine was stone cold when I did it.I thought they would be closer .The engine was blue printed and all the chambers were cc,d within 2% of each other.But none of them were real low.The spark plugs in #2&3 cylinders were not a golden brown as the rest of the cylinders and I had just readjusted the valves and that has me wondering a little.I have a remflex intake/exhaust gasket and don't find any vaccumme leaks.I drained the oil and found no water in it.I guess I'll put everything back together and try to find some good stop leak and run it and see what happens.Mopars at the strip is only 4 months away and I'm going to bring my car this year and run it and I don't want to have any problems.Thanks for the input

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SOOOOO much money spent and I keep gettin' told that I could have had a V-8

I am on the condensation bandwagon. The suggestion to get a glycol test kit is a good one, if you want to know for sure. Most likely, it is just condensation. Are you running a PCV valve? That, plus a good warm up will help.

160-170 is about as close as you can expect unless the valve adjustments are perfect and the engine is fully warmed up. Cold psi numbers are usually useless.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988