i have just finished converting to a supper six setup and my truck runs good but is loud. but my exhaust manifold is warpped just a little bit. My question is, should i retorque my bolts to 15-20 instead of 10? is their any other way to seal off my warpped exhuast manifold? i would take it to a machinist but i need the truck tomorrow.

thanks dash

Overly-tightening the nuts will probably not stop the leak, and it won't solve the warp, but it will greatly increase the odds that the exhaust manifold will crack. What kind of gasket did you use? Whenever you replace the manifolds, it is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and intake-to-exhaust junctions. At this point, you are looking at a do-over.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I agree with Dan 100%, the stack will need to come off.

I don't take my manifolds to a machine shop... I am known for skills with a flat file...


~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

i used NAPA's #MS-16030 gasket (it was recommended in one of the manifold articles Slant Six Exhaust Manifold Installation by Dan Stern). I drove the truck for 25 mins with no problems, it was a little loud + more power. So i guess next few days off i get i'll take it off a use a file or maybe the machinest to for a better seal.

P.S. i'm haveing a little trouble with my manual choke, how do you guys set yours up?

I haven't recommended MS-16030 or Fel-Pro or any other parts store gasket for quite awhile; looks like that article will need updating. In the meantime, do get the good gaskets linked further up this thread. Make sure to put in the good manifold-to-head and manifold-to-manifold gaskets; leaks at the central connection between intake and exhaust are very common with the parts store gaskets.

Manual chokes often don't play well with carburetors designed for automatic chokes; I set my chokes up this way.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I ordered the Aussie gaskets and had them here in NY state in a week. Now I just need the time to pull the old manifold off, and get out the broken off stud : (

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Grandpa's 1974 Dart Custom 4 door 225 auto, Aluminum Radiator, 1920 Holley.

I'm gonna try ordering the 1232 kit tommorrow very good. Say what kind of carb cleaner do you recommend? I have tried Ac Delco and Kleen Flow carb and brake cleaner and Top Choice and I'm still not happy.

P.S. thanks for the reply.

I get carb cleaner from NAPA and Carquest. Great stuff. Just make sure you get the Non-Chlorinated, that way you can kill spiders if'n you find 'em.

Anyone for fried hobo spider?

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

the formulation of carburetor cleaner has recently changed to comply with environmental regulations, the old formulation while more effective as you remember, was very toxic.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Berryman B9 ChemDip is my preferred "soup". All the carb cleaners have been made somewhat less toxic, but they are all still hideously toxic. Definitely not chemicals to be used casually; see this post.

If I get to the point where I have space and inclination to clean more than one carb, I'm buying an ultrasonic cleaner. They do a much better job, do much less damage to the parts and their surface treatments, are vastly safer, and generate much, much less toxic waste.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

thanks for the input guy's i ordered the automatic choke which will be here in a week.I'll try napa and carwuest, that chemdip sounds pretty agressive.