My son Aaron called a couple of weeks ago to tell me his slant's throttle cable snapped. I sent him a few various spares we had stashed away, and he used one to get back up and running.

A few days later, he noticed his transmission (A-904) was acting funny. He said it was hesitating to upshift from 1st gear. Also, from a dead stop, it would sometimes act like it didn't want to get moving - like his foot was on the brake at the same time he was pressing the accelerator pedal.

I told him that the transmission issue was probably related to his replacing the throttle cable and the kickdown linkage not being adjusted correctly. He tinkered with different throttle cable positions (clamped the cable at various lengths) and took it for a test drive each time.

Suddenly, he was suprised to find that on one setting the ol' slant just "came to life". Before, when he would step on the pedal, it would take a bit to get up to speed to attempt passing anyone. That time, it bolted quickly and set him back in the seat - seemingly finding some hidden power he never saw before.

When we rebuilt the 225 slant we installed a Comp Cams RV cam (264S-10), Super Six intake w/ 2bbl Carter BBD, 2-1/4" exhaust, and turbo muffler. Since we never had an opportunity to drive the car in its stock form before rebuilding the engine, we had no basis to compare the relative "seat of the pants" power. All Aaron could say is that is now had a lot more power. Based on our experience, I could never understand why everyone was so excited over their upgrade to a Super Six - I thought it was kind of doggy.

When Aaron came home this weekend from college, we made some adjustments to address the shifting problem. I had read, and we did, the following:

1. Loosen the locking nut on the end of the throttle pressure (kickdown) rod.
2. Push the throttle pressure lever on the transmission all the way forward.
3. Make sure the end of the rod is fully forward in the slotted linkage near the carburetor.
4. Tighten the locking nut.
5. Loosen the locking nut on the throttle cable hold-down clamp.
6. Make sure the engine is warmed up so the choke is off and the carb is set to curb idle position.
7. Pull backwards on the outer sheath until all the slack is removed.
8. Ease the cable forward approximately 1/4" to give a little slack.
9. Tighten the locking nut on the throttle cable clamp.
10. Since the throttle plates would not open completely at wide open throttle(it needed about 1/8" more), we pulled the extra 1/4" of slack back out of the cable and clamped it down.

After doing all of the above, the car does have more power than I have ever seen before. When you step into it, even at 65 mph, it kicks down and GOES. The only continuing issue is that it still has a bit of hesitation upshifting out of first from a dead stop. The rpm has to get too high before it shifts, or you have to stomp on it to get it to shift. I believe Aaron says that once it warms up, the shifting issue seems to lessen.

Questions: Was the kickdown rod adjustment done correctly? Would it help the shifting problem if the throttle pressure lever is locked down in a position farther back down the rod, rather than fully forward? Will that make matters worse?

Any help is appreciated,
Jerry

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There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

Sounds to me like you did everything right. Maybe the tranny needs a band adjustment?

Yup, I'm voting for band adjustments (there are two of them) and a fluid and filter change. Don't forget to drain the torque converter — there's a drain plug accessible by removing the sheetmetal shield at the bottom of the bellhousing, then rotating the engine (use the starter in short bursts) until the drain plug's at the bottom. Save yourself hassle now and later; drop by the dealer for the one and only trans pan gasket worth using: part number 4295 875AC . You will understand immediately when you compare this work of art to the floppy gasket that comes with the new filter.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for the replies, fellows. Sounds like you are saying this was just a HUGE coincidence that the transmission began to act up, right after the throttle cable needed replacing. If it's not one thing... it's another.

Can someone explain the function of the line pressure lever? In anticipation of installing a 727 transmission in the current Duster project, I purchased a nice book on the 727. Are the 904s and 727s similar enough that what I read in the book would mostly be relative to the 904?

Since Aaron is back at college, the band adjustments will have to wait until maybe next weekend, assuming he is able to come home then. Is it going to irreperably damage something if it isn't done sooner? Finally, how long should it typically take a first-timer to change the transmission filter and oil? Any special tools required?

We appreciate the help,
Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

The 727 and 904 are very similar. IIRC, the 904 is simply a smaller, less HD friendly version.

The throttle pressure lever is what tells the transmission what pressures to apply, and subsequently, when to downshift/upshift. Without going too deeply, without it hooked up, the transmission will act like you are always idling. Which is simply not the case, and will not apply enough pressure to the clutch packs, and bands to keep everything from slipping.

Slippage occurs.... well, then stuff wears out MUCH faster. If the bands are not adjusted correctly, it will eventually lead to a premature overhaul of the trans. The bands slip, creates excessive heat, and slippage. The slippage is then counteracted by the driver stepping on the pedal some more, and the whole thing snowballs until the band material (basically paper) is all gone. Keeping the bands properly adjusted will keep the maintenance interval where it should be. The same goes for the clutch packs, with the exception of the adjustments, clutch packs don't have any adjustment except for clearance, upon installation of the units.

Changing the filter doesn't take more than a few sockets, a ratchet and a screwdriver. Get a drain pan for the ATF, undo the pan (remember to drain the torque converter as well... there is a cover plate at the bottom of the bellhousing facing the engine you remove to access the drain bolt in the converter... just make sure the bolt is at the bottom) and drain the fluid. Once the pan is removed, remove the filter with the screwdriver, and then get started on the band adjustments. They should be the same as in the 727 book. Once you read how easy it is to adjust, it won't take long to accomplish. Get the bands adjusted, and reverse procedure. Make sure you re-install the drain plug for the converter as well.

It won't kill the trans to go another week (unless you already have lotsa lotsa miles on it) so long as your foot loses some weight on the accelerator .

Just be nice, and you should be fine... but get 'em done ASAP.

~THOR~

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Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
Too young to be slow, too old for high speed.

Thanks, Thor. Doesn't sound too bad. I just need to do a little preparatory reading. Dan, I'll go get the reuseable gasket as suggested.

I take it the kickdown rod adjustment we made should stay where it is for now, and reset it only after making the band adjustments???

Dan, do you have a part number for the filter at arms length, perhaps?

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

Set the kickdown so that the lever on the trans is all the way back at WOT. It's easy as that. It can be done in lieu of other adjustments.

~THOR~

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Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
Too young to be slow, too old for high speed.

What a coincidence, Im having the same prob with my trans. I talked to a good trans guy around here and he said he would not adjust the bands for me, so we are going to get another one this weekend and have it rebuilt. The one I have right now is too far gone anyway, It slips a lot, even though the kick down is adjusted right. It shifts at the same intervals, but they get weaker and weaker as the weeks roll on.

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels