Is there a front end guy in the house?

Maybe I'm just being Monkish, but something ain't right.

Note: I just installed all new rear springs, torsion bars, and bushings in the Dart.

The FM is not real clear as to just what or where points "A" & "B" are. I quote:
Measure distance from lowest point of adjusting blade to floor (Measurement "A"); and from lowest point of steering knuckle arm on same side (measurement "B") to floor. See Fig. 2... Fig. 2 is a real crappy, too dark, photocopy quality picture, with no gray tones.

Now my questions:
Is the "adjusting blade" the thick rectangular nut that the torsion bar adjusting bolt threads through, or some other spot for point "A"?

By "lowest point of steering knuckle", dose this mean bottom of lower ball joint for point "B"?

Reason for all this is I just got the heap aligned on Tuesday, and the front is back up in the air. When I took the car in I had set the ride hight per factory specifications A-B= 2 1/8", =/- 1/8 " and side to side difference max 1/8" on a level concrete floor using the points referenced in the above two questions (ball joint & adjuster nut).



So I got the car back, and this is what I have:

Spec. call for: A-B=2 1/8" +/- 1/8"

Left side: A - B = 10" - 8 7/16" = 1 9/16" low by 9/16"

Right side: 10 1/8" - 8 1/8" = 2" This is OK it's with in +/- 1/8"

Side to side: 2" - 1 9/16" = 7/16" Not OK, 5/16" over the +/-1/8"

The front end guy said he cranked the adjusting bolt in seven turns. I don't know if he was trying to get more caster by doing this or what. But from what I read in the FM, ride hight is set first, than castor/camber, and lastly toe. Note: they were 2.5 hours frigging with it.

Also, measuring from the bottom of the rocker panel under the door hinge, and just forward of the rear wheel well under both sides, all four points were equal distent (10 3/8") from the floor before the front end job. Now all four points are different hights:

Front:
Left 10 1/4" Rt. 10 3/4"

Rear:
Left 9 3/8" Rt. 9 3/4

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

The alignment shop did the same to my Swinger. I actually had my ride height much lower than stock, though. When I had it realigned, I had to specify NOT to change the ride height, and to align it where it was.

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vm

The "adjusting blade" is at the top (inboard end) of the LCA. It is the bit that the torsion bar adjuster bolt pushes against when you set the height, not the rectangular block the bolt threads through. Take your measurement from the lowest point on the adjusting blade.

Hope this helps,

Nat

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1970 four-door Dart, 225/A-904/2.45 gears. 0-60 in twenty three minutes!

Thanks, adjusting blade was not defined in all the blow-ups of the front end. If I recall, that lower end of the blade is rather hard to see.

To confirm, is the bottom of the lower ball joint the second point of measurement?

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

A big thanks to Ed for sending me a nice reproduction of Fig. 2. via electronic mail.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I have never bothered with the A-B measurement, as you say, the pictures are not to clear. I just measure from the two front bolts that hold the K member to the fame. Then I tell the alignment shop not to mess with the ride height.

Another, not to scientific method that I have used, is; If the rounded part on top of the bumper is just below my knee cap then the ride height is close enough. By the way, I am 6' 1" and my car is a 65 Dart.

Your mileage may vary...

I often stick 1-3 fingers between the fender lip and the top of the tire...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Will the same three fingers I use to measure gin for a gin & tonic work?

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Three fingers of gin!?! Whoa buddy..... I only use two

_________________
1970 four-door Dart, 225/A-904/2.45 gears. 0-60 in twenty three minutes!

As long as the fingers are cleaned with gin first...

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Kesteb:
Just few burning questions for you.

I'm 5'11" tall, what size rim & tire combo would I need to meet the "knee cap specification" you outlined previously? I like your method, no little ittie-bitty hard to see marks on a ruler to read under the dark side of a car. Oh, how do you establish the side to side tolerance of +/- 1/8 th. inch? And, is a particular type of shoe recommended for this method?

At what point on one's leg dose the rear bump'ah have to coincide with, or do collars' and cuffs' match*?

Tonque in cheek auto repair.

* A little Bond lingo here...

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Cranking the T bars will change camber, and consequentially toe. Alignment techs that don't understand Mopars set camber like this because either they don't know better, or they are lazy and take the "quick" way out. Camber and caster need to be set with the eccentrics on the uca bolts.

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