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| Budget performance https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32211 |
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| Author: | 72Duster08 [ Tue Nov 11, 2008 12:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Budget performance |
I have $600-$700 for parts for my car. I want the most power out of my car with this money. The car is pretty much stock, just a 2.5" exhaust with a cherry bomb. I have a pretty good idea of what I can get for it with this, but im open for suggestions in case someone else points out something better. If possible with your suggestion can you give me a possible horsepower increase with that part?   
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| Author: | Reed [ Tue Nov 11, 2008 12:50 pm ] |
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(1) Hei electronic ignition. THis shouldn't cost more that $50 if you use junkyard parts. There is a writeup on how to do this conversion onthis site. Do a search. Make sure you spend the time to get the timing advance dialed in right. I suggest swapping the springs and governor from your points distributor into the new distributor to keep the factory curve to begin with. (2) Good tuneup parts. Slant Six Dan has a good recommendation for the ideal plugs/cap/rotor to buy. Again, do a search on the site. (3) Upgrade to a two or four barrel carb. If what you are looking for is max power, I would suggest an Offy four barrel intake running a smaller four barrel carb. 500 CFM TOPS, smaller would be better. For almost as good performance and a little less money, the factory two barrel Super Six option is a good way to go, but getting harder to find. Don't forget the air cleaner and kickdown linkage will be different. (4) Home-brew cold air intake. This is relatively easy to do, but does have proven benefits. Make sure the heated air intake sensor and flapped is hooked up and functioning too. (5) If you have the time and money, pulling the head for a three angle valve job and porting is also a good way to improve power and performance. If you don't go to oversize valves this is actually fairly cheap to do. (6) Cam swap. It looks like you have a 70 Duster, so you have the older smaller factory cam. Stepping up to the stock 72+ cam would be a big improvement, and there are some really good aftermarket cams out there. See the "Erson Group Buy" thread. (7) Electric fan. This can be done with junkyard parts for very cheap. Again, do a search on the site. Picks up 1-2 HP at speed. (8) run the thinnest oil possible. 30 wieght, 5w-30, etc... That is it. If you do some of the work yourself and look or bargains, you could reasonably do all of this for $700 or less. But if you make more power you might want to consider upgrading your brake system. Oh yeah, get your A/C system fixed! |
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| Author: | 72Duster08 [ Tue Nov 11, 2008 1:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Its a late 71 duster, and the engine it has now was purchased used about 20 years ago, so it might have that cam? is there a way I can tell? And I wish I had the A/C unit, or even the heater lol. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Tue Nov 11, 2008 1:21 pm ] |
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You actually DO have the A/C unit and heater. You have the factory installed A/C system, so it is integral with the heating and ventilation system already in your dash. Your heater might not be working due to the vacuum for the controls being disconnected at the intake manifold. I have the compressor and brackets and evaporator and hoses you would need to reinstall the A/C in your car. Shipping to CA from WA would not be cheap, but I am happy to get you a quote if you are interested. What is the block ID number stamped on the pad behind the alternator and above the coil bracket? You might need to pull the alternator to see it. This number will tell you what kind of engine you have and what year of car it came from. If we know the year, we know the cam. It looks like your head has an air injection port block off plate installed behind the #6 exhaust runner. This would suggest that the motor is a late 70s engine. This would mean that the engine has the 72+ cam. You should also attach the breather hose between the breather on the back of your valve cover and your air cleaner housing. You should also ditch that clear plastic fuel filter and go for a metal one. At the same time, do the fuel line mod (again, search the site) for improved starting. |
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| Author: | 72Duster08 [ Tue Nov 11, 2008 1:47 pm ] |
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I didnt see where it would have been stamped. and Yeah im interested. also, would it be something I would be able to install myself? |
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| Author: | Reed [ Tue Nov 11, 2008 1:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
On the block behind the alternator and directly above the coil mounting bracket is a pad that sticks out of the side of the block. It is below the #1 spark plug and is usually hard to see and covered with grime. Take the top bolt out of the alternator and remove the belt, letting it flop over to the fender. Now find that pad and clean it off. There will be a series of numbers and letters stamped onto this pad. You would definitely be able to install the compressor, brackets, hoses, and condensor yourself. I would strongly recommend rebuilding the compressor and switching the oil and the seals so you can use the new R-134 stuff. All of the tools and supplies to do this can be bought at Autozone. I would also highly recommend you purchase a factory service manual for the car before you ebark on reinstalling the A/C system. you will need to know excactly how it is installed and how to hook it all back up. |
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| Author: | 72Duster08 [ Tue Nov 11, 2008 2:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
There are ONLY 2 numbers on the block, and there both below the exhaust manifold. 1st one --- 03256 2nd----2463430 I also have the owners manual on the car. |
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| Author: | Doc [ Tue Nov 11, 2008 2:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Uhmm... a 3 freeze plug block. (60-67) The "plot" thickens... Someone must have swapped-in the later (big hub) crank or used the small input shaft trans to get everything to fit. DD |
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| Author: | 72Duster08 [ Tue Nov 11, 2008 2:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Someone must have swapped-in the later (big hub) crank or used the small input shaft trans to get everything to fit. DD is that a good thing or a bad thing? |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Nov 11, 2008 2:49 pm ] |
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Nice car. See this thread and this one. |
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| Author: | THOR [ Tue Nov 11, 2008 5:02 pm ] |
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Quote: Uhmm... a 3 freeze plug block. (60-67) The "plot" thickens...
Someone must have swapped-in the later (big hub) crank or used the small input shaft trans to get everything to fit. DD Early block with late head... sweet. It is possible that this engine is the product of an engine rebuilder from 20+ years ago. The engine in my car (An early 80's truck engine suspected... it has the damper bolt) is kinda all pieced together like that, however, the parts are of similar vintage. I agree with Doc, we may need to get a bigger mixing spoon. ~THOR~ |
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| Author: | Reed [ Tue Nov 11, 2008 5:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
3 plug block, but it looks to be originally blue. Factory leftover? |
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| Author: | 72Duster08 [ Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:49 pm ] |
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Quote: Early block with late head... sweet. It is possible that this engine is the product of an engine rebuilder from 20+ years ago.
Thats exactly it.
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| Author: | 72Duster08 [ Tue Nov 11, 2008 7:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
In the risk of sounding stupid, what is a 3 plug block? and what is the difference between the block I have from late model one? is there something special about it? I just started my interest in slant sixes about less than a year ago, so im not to current on everything. |
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| Author: | THOR [ Tue Nov 11, 2008 8:08 pm ] |
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The "3 plug" description is towards the freeze plugs, or "core" plugs in the left side of the block. Early blocks had 3 "plugs" later blocks had 5, and were in a different orientation. Early blocks have 1 plug kinda on each end, and one more towards the head in the middle. The later 5 plug blocks have them all lined up, and equally spaced. ~THOR~ |
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