I'm rebuilding a clutch pedal setup for an a-body and was reading about removing the clutch pedal over center spring.
I'm going to be using the 3 fingered borg&beck style 10" clutch and was wondering if I still need the spring or will the hydro slave cyl with a spring at the fork have enough pressure to return the pedal to the correct height?
Or if I remove it, will I have to be the hulk to hold down the pedal?

With the Borg and Beck type pressure plate you'll want to keep the over-center spring. Diaphragm type pressure plates act much like an over-center spring themselves and don't require one at the pedal. With clutch technology being what it is and running higher than stock engine speeds I would rather have a 9.5" diaphragm clutch with a good material on the disk than run the scalloped 10" B&B cover. Spec Clutch makes such a thing for the small 273 flywheel which uses the same clutch pattern at the slant. Diaphragm covers require less force to operate and have a shorter travel. I do not like the strength loss that comes from scalloping the 10" B&B cover to fit the slant flywheel. I'd much rather spend a little more on the clutch to ensure it doesn't come apart, but if you're only going to use 4500-5000 RPM it probably doesn't matter.

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Joshua

It's a stock daily driver and the clutch was dang near free so I'll use it. Should I be worried that it will fail within say.. 3-5yrs ? Can I weld up any gussets on the outside or is that just asking for trouble? that brings up another thing, the box says it's an old borg/warner clutch pressure plate bought back in the early 90's (so the receipt in the box said), would the fiber plate being that old cause any concerns?

The clutch is fine as long as the RPM is kept low. Do not try to modify the clutch cover. My '67 Valiant's original clutch disc is fine so unless yours is damaged it should also be fine.

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Joshua