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Napa/Voltage Regulators
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32509		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  dusterguy225 [ Sat Nov 29, 2008 5:48 pm ]
Post subject:  Napa/Voltage Regulators
My last VR just went out, so I went to Napa to replace that china crap that I had. I pay $30 bucks for the Echlin one. Ok, its says Napa Echlin on it, and its also stamped "Made In USA". I get home, put it on, and the thing is sending 60+ amps into my batt! :roll: So I take it back and exchange it, only to recieve another chinese POS, that has neither "Made In USA" or Napa Echlin stamped anywhere on it. Its not even in a Napa box. So I ask the guy, "Is this the Echlin one?" He replys "we only carry Echlin" which is total BS because when I picked the last one up, he asked what brand I wanted. I got ripped $20 bucks, and now Im screwed with some chinese piece of crap, that still doesn't work! If I wanted chinese crap, I would have bought one for $10 at Auto Zone! :evil: :x

I will try to exchange it again tommorrow, and I better get the regulator and the quality I paid for!

Sorry for my rant. I thought the Echlin VR was supposed to be one of the best?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat Nov 29, 2008 6:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
The regulator will not work correctly unless it is well grounded. Is there any chance you just put the wire plug on it and left it dangling to see if it would work? Echlin stuff good, Chinese stuff bad. Chinese stuff in Echlin box bad. NAPA guy was lying to you; they carry two brands of electrical components. Echlin-branded stuff should still be first-world made. "Mileage Plus" is their "value" (junk) line made you-know-where.
Author:  dusterguy225 [ Sat Nov 29, 2008 6:35 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
The regulator will not work correctly unless it is well grounded. Is there any chance you just put the wire plug on it and left it dangling to see if it would work?
Nope. I know that it is grounded to the inner fender, so I bolted it down before I tried it. The Echlin VR had "Made In USA" stamped on it. The other one he handed me, which was not even in a box, looked different, the plug was a different color, and it made no mention of being Echlin or "Made In USA" anywhere on it.

Im thinking he handed me the one without a box, just so he could purposely screw me. If I can't get another Echlin VR with the recipt I have, just because he gave me a non Echlin one, Im am not going to be a very happy camper. I have gone through 4 chinese piece of craps (including this one), and the Echlin one. I do not ever want to buy another!
Author:  66aCUDA [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 5:46 am ]
Post subject: 
I still think you have another problem thats causing the VR to go bad/act bad.
Wish I was a couple of hours East of here(or not in a hurry when I go thru Bowling Green)
Take care,
Frank
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 7:03 am ]
Post subject: 
Yeah, regardless of VR quality, it's not normal for them to go out in such quick succession. Most likely culprit is a fault in the alternator, causing the rotor to draw too much current and burn out the regulator.
Author:  dusterguy225 [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 10:02 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Yeah, regardless of VR quality, it's not normal for them to go out in such quick succession. Most likely culprit is a fault in the alternator, causing the rotor to draw too much current and burn out the regulator.
Thats what were thinking. Im going to take it to a shop one day this week and have it tested. Where can I get a new alternator, just in case I need to? My grandpa is mad at me because I won't buy a "reman" one. :roll:

Also, what is the stock amp rating? I know there were several different ones.
Author:  Eric W [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 10:45 am ]
Post subject: 
Stock rating is around 36 amps. I would get a 50 amp and run an extra 10 guage wire with some fusable link wire from the output stud on the alternator to the stud on the starter relay. Takes a load off the stock charging wire and will make your head lights brighter. Your ammeter will no longer be accurate, but it takes some heat (literally) off the charge system.
Author:  00spy [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 11:39 am ]
Post subject: 
What would be the best size fuse, or fusable link to put on the 10ga wire.

Thanks
Dave
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 1:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
Stand your ground; you're right and your grandpa's wrong. "Remanufactured" alternators (starters, carburetors, brake master cylinders, etc.) are garbage.

You ought to be able to find at least one starter/alternator rebuilder in your local yellow pages.

Stock rating would've been about 35 to 45 amps, depending on vehicle equipment.

If you want a brand-new alternator, you can get one from Old Car Parts Northwest, but with shipping and all you're probably better to find a qualified local rebuilder.
Author:  bigslant6fan [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 2:04 pm ]
Post subject:  VR problems
Check your ground cables going to the engine also.The negitive batt.cable must go directly to the engine block. The pigtail going to the radiator support can cause problems,the nut on the support is swaged in place,and can loosen,causing a poor conention.There is also a braided ground cable connected to the rear of the engine near the valve cover,that also connects to the firewall. In the late 70s Chrysler started connecting this strap right to one of the bolts on the regulator,this improved regulator life.
Author:  oo3 [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 3:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
the thing is sending 60+ amps into my batt!
i find this confusing - ( and if i am the one confused i know i will be corrected here!) - how are we measuring this? - if the stock alt was indeed 36 amp how could this be - is it not the device that determines the load? - in this case the battery would be drawing 60 amps not being sent 60 amps if measuring was correct - and doesnt a voltage regulator regulate voltage and has a certain current capacity? - oo3
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 3:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
the thing is sending 60+ amps into my batt!
i find this confusing - ( and if i am the one confused i know i will be corrected here!) - how are we measuring this? - if the stock alt was indeed 36 amp how could this be - is it not the device that determines the load? - in this case the battery would be drawing 60 amps not being sent 60 amps if measuring was correct - and doesnt a voltage regulator regulate voltage and has a certain current capacity? - oo3
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Nov 30, 2008 3:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'm sure it wasn't measured. I think what he meant was that his ammeter pegged when he started the car with the new regulator.
Author:  bigslant6fan [ Mon Dec 01, 2008 2:58 pm ]
Post subject:  vr
I was just wondering if the battery was low on charge when he put the new regulator on?
Author:  dusterguy225 [ Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:46 am ]
Post subject: 
Sorry, I have bee without a computer for the past few days. :roll:

My ammeter (aftermarket) pegged, and stayed at 60+ amps while the car was idling. It sent even more when you revved it. It tends to "dance" while idling if the VR went bad. I am taking my alt to be checked today, and I will try to contact a rebuilder over the weekend.

My battery was not dead. I was just driving it, and I drive it every day, so I don't think it was dead. Its 3+ years old. Maybe I should get a new one.
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