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master cylinder location
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32606		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  sethmcneil [ Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:01 pm ]
Post subject:  master cylinder location
so, I'm having trouble finding a replacement! any suggestions for locating a single pot reservoir?

how many different bore/stoke versions were made?

thanks
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Thu Dec 04, 2008 4:25 am ]
Post subject: 
Rock auto has several listed. Is there any reason you want to stay with a single pot, rather then convert to a dual pot?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Dec 04, 2008 5:14 am ]
Post subject: 
Also, what model and year is your vehicle?
Author:  steponmebbbboom [ Thu Dec 04, 2008 8:21 pm ]
Post subject: 
you can find the location of the master cylinder by opening the hood, and looking just to the right of the steering shaft. :lol:

i only half-kid here. if you are a stickler for keeping your car factory correct, you are better off having your master rebuilt than exchanging it for a reman from autozone.

i would agree with the suggestion to update to a dual circuit brake system, it will add a level of safety to a very antiquated system that badly needs it. if you must get your car running in the shortest time possible, spare no expense and have your single circuit master rebuilt by a reputable company, there is no margin for error with the single circuit system. you wont be back on the road in a day, so rent a car and do it properly.
Author:  sethmcneil [ Fri Dec 05, 2008 3:00 am ]
Post subject: 
Actually; i am planning on using an old school single pot m/c as a clutch m/c in a hydraulic throw out bearing set up.

not to sound cocky or anything, but i think its a pretty friggin' rad idea to use a factory looking brake m/c to round out a custom hydraulic clutch conversion.

so its not as if i would not know where to find the m/c on my car (which already has the dual circuit conversion).

btw - thank you for being so presumptuous, sir. is that where you came up with your screen name?
Author:  sethmcneil [ Fri Dec 05, 2008 5:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
im sorry step. my btw comment was uncalled for.
Author:  steponmebbbboom [ Fri Dec 05, 2008 5:30 pm ]
Post subject: 
edit: Nice. ive removed my subtle derision. my hat is off to you.

as to the aesthetics of installing an "old school" single pot master next to a modern dual circuit master, i don't see the point. you might just as well use a clutch master from the same era. plenty of factory hydraulic clutch setups to choose from at the junkyard... you are not just limited to speed-shop custom setups here.

and what fluid would you use? unless you change the seals in either the master or slave to the same material so they are compatible, you'll be resealing one or the other before too long.

good luck~
Author:  sethmcneil [ Sun Dec 07, 2008 3:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
that is deffenitly not out of the question...

i came across a rebuild kit for a hydraulic m/c on a dodge p/u, but after not turning anything up on sweptline.org- i'm just getting myself confused...

any other ideas!?
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sun Dec 07, 2008 4:21 pm ]
Post subject:  Stock for early trucks
Quote:
not to sound cocky or anything, but i think its a pretty friggin' rad idea to use a factory looking brake m/c to round out a custom hydraulic clutch conversion.
The early-60's Dodge Trucks with the 11" clutch had this setup...

-D.idiot
Author:  rock [ Fri Dec 12, 2008 8:27 am ]
Post subject:  Seth, I may be able to help you
Seth,

I might be able to help you, but I want to be sure I understand your difficulty. Is the problem that you can't find a replacement one reservoir master cylinder? (Reason I ask is they are so common on this coast I am questioning my understanding) I had a half dozen left over and just gave away all but one after finishing my truck renovation (in parts free) but I think I kept one that I recently used.

Or is the problem that you are asking if you can use one on a hydro TOB?
And, yes, very easily. The one I saved is just removed from that use in my change from a 833OD to a 727. After having done it with and without a TOB, I prefer not using a TOB and using instead a Wilwood pull slave attached to a new type master cyl., the ones with an opaque plastic reservoir and an aluminum body. In the clutch application, as much contortioning as it takes to swap around master cylinders and not dump brake fluid on a paint job, I just wanted the modularity I could get with the newer. You do need to be sure your push rod into the master cyl has enough adjustment though.

Or, is the problem just wanting to rebuild an old style? I rebuilt mine by boring out the barrel into which the piston fits, and resleeving it by pressing in a brass sleeve fitted to spec. It can be difficult to remove every trace of pitting in the old iron barrel and you must get it all out to avoid leaks soon after redoing. If not badly pitted not a bad job to do at all and it will last for years IF you use the clutch. Just sitting around will create conditions allowing corrosion to commence.

Finally on brakes rather than your clutch question, I use a new dual port master cylinder because I added power disc brakes front and kept drum in rear, and wanted to be able to use a proportioning valve to keep my truck bed from sliding around in front of me. I ran with and without the proportioning valve in place and had uniform panic straight line braking both ways, so eventually took out the proportioning valve. Cars might need one, but my truck didn't, loaded with 3/4 ton or empty.

rock
'64d100
Author:  stonethk [ Fri Dec 12, 2008 9:03 am ]
Post subject: 
I just replaced the single reservoir (went to dual) out of my 60 valiant.
You can have it for just the shipping cost if you want.
Its ugly but was working when I pulled it.
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