I just super sixed my 1980 d-150 truck and used a Carter BBD for the upgrade. I thought the inlet fuel flare fitting off my single barrel (Holley 1920) was fitting the BBD okay, but it leaked like crazy when I started it up. I"m talking about the fitting at the end of the fuel line that threads into the carb fitting. Any suggestions out there on what is the proper flare for the this carb?

The inlet fitting on the BBD is the same as on the 1945: it is a 5/16" inverted flare. Same as on a BBS and every other carburetor used on slant-6s. If yours leaks, it's because something's wrong. Time to do the Fuel line mod!

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The brass part of the carburetor is actually the seat for the needle and seat assembly. These come in carburetor overhaul kits and are vary widely among carburetor types and manufacturers so it's not at all surprising that the Holley part did not fit the Carter carburetor.

_________________
Joshua

Okay I've got the proper flare fitting, the original flare had a burr which was probably causing the leak, haven't installed it yet, cant' seem to get home from work before dark.

Next question...the previous owner(s) removed all of the emissions components (it seems) except the PCV valve. He left the charcoal canister and vacuum amplifier in the engine compartment though. The EGR valve vacuum port was also capped off with one of those little rubber caps.

I want to at least hook up the charcoal canister. Should I attempt to get the EGR valve back in commision? I don't want to be spewing pollution, but the truck is not a daily driver so I dont' want to spend too much either.

One other comment. When I first started the engine it raced to about 3000 rpm. Would a large vacuum leak cause this or is more likely the throttle part way open? The new BBD has more ports than my old 1 bbl, so I probably have a port open that should be going to an emissions component or be capped off.

Thanks for reading.

bits of charcoal can get into some carbs off the canister. (Isuzu truck experience) and get in a bad place. I had a problem with little slivers getting on the needle valve. You can put a regular fuel filter in line to circumvent that.

If your seat fitting moved during fuel line install you may have changed your float setting. It doesn't take much.

With the hot exhaust sitting under the carb I like carefully installed Teflon tape to ensure a good seal.

Use fuel line wrenches to keep from burring things up.

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Good idea. Make sure it's hooked up correctly. See the Carter BBD operation and repair manual (pdf) for vacuum fitting identification.
Probably not. What distributor are you running?
Probably not a vacuum leak — a leak big enough to flow enough air to support 3000 rpm would render the carburetor unable to add any fuel to all that air; the engine would just not run.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

It's a stock distributor, no points, the magnetic sensor type.

With a vacuum advance?

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

yes, it has a vacuum advance