Finally got a replacement carb for my slant 6. It came off a 79 or 80 Dodge truck which has been propped up on its side for I dont know how long. The carb had the air cleaner on it the whole time.I sprayed the exterior of the carb down and as much of the inside as possible prior to installing it. I also took off the needle and seat(fuel inlet) and sprayed a half of a can of carb cleaner inside and let it sit.

The car will start and run,but I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal,otherwise the engine dies. In other words,it wont idle.

Could the float be a culprit in this case,since the truck had been sitting on its side for an undetermineable amount of time?

To rule things out,what adjustments could(should) I make to try diagnosing the no idle problem.

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72 Swinger Special Originally a 3 speed 198/6 car now has a 225 with the 3 speed

72 B200 Shorty Van 225 /6

4 other Fullsize Mopars from 65-73

Replacing one old, crusty, faulty carburetor with another old, crusty, faulty carburetor is not likely to get you anywhere you want to go. There's no way around the need to either refurbish a carburetor or buy a new one. Trying to narrow in on exactly which piece of crust is causing exactly which fault probably isn't a good use of time.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

At the very least you need to get a decent carb rebuilt kit and completely disassemble, clean, and reassmble this carb. Blow the passages out with compressed air after the rebuild.

You probably have dried out, shrunken, and cracked gaskets, clogged fuel and air passges in the carb, and possibly even a bad float. Time to rebuild.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I took the carb off and disassembled it. The floats werent stuck as I thought. I diassembled the major components as best as possible. I took out:
The Jet
The power valve
The little hexagon shaped thing with a ball underneath

I took carb cleaner and sprayed out all passages and reassembled

When I got the carb it had a solenoid on it with wires coming out of it,is that an electric idle solenoid? I hope not because I took it off thinking it may just be a part of the emissions,and tossed it(I may be able to retrieve it) Will post pic of the device if I can find the component.

I ask this because theres only 2 adjustment screws on this carb(1945 Holley) One adjustment is for the air/fuel and the other is for the fast idle(choke)

Here is a pic of the device I took off the carb,What is it and what does it do? I reinstalled it and the engine will idle,very slowly,but it does still idle.

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72 Swinger Special Originally a 3 speed 198/6 car now has a 225 with the 3 speed

72 B200 Shorty Van 225 /6

4 other Fullsize Mopars from 65-73

You got a carburetor meant for use with Lean Burn. People take these off (and throw them far, far away) when they get tired of their car or truck not running right and want to install a real carburetor and distributor.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I hear what your saying about the Lean Burn. The truck I got the carb off of wasnt equpped with the Lean Burn. It had the regular electronic ignition box,distributor and wiring harness(which I am going to go after on my next visit).

Had I of seen the lean burn box on the air cleaner,I wouldve walked away,in fact thats the first thing I looked for before I pulled the carb off the vehicle.

So basically the carb I have off this truck is junk?

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72 Swinger Special Originally a 3 speed 198/6 car now has a 225 with the 3 speed

72 B200 Shorty Van 225 /6

4 other Fullsize Mopars from 65-73

That solenoid is the idle speed solenoid. It came on cars equipped with A/C, and some early elecronic carbs. So long as the carb has no wires going into the float bowl, it is not a lean burn carb and you can use it.

BUT! You will need to install the solenoid on the carb because that solenoid also acts as the curb idle speed screw. On cars with A/C, when the A/C was turned on the solenoid would energize and push the plunger out. This had the effect of raising curb idle when the A/C was on. If your car doesn't have A/C, you can use the carb and just leave the solenoid unplugged.

Since you took the solenoid off, the carb no longer has a curb idle speed screw (as you have discovered). Reinstall the solenoid and turn the screw on the back of the solenoid to raise and lower the curb idle RPM. Problem solved!

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

You're confusing feedback carburetors used with O2 sensors (which have wires going into the carb casting for the duty cycle solenoid) with Lean Burn carburetors (which don't have wires going into the carb casting because they don't have a duty cycle solenoid, but which do have idle solenoids with throttle-closed sensors on their noses like the one shown in the picture here in this thread).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I stand corrected, that is not an A/C kicker solenoid.

However, that carb is not computer controlled, therefore he can use it and just treat the idle stop solenoid as a big curb idle screw. The carb doesn't need to be hooked up to a computer to work, even though the original application may have had a computer on it.

The carb may be a lean burn carb, but it can still be used on his non-computerized engine, right? I don't see why you couldn't use that carb since the only function of the solenoid is to send a signal to the computer and be energized under certain conditions.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I'm not so sure. I have that solenoid on my 87 b150 which had A/C.

I removed the A/C and the associated harnass. I also cleaned/repaired the engine harnass.

When I put everything back together, I had no connector for the solenoid (needless to say I was, and still may be, pretty confused).

I'm almost entirely certain that the solenoid connector was on the A/C harnass, not the engine one. All wires running to the ESA are accounted for, so I see no way for the ESA to have controlled that solenoid (it presently serves as an idle screw, and the wires are cut off).

...Also, on the Holley site, it lists that part for certain year cars and trucks with A/C.

BTW: Does anybody have a picture of what an idle screw looks like on a 1945 w/no solenoid?

There are different kinds of idle kicker solenoids. Some are used with A/C, some are used with Lean Burn.

A Lean Burn carb will mix fuel and air whether or not the vehicle's equipped with Lean Burn, but the calibration is very far away from optimal for a non-Lean-Burn setup, and there's often no ported vacuum takeoff on such a carb for distributor vacuum advance.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The carb I have must NOT be a lean burn carb because it has the provision for the vacuum advance just like the 1945 Holley I replaced.

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72 Swinger Special Originally a 3 speed 198/6 car now has a 225 with the 3 speed

72 B200 Shorty Van 225 /6

4 other Fullsize Mopars from 65-73

Try puttig the solenoid back on and setting the idle by turning the screw on the back of the solenoid. That might solve your problem.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

ok, real stupid question, and totally off topic (kind of), but can the vacuum port for the ESA vacuum modulator on a an 80's Holley 1945 not be used for the vac advance in either an EI conversion, or an installation in an older vehicle?

No. Carbs designed for use with the lean burn system do not have a "ported" vacuum source for the distributor. THe computer requires full vacuum manifold at all times. The carbs for use with standard electronic ignition and points has a vacuum port that has no vacuum at idle but full vacuum off idle. A non computerized ignition system needs a port with no vacuum at idle but vacuum at off idle.

If SPWC's carb has a port that has no vacuum with the throttle closed but vacuum with the throttle open, then he can use it with a conventional ignition system. I can't speak for how the internals of the carb will be set up, but it will at least function. Perhaps not optimally, but it will let the motor run. If the carb doesn't have a port that gets no vacuum at idle, then it can still be used but he won't have vacuum advance on his distributor, a bad thing that is not recommended.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.